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Jacking Points


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Posted

I’d like to jack up my 2019 RST Suburban to paint the brake calipers. My garages are too small to use my hydraulic floor jack.  Using it of the ~flat StaMat (crushed slate) garage apron is a bit tedious as I need to ensure that the jack pad stays on the frame jacking point, even though the jack doesn’t roll very well.  The OEM jack is the cheapest design built by the lowest bidder.  The forward jacking point doesn’t even have a pocket or recess to  keep the OEM jack from moving.  

 

Anyone see see a problem with jacking the front end by the lower control arm / shock mount, and using the owners manual forward jacking point as the location of a jack stand?  First one side and then the other?  Any other suggestions?  Couple of bottle jacks or something?

 

While on the topic, why is it unsafe to use proper jack stands to support both ends?

Posted

The lower control arm would be fine, I'd think.  I'd still use the floor jack instead of bottle jacks, especially on crushed gravel.  Maybe use a piece of 3/4" ply to roll and for a wider base.  I've never heard of it being unsafe to support both ends with properly placed jack stands.  I do it all the time with my Wrangler or anything I'm rotating tires on.

Posted

I would not use a bottle jack when trying to lift using the LCA from an extended position, as it travels through an arc, not straight up (which happens when you are lowering the truck).

Posted

I was thinking of lifting the Suburban tires off of the ground, just high enough to remove them.   Using the frame lift point, you need to go up further to get the wheel just off of the ground...  A bottle jack under the LCA, starting with the wheel on the ground, would need to rise only a couple of inches to unload the tire.  I’d use a jack stand or 4x4 blocking as a backup for the event of jack seal failure or something.  

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