Jump to content

Plug in


Anderc1

Recommended Posts

Posted

My 2020 2500 High Country Duramax is stored in the garage.  I do Not plug it in since the temp is above 32 in the garage.  I am Going to NH and the truck will be outside, at below what temperature do I need to plug the truck in?

Posted
1 hour ago, Anderc1 said:

My 2020 2500 High Country Duramax is stored in the garage.  I do Not plug it in since the temp is above 32 in the garage.  I am Going to NH and the truck will be outside, at below what temperature do I need to plug the truck in?

I would think it would be fine until the temp gets below 10°F.    Using a high quality synthetic oil will help as well with starting in extreme cold temperatures.

Posted

We can argue about  what temp might make it 'better', but the diesel supplement suggestion is that the heater be used below 0F. 

 

10 or 15 minutes with the elevated idle doing its thing (be sure it's enabled in the menu's) will warm both the engine and transmission nicely when cold started.  (Also gives a chance to clear the snow/ice/frost from the windows) 

 

Mine live outside, are never plugged in and get started/operated every morning.  Usually get a week or so of -5F to 0F range overnight with 10F or less daytime highs. And lots of 5 to 15F overnights. 

 

FWIW,  I'm certainly not against block heaters -- but don't think these trucks need it to be used at the temps 'here'.  

I use them regularly on other diesel equipped machines here that do get plugged in when they needed to be started below about +20 to +25F range.

 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Like redwngr said, it is a debatable issue and comes down to personal preference based on experience and facts -- I'll give both here, but these are just my opinions.

 

I live in southern Canada, have worked in temps from -70F to +108F and I plug mine in whenever the temps are below freezing.

I have always cut out the temp switches on my OEM block heater cords so that I can decide at what temp the block heater operates.

Around here, fire trucks, ambulances and standby generators are parked inside and plugged in 24/7/365 mainly because they need to go at full throttle at a moment's notice.

They are left plugged in for a few reasons and one reason is to keep the pistons expanded out as close to norm operating temp as possible to reduce piston slap/piston collapse as much as possible.

Most engine wear occurs when the engine is started up and operated cold.

 

The con's -- it is extra hassle to plug in/un-plug and the cost of electricity.

When I worked as a mechanic (HD & Auto) at a Chev dealer, I was fortunate enough to work with a 30+ year Chev mechanic -- one of the best mechanics I have ever worked with.

Along with the above opinions, he also said that, way back in the day, during engine overhauls, the most cylinder wear was where the block heater was situated.

The reasoning was that the extra heat dried the cylinder oil off in that area when the block heater was operating, causing extra wear (on startup and warmup) in that area until the splash lube could get that area properly lubricated again -- not sure if that is still an issue with synthetic oils we use now.

That was one reason that, when we had to plug in vehicles and equipment all the time in winter, we installed recirculating block heaters which worked better all around.

 

So that's what I do, but that is JMHO.

 

Your best bet is to also consider all the other valuable, experienced opinions on this great forum. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...