Jump to content

Another AFM issue?

g2full

By g2full
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

g2full Enthusiast

g2full

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, bg1988 said:

5k is good you have 8qt

Yes. 8 always comes out and goes back in 

Slash L86 Enthusiast

Slash L86

Posted
Posted
On 11/1/2019 at 1:29 PM, g2full said:

Another update - 

 

 

Truck came back today. They did 2 lifters, the solenoid valley pan thing that controls the AFM lifters, Head Gasket, Oil Change, and Push Rod.

 

 

Was speaking with the tech and he's concerned that I also have an injector failing. He said my one fuel trim is at 18% and typically he likes to see plus or minus 5% of 0. 

 

My concerns are - injectors aren't covered under my extended warranty/powertrain. Second concern is that I just ordered my Autocal and if I have an injector issue obviously I'll need to sort that out before I get it tuned. While running in the shop it actually came down 2%(to the 18%) so maybe the truck is just un happy that everything was apart?

 

What is everyones thoughts and or suggestions at this point?

 

Lucked out with extended warranty. I think head gasket would have been around 2000.

Definitely get a range afm delete.

g2full Enthusiast

g2full

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

Range type devices only add a band aid to the potential problems and are not a true "delete".

Here is a great site explaining why a delete kit works better than tuning afm out electronically.

Just my 2 cents.

 

http://bdturnkeyengines.com/afm-dod-info

Would definitely agree that a true delete kit would be better. However time and having the truck down that long to do such a thing isn’t in the cards right now.

  • 3 years later...
Nick191847478393 New Member

Nick191847478393

Posted
Posted
On 10/27/2019 at 5:01 PM, g2full said:

So, decided to beat on my truck a little last night, which I don't do often but from time to time I do stretch its' legs a bit.

 

Threw a check engine light and could feel a misfire.

 

So, pulled codes and sure enough misfire on cylinder #7. Today I swapped plugs and wires, cleared the code and fired it back up to have the same results. Pulled codes again - cylinder #7 misfire. Swapped coil packs around and the misfire stayed on #7. 

 

Did a compression test - just a hair under 125 on cylinder #7. I didn't check the other cylinders, at this point I'm frustrated. 

 

New plug is oil soaked from a 10 mile drive. 

 

No obscure noises coming from the engine. Could this be an AFM lifter issue?

 

I do have a Zurich powertrain and will be taking it to the dealer tomorrow. Just want some opinions from the knowledge here.

 

Thanks!

 

15 Silverado 5.3 non flex fuel motor. 78k miles on it.

 


Old Thread but I am having same issue on my 2015 Silverado 1500. 118k miles CEL came on flashing when I was getting on the highway. Cyl #7 

I suspect it’s going to be failed lifter because of the stupid AFM. 
Sucks I literally bought the truck 6 months ago. Thankfully I also did the Zurich extended warranty. Truck goes into dealership tomorrow. Truck is bone stock and I baby it. Kind of disappointing 

  • Sad 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,086 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...