Jump to content

2015 Tahoe LTZ Random Knocking Noise in the front

Charles1223

By Charles1223
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Charles1223 Enthusiast

Charles1223

Posted
Posted

Hey everybody,
About 2 years ago I purchase a certified pre-owned 2015 Tahoe with 56K miles. I have had to take it into the show 6 times now. 2 times for Front Diff bearings and ring gear & pinion replacements. It was making noise in auto and 4H. About a year ago I took it in because of this knocking noise (video linked below). The noise is not related to speed or acceleration and I cant make it happen on command. The dealership has had my car for 3 days and didn't find anything. Anyone got any ideas? Quick notes: since taking it to the dealer I replaced both the front struts and now have 75K on it. The noise is still there randomly but doesn't seem to be effecting anything for now.
This is recorded from the front, driver side footwell. I was in 2W and I was driving straight on the highway at 70MPH. It was a flat highway (95). The noise has happened at lower speeds. It seems to happen randomly after sharp turning or heavy breaking.

 

 

SARNCAN Enthusiast

SARNCAN

Posted
Posted
Hey everybody,
About 2 years ago I purchase a certified pre-owned 2015 Tahoe with 56K miles. I have had to take it into the show 6 times now. 2 times for Front Diff bearings and ring gear & pinion replacements. It was making noise in auto and 4H. About a year ago I took it in because of this knocking noise (video linked below). The noise is not related to speed or acceleration and I cant make it happen on command. The dealership has had my car for 3 days and didn't find anything. Anyone got any ideas? Quick notes: since taking it to the dealer I replaced both the front struts and now have 75K on it. The noise is still there randomly but doesn't seem to be effecting anything for now.
This is recorded from the front, driver side footwell. I was in 2W and I was driving straight on the highway at 70MPH. It was a flat highway (95). The noise has happened at lower speeds. It seems to happen randomly after sharp turning or heavy breaking.
 
 


Does that noise come only at moving motion or even while the car is parked?
Charles1223 Enthusiast

Charles1223

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, SARNCAN said:

 


Does that noise come only at moving motion or even while the car is parked?

 

Only when I am in motion. It seems it happen more after turning with acceleration or after hard breaking.

  • 2 months later...
YukonJohn Enthusiast

YukonJohn

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Yukon XL Denali(87K) with the exact same sound. Mine is off and on, usually after braking(but sometimes during regular acceleration or driving), and almost always between 30 and 50 mph. Sounds like something is loose and swinging in the wind. It has no definite rhythm and always stops after a few seconds to a minute. Random MADNESS! I WILL FIGURE THIS OUT!

  • 3 months later...
Charles1223 Enthusiast

Charles1223

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Everyone, I have solved the issue. Not sure how the dealer missed it after having it for 3 days but I replaced the Sway Bar links in the front and the noise is now gone. They had completely worn out and it was it'll I took them off that it became apparent. The part is $9 a piece on amazon. The Dealer wanted $80 for 2 of them. Hope this help!  MOOG Chassis Products K700538 SWAY BAR LINK KIT

IMG_0711.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
YukonJohn Enthusiast

YukonJohn

Posted
Posted

Fixed! When reinstalling the throttle body boot from my air box after maintenance I discovered the bottom of the rubber boot was mashed and was not seated properly. It had been sucking air, dirt, etc for over 50k miles. It threw zero codes...WTH! The sounds were coming from inside my throttle body via the gap in the boot. 20k miles later my cam lobe on #3 wore out and exhaust valve wouldn't open. 180 compression on all cylinders except #3...130. #3 is not an AFM valve so that wasn't the issue. It was eating about 2qts every 3k mi. I got my hands on a 2019 6.2 with 20k miles for 6k and had it swapped and added a new torque converter for 3k. Running like a dream. Big expense but way cheaper than trading Yukon with a bad engine. I got the Yuk for a great price originally and still am far ahead of buying something now.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • BIGBOYS
      Doors lock and mirrors fold in while driving

      By BIGBOYS · Posted

      I have a 2015 Silverado and sometimes I can not get in to the truck. I use the key to unlock the driver door. Something is locking the truck when I unlock it, last night I left the truck open and this morning it was locked with the mirrors folded in. This happens while driving so it is now a safety issue. I reach down for the folding button and they open, then they close again.  Any advice, thank you,   Ed
    • Paul8556
      Headlight issue...

      By Paul8556 · Posted

      Did you ever find a resolution to this? my 2019 Silverado 1500 is showing the exact same headlights issues with the exact same symptoms.  would help a ton if anyone has any advice on this or better yet a known solution..
    • RyanbabZ71
      Gas Prices

      By RyanbabZ71 · Posted

      Wawa and Meijer here have ethanol free (88 & 89) I use for my mower and lawn equipment.  Its not much more than reg.  I paid $3.29 a few weeks ago.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • William Aldrich
      Bent valve in 2025 GMC Canyon Denali - Requires engine swap at 14K miles

      By William Aldrich · Posted

      NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...