Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Just now, Truckboy said:

So do you think it’s best if I just buy belsteins and put them on instead of having dealership replace them with new ranchos? 

Is the dealership willing to replace the Rancho's?

Posted
2 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Is the dealership willing to replace the Rancho's?

Not sure yet. Going to call them Monday. But like I said I did buy their protection plan for $4000 and it is suppose to cover it so they better. Not just that, I just bought the truck on Tuesday, it should be under their 1000 miles/30 days warranty still. 

Posted
15 minutes ago, Truckboy said:

Not sure yet. Going to call them Monday. But like I said I did buy their protection plan for $4000 and it is suppose to cover it so they better. Not just that, I just bought the truck on Tuesday, it should be under their 1000 miles/30 days warranty still. 

Yea, that is a lot for an extended warranty, hope that they treat you well.

 

Post how the encounter goes, and good luck!

Posted
3 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Yea, that is a lot for an extended warranty, hope that they treat you well.

 

Post how the encounter goes, and good luck!

Thank you.  Will see how it goes. 

Posted
10 minutes ago, Truckboy said:

Thank you.  Will see how it goes. 

You are very welcome.

Posted (edited)
On 7/11/2020 at 5:43 PM, JimCost2014 said:

Yea, that is a lot for an extended warranty, hope that they treat you well.

 

Post how the encounter goes, and good luck!

So dealership(Lincoln) said they couldn’t find anything wrong. Everything is in spec and no leak on the shocks. Service tec told me that’s just how the Z71 suspensions are. It’s probably just a characteristic of the Z71 shocks. I said okay, let me test drive another Z71 and see if it’ll have the same problem. So I test drove another similar truck with the service tec in with me and no issues at all. That was a clear reason/sign that there is clearly something wrong with my truck. It’s not the Z71 shocks. So at the end of all this, they pretty much said sorry we can’t fix it, nothing broken. Go to Chevy. 
 

I also called Chevy and spoke with a service consultant. Explained to him what I am experiencing and he said no, your truck should not be jumping to the side when going over bumps or potholes. So now I’m going to take it to Chevy and hope they can find the problem. 
 

Oh and they mentioned that it can because of my 22inch rims/tires that is causing it to jump. Is that true? 

Edited by Truckboy
Posted
4 hours ago, Truckboy said:

So dealership(Lincoln) said they couldn’t find anything wrong. Everything is in spec and no leak on the shocks. Service tec told me that’s just how the Z71 suspensions are. It’s probably just a characteristic of the Z71 shocks. I said okay, let me test drive another Z71 and see if it’ll have the same problem. So I test drove another similar truck with the service tec in with me and no issues at all. That was a clear reason/sign that there is clearly something wrong with my truck. It’s not the Z71 shocks. So at the end of all this, they pretty much said sorry we can’t fix it, nothing broken. Go to Chevy. 
 

I also called Chevy and spoke with a service consultant. Explained to him what I am experiencing and he said no, your truck should not be jumping to the side when going over bumps or potholes. So now I’m going to take it to Chevy and hope they can find the problem. 
 

Oh and they mentioned that it can because of my 22inch rims/tires that is causing it to jump. Is that true? 

Do  not think so on the 22"s, have them on my 18 and were on my 16, both factory wheels, both trucks LTZ Z71 models. Both rode fine.

 

Some things I would check are tire pressures, did the previous owner do any suspension mods, like adding an extra leaf, air bags, spring helpers, and so on. Any of those would really stiffen up the rear of the truck, causing what you are experiencing. 

 

Sounds like you are not off to a good start with your extended warranty, can you still get a refund for it?

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Do  not think so on the 22"s, have them on my 18 and were on my 16, both factory wheels, both trucks LTZ Z71 models. Both rode fine.

 

Some things I would check are tire pressures, did the previous owner do any suspension mods, like adding an extra leaf, air bags, spring helpers, and so on. Any of those would really stiffen up the rear of the truck, causing what you are experiencing. 

 

Sounds like you are not off to a good start with your extended warranty, can you still get a refund for it?

Tire pressure was at 45 when I first brought it in. That was the first thing they tried. Lowered it to 33-35 and still have the issue. I mean it’s probably not as bad as it is on 45psi but still having the problem. As for the previous owner, I’m not too sure. Maybe that is something I should’ve asked before buying..

And at this point I might as well keep the extended warranty because for some reason I feel like I’m gonna have some transmission/engine problems real soon Because now I am noticing a “clunk” when decelerating in low gears and coming to a stop. 
 

I’m starting to regret this purchase. $32k with issues. I should’ve just gotten a tundra.. 

Edited by Truckboy
Posted

Get bilstein 5100. REALY helped my truck but its also tire pressure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
9 hours ago, REDOO2000 said:

Get bilstein 5100. REALY helped my truck but its also tire pressure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should I even go get a second opinion from Chevy themselves or do you think it’ll just be a waste of time since there is no leak on the ranchos. Rear end is jumping and according to Chevy service consultant that is not normal and shouldn’t be happening. What the hell do I do at this point? 

Posted
9 hours ago, REDOO2000 said:

Get bilstein 5100. REALY helped my truck but its also tire pressure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also were you having the same issue as I am? Rear end jumping or swaying to the side when going over potholes and bumps? 

Posted
Also were you having the same issue as I am? Rear end jumping or swaying to the side when going over potholes and bumps? 

Yes
I wasn’t having problems with my winter rims and tires
Only the summer ones. I think it was a combination of shocks, air pressure to high and tires getting harder. NITTO Ridge Grapplers. I run 40 psi now. Only 15000 miles on tires but they suck in rain. Almost fishtailed into another car while driving on the highway


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
6 hours ago, REDOO2000 said:


Yes
I wasn’t having problems with my winter rims and tires
Only the summer ones. I think it was a combination of shocks, air pressure to high and tires getting harder. NITTO Ridge Grapplers. I run 40 psi now. Only 15000 miles on tires but they suck in rain. Almost fishtailed into another car while driving on the highway


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah dealership lowered it to 35psi but it is still jumping. Did you ever get it resolved? If so, how? I’m taking it to Chevy tomorrow and hopefully they can do a better job than Lincoln, but if they can’t either then I would like to know what other things I can do to get it fixed. I would not want to be driving it like this during winter. 

Posted

Pick-up trucks have done this forever. Mainly on rural gravel roads. We call it washboard roads and is the sign of a poor grader operator.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,305 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...