Jump to content

2004 Chevy 2500HD 6.0 Oil Cooler


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2500HD with an oil cooler. It started leaking at both the crimps, along with the gasket, leading to me losing all of the oil over a week span of sitting.
I don't do heavy towing for long distances at all, the most the truck sees is a few pallets every now and then, so I want to remove the oil cooler and just block it off.

As far as I can tell, there are two ports on the cooler. The block off plates I found all seem to be the oval one, and I'm wondering if there even is a block off for the dual? Or will the oval work?

Either OEM or aftermarket.

Thanks for your help!

Posted

Can't say on that, but I replace lines,leave it the way it was,so helpful in cooling,y,no,hydroboost lines fail too, just replace,imo

Posted

The block off plates are all the same as the oil cooler connection on the oil pan.  The truck pans came with or without cooler lines and used the same oilpan regardless.  Even the car oilpan connection and block off is the same thing.  It has to be dual ports... oil into the cooler and a return.

 

You can just block it with the oil cooler delete plate the non oil cooler engines ran and it will live forever.  Realistically unless it's really hot where you live or you work the truck super hard( you don't) its actually acting as a heater because the coolant will be warmer than the oil temperature... running it long enough the temps will stabilize and be roughly the same temperature without without it.  

 

They sell thousands of trucks and cars without the cooler lines.. it will be fine without them like all those others are.

Posted
45 minutes ago, SierraHD17 said:

The block off plates are all the same as the oil cooler connection on the oil pan.  The truck pans came with or without cooler lines and used the same oilpan regardless.  Even the car oilpan connection and block off is the same thing.  It has to be dual ports... oil into the cooler and a return.

 

You can just block it with the oil cooler delete plate the non oil cooler engines ran and it will live forever.  Realistically unless it's really hot where you live or you work the truck super hard( you don't) its actually acting as a heater because the coolant will be warmer than the oil temperature... running it long enough the temps will stabilize and be roughly the same temperature without without it.  

 

They sell thousands of trucks and cars without the cooler lines.. it will be fine without them like all those others are.


Sweet! Thank you so much. So if I went and ordered this I would be solid? Just not trying to waste anymore time with the truck down.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12577903/overview/

 

Posted
5 minutes ago, SierraHD17 said:

That's the one!  The bump in the middle is just giving the oil a path to cross from the inlet hole to the outlet hole.  


So this would use the single oval gasket too?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...