Dual or Single battery Stereo setup.

[jgadget]

Hey everyone.

 

Im switching up my stereo in my truck a bit. Ive got the highs dialed in and all the sound damping, and now its time to get some more bass added to the system.  

 

Currently I'm running a alpine x-a90m 900w rms x 2ohm on 2 focal 12's in a ported box under the seat.  The subs are no where near matched or tuned to the box and dont sound that great.

 

the new setup is going to be a sub thump dual 8 box tuned for 2 sundown x8 v3 subs at 800w rms a piece.  I'm using a lmi welding 2.5in seat lift.  sub amp will be a rockford t1500-bdcp at 1800-1900 rms @ 1ohm.  this amp requires a 200 amp fuse and the highs amps and dsp i'm running will probably be 100 amps together.

 

Im going to either install a mechman alternator or us alternator. 

US alternators has 2 solutions. 

 

1.  Run a second alternator thats self excited (or managed by their pcm control) to a second battery in the other slot (xs power group 48) 300a peak 200a at idle (this will consume more horsepower from the engine they say 7-10 hp.

 

the stereo would be run solely off this one battery

 

2.  Replace stock alternator and use their pcm control which over-rides the stock control and makes it constant charging and replace the stock battery with a group 48 xs power or similiar.

 

Mechman

 

1.  Replace stock alternator with either their 320 or 370 alternator plugged directly into the stock system. ( I dont know if I can use the us alternators pcm control on the mechman alternator and run this on a group 48 xs power or something similar

 

PROBLEM

I would really like to run 2 batteries in parallel but  THE PROBLEM IS THAT DAM HALL EFFECT SENSOR THAT THE GROUND WIRES RUN THROUGH.

 

I was thinking of using a distribution block to connect the batteries together via 1/0 awg then trying to sneak either 1/0 or 2/0 though the hall effect sensor then start distributing the grounds to the block / frame / alternator so that the bcm control would charge both batteries properly.

 

I think that swapping the stock alt with high output with pcm control and upgrading the battery should be enough for that size of a system, but the over kill in me would love to run dual batteries or the separate system for the audio to be safe.

 

Thanks for all your help!

[Snowcamo]

Im running two batts. 0 for the positive to the second battery. The second battery negative goes out the body to a spot next to the body mount. I also ran grounds to the alternator and frame by the control arm. Hall effect?

Also I only have .2 volt drop from front to back. You could run the negative from the start battery through the sensor into a distribution block. Then frame and body.

 

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[YukonXL04]

I used to have 2 SSA F8Ls, on a DD M2a 2k at 1 ohm. It sounded really good, I didnt have any problems with voltage. Just ran a single 2/0 to the amp.

 

Now I'm running 3 of those 8s on the same amp at .67 ohms. While driving no voltage issues, but while parked it does drop to about 13v.

[jgadget]

13 hours ago, Snowcamo said:

Im running two batts. 0 for the positive to the second battery. The second battery negative goes out the body to a spot next to the body mount. I also ran grounds to the alternator and frame by the control arm. Hall effect?

Also I only have .2 volt drop from front to back. You could run the negative from the start battery through the sensor into a distribution block. Then frame and body.

 

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the hall effect is the sensor on the negative lead.

 

both batteries wont charge properly if the second battery is grounded anywhere besides the through that sensor which is why I thought the distro block would suffice.

 

But after some math I think that one northstar or xs power and a high output 300a usa alternator should do it

[jgadget]

1 minute ago, YukonXL04 said:

I used to have 2 SSA F8Ls, on a DD M2a 2k at 1 ohm. It sounded really good, I didnt have any problems with voltage. Just ran a single 2/0 to the amp.

 

Now I'm running 3 of those 8s on the same amp at .67 ohms. While driving no voltage issues, but while parked it does drop to about 13v.

when you say it dropped to 13 are you checking this at the amp or on the dash voltmeter?

 

I wish i could fit a big amp but since i have the rear window the rear window motor takes up a lot of the space.

