Jump to content

Key Fob issues

R. K.
 Share

Recommended Posts

R. K. New Member

R. K.

Posted
Posted

2015 GMC Yukon Denali 

1. Battery is fresh so that’s not the issue. 

 

Vehicle fails to recognize the fob is present. 

Doors will not lock with the fob and if locked manually, may or may not open the door. 

When I turn the vehicle off and try to lock it, the instrument lights stay lit. 

 

I see tjat there there are some comments on the 18-19 GM trucks having key fob issues but nothing on the 15. 

Any ideas? 

  • 1 year later...
SkyKing6565 New Member

SkyKing6565

Posted
Posted

I have a 18 Yukon Denali and having the same issues.  I've NEVER had a remote so unreliable on ANY vehicle I've owned, especially a GM.  20% of the time, it won't even recognize the fob when I'm INSIDE the vehicle.  The distance is maybe 20 feet to start the vehicle.  I changed out both batteries, still...the same.  There's a lot of this on the web, but no one has come up with an answer.  People have even purchased new remotes and had them reprogramed to the vehicle, still...same results.  Did you find a solution?

  • 10 months later...
Kickrocks New Member

Kickrocks

Posted
Posted
On 2/10/2021 at 12:08 PM, SkyKing6565 said:

I have a 18 Yukon Denali and having the same issues.  I've NEVER had a remote so unreliable on ANY vehicle I've owned, especially a GM.  20% of the time, it won't even recognize the fob when I'm INSIDE the vehicle.  The distance is maybe 20 feet to start the vehicle.  I changed out both batteries, still...the same.  There's a lot of this on the web, but no one has come up with an answer.  People have even purchased new remotes and had them reprogramed to the vehicle, still...same results.  Did you find a solution?

I am having this exact issue. The dealership charged me $600 to reset one of my remotes to make it start the vehicle and told me to throw away my second remote. It worked for two weeks and now I’m back to square one. I don’t want to go back and spend more money to have them “troubleshoot/guess” and charge me 150/hr. If you have found a solution please share. Thank you

Tahoe02 Enthusiast

Tahoe02

Posted
Posted

Kickrocks, I would be setting up a meeting with the Service Manager to discuss your options letting him/her know that you just spent $600 to fix the problem and it is still there. I would be professional but stern on them taking another look at the issue on their dime. He has the authority to do so. Also ask him about being told to throw your other remote away. Good luck.

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
nfisherman Enthusiast

nfisherman

Posted
Posted

I had this problem with my 2019 Yukon XL Denali. There is a service bulletin about it and there is a long thread somewhere on this forum about it. It comes down to a small antenna located, I think, above the headliner near one of the rear windows. I found the service bulletin and showed my service manager. He confirmed the problem and replaced the antenna under warranty. My remotes have worked perfectly since then. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      AFM Experience

      By diyer2 · Posted

      Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...