 

even though you arent having any problems the engine senses this drop and changes the fuel mapping and timing accordingly.

[YukonXL04]

2 minutes ago, jgadget said:

when you say it dropped to 13 are you checking this at the amp or on the dash voltmeter?

 

I wish i could fit a big amp but since i have the rear window the rear window motor takes up a lot of the space.

 

even though you arent having any problems the engine senses this drop and changes the fuel mapping and timing accordingly.

Yea just going off the dash meter. I only installed them yesterday so havent had a chance to really play with it. I knew after running at .67 I would start having voltage problems, not sure how I want to tackle that yet. Would you update me when you sort yours out? I might go the same route.

I'm thinking that 300a alt and 1 good batt will suffice

[Snowcamo]

the hall effect is the sensor on the negative lead.
 
both batteries wont charge properly if the second battery is grounded anywhere besides the through that sensor which is why I thought the distro block would suffice.
 
But after some math I think that one northstar or xs power and a high output 300a usa alternator should do it

North star under the hood. For sure. Xs batteries are said to fail due to under the hood heat. My second battery has zero changing issues as well my start batt.

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[jgadget]

Just now, YukonXL04 said:

Yea just going off the dash meter. I only installed them yesterday so havent had a chance to really play with it. I knew after running at .67 I would start having voltage problems, not sure how I want to tackle that yet. Would you update me when you sort yours out? I might go the same route.

I'm thinking that 300a alt and 1 good batt will suffice

ive been talking to the guys at us alternators and from what i understand their product is far superior to mechamn.  they make that pcm module but I only think that works on the older gm trucks.

 

I have heard of guys running a self excite voltmeter with 2 batteries and just deal with the light on the dash which i don't want to do.

 

xs power doesn't make a group 94 only 48.  but northstar does.  you can also get it much cheaper than the xs power.  i think i may go with this northstar and just see how it goes.  if i need to add the second battery I think it would be fine to do shortly afterwards, i know it best to do them them together.

 

https://www.amazon.com/NORTHSTAR-Automotive-Group-Battery-NSB-AGM94R/dp/B01NCRAAID/ref=asc_df_B01NCRAAID/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312126147596&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11070702426624063023&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004557&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-569666945431&psc=1

[jgadget]

7 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

North star under the hood. For sure. Xs batteries are said to fail due to under the hood heat. My second battery has zero changing issues as well my start batt.

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are you running dual 48's or a 94 and a 48

[Snowcamo]

are you running dual 48's or a 94 and a 48

Xs D3100 and a group 48 wally world soon to be swapped for the north star 94r.

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[jgadget]

1 minute ago, Snowcamo said:

Xs D3100 and a group 48 wally world soon to be swapped for the north star 94r.

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how did you fit the group 31 in the stock slot?

[Snowcamo]

how did you fit the group 31 in the stock slot?

Didn't. The group 48 is up front. The D3100 is wedged under the back seat. Once I get some more 0 gauge I'll probably run it up front. Once I get some more zero gauge I'll likely put the D 3100 up front on the driver side.

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[jgadget]

1 minute ago, Snowcamo said:

Didn't. The group 48 is up front. The D3100 is wedged under the back seat. Once I get some more 0 gauge I'll probably run it up front. Once I get some more zero gauge I'll likely put the D 3100 up front on the driver side.

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ah ok i got you.

 

I think I'm going to go with the northstar 94 and a 300a high output in the stock position.  the stock alternator just doesn't have it.

[Snowcamo]

ah ok i got you.
 
I think I'm going to go with the northstar 94 and a 300a high output in the stock position.  the stock alternator just doesn't have it.

How many watts are you running again?

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[jgadget]

1 minute ago, Snowcamo said:

How many watts are you running again?

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Im running a Alpine X-a70F on the front stage 70A Fuse 120rmsx4
rear speakers on on a audiocontrol ACM 4.300 bridged 150rmsx2
DSP is a alpine pxe-8050s 30 amp fuse

bass amp is rockford t1500-bdcp pushes like 1800-1900rms x 1ohm