Jump to content

Suggestions mounting air compressor?

FirstAscent
 Share

Recommended Posts

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
Posted

Hey everyone,

 

I’m currently debating on where to mount my ARB twin air compressor.

 

The engine compartment on the duramax is already fairly tight but not out of the picture completely, I’d need to build a custom bracket.

 

Somewhere in the cab, under a seat etc

 

Or in the bed/under the bed area - I’d prefer it not to be “outside” more susceptible to the elements.

 

The end goal is I’d like to have an easy external access point for connecting a hose for whatever (filling tires etc) but I also want to use this to control rear air bags as well so I’d need an easy route to the leaf spring area.

 

I’m still investigating routes and locations but figured I’d reach out if any of you have any tips. This will be the first time installing onboard air and can’t believe I waited this long as I’m always needing air.

 

Thanks for any tips!

 

8dcef2b175fe5557b32df46b7dc51f27.plist

Limelight Enthusiast

Limelight

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, FirstAscent said:

 

Hey everyone,

 

I’m currently debating on where to mount my ARB twin air compressor.

 

The engine compartment on the duramax is already fairly tight but not out of the picture completely, I’d need to build a custom bracket.

 

Somewhere in the cab, under a seat etc

 

Or in the bed/under the bed area - I’d prefer it not to be “outside” more susceptible to the elements.

 

The end goal is I’d like to have an easy external access point for connecting a hose for whatever (filling tires etc) but I also want to use this to control rear air bags as well so I’d need an easy route to the leaf spring area.

 

I’m still investigating routes and locations but figured I’d reach out if any of you have any tips. This will be the first time installing onboard air and can’t believe I waited this long as I’m always needing air.

 

Thanks for any tips!

 

8dcef2b175fe5557b32df46b7dc51f27.plist

 

I mounted mine under the rear seat- I have the single ARB though.  

 

  • Like 1
FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I mounted mine under the rear seat- I have the single ARB though.  
 

Thanks! Yeah I saw your thread earlier. I like that spot too and looks like I can make mine fit similarly from the test fitting I did.

My only “issue” with that location is I’m not sure how I’d get the air hose routed to the exterior for the air bags. Perfect for air hose for airing up tires or something with it cooled up like you have it, but will have to see if I can find a good route from there to the exterior.

Do you use yours just for random fill ups?
Limelight Enthusiast

Limelight

Posted
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, FirstAscent said:


Thanks! Yeah I saw your thread earlier. I like that spot too and looks like I can make mine fit similarly from the test fitting I did.

My only “issue” with that location is I’m not sure how I’d get the air hose routed to the exterior for the air bags. Perfect for air hose for airing up tires or something with it cooled up like you have it, but will have to see if I can find a good route from there to the exterior.

Do you use yours just for random fill ups?

Yes. I use it for my boat and camper mostly. I used to off-road a lot as well so if I ever find myself needing to air down the ARB will be a necessity!  
I blew up 3 cheapo air compressors before I bought the ARB. LOL. 
 

It would be easy to run the airline up to the firewall and out one of the factory rubber nipples they provide for wire routing. Then you can go whoever you want outside the truck.   Not sure if that works for you but it’s a suggestion. 

Edited by Limelight
  • Like 1
blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted

I’ve got one more light project before I get to the air compressor. I’m wanting the dual ARB you have but I need to be prudent with money so I don’t know what I’m getting yet. 
 

I am actually considering mounting it on the drivers side under the driver or passenger. There’s a lot of area behind the factory steps that looks like it’d easily swallow up the compressor. 
 

I’m thinking there for a few reasons:

1 I want to have a shorter battery run and I can run 8 gauge to there pretty easily. I have the upfitter switches so I’d start from the passenger battery and go up and over the firewall. That also means a heavy duty relay of some sort. Haven’t researched it yet.

 

2 the passenger side has too many opportunities for the exhaust to interfere. I’m planning on running the output fitting to the area right next to the trailer plug. A run of the high pressure hose from the drivers side would be pretty short. 
 

3 if/when I add a tank there’s also plenty of room in the same area. 
 

these are my very preliminary thoughts. I found that area while I was under there installing rock lights. Looks like a natural fit to me. 

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@blamkin86 - Yeah makes sense, crazy times right now!

 

Thanks for your input, it's sunny today and not raining so I'm planning on trying to locate a couple potential mounting places, I'll look in the area you mentioned. These things aren't fully waterproof, they have an IP55 rating which protects against low pressure water so technically should be sufficient as long as you aren't pressure washing it. But "should" be OK where you mentioned from random spray from rain etc. I won't be driving through rivers or anything so there wouldn't be any submersion. 

 

From a wiring and output fitting location it definitely makes sense though. I just finished wiring my upfitter switches last night thanks to you! Although the rocker switch that comes with the compressor is pretty sweet haha

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 hours ago, Limelight said:

Yes. I use it for my boat and camper mostly. I used to off-road a lot as well so if I ever find myself needing to air down the ARB will be a necessity!  
I blew up 3 cheapo air compressors before I bought the ARB. LOL. 
 

It would be easy to run the airline up to the firewall and out one of the factory rubber nipples they provide for wire routing. Then you can go whoever you want outside the truck.   Not sure if that works for you but it’s a suggestion. 

I need to take a look closer at the firewall, this could potentially work if I can find a good route to get the air line outside. The area I used to run the upfitter switches is already pretty tight, I can't imagine getting a 1/4" hose through the same area though. 

 

Inside the cab or the engine bay would be my preference for mounting though to keep it clean and away from the elements. 

kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

If you mount it under the passenger seat inside the cab there is an access plug you can drill through.

I used a uni-bit and sealtite conduit from Lowe’s.

This was 1/2 inch but 3/4 would fit.

ba1f7e36456c579940f95a1f1900b02e.jpg

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If you mount it under the passenger seat inside the cab there is an access plug you can drill through.

I used a uni-bit and sealtite conduit from Lowe’s.

This was 1/2 inch but 3/4 would fit.

ba1f7e36456c579940f95a1f1900b02e.jpg


Thanks! I just happen to be out looking for locations right now and looked, so you just drilled this out to suit your needs?

0a0d2b11cf8686b6a96cd0ae69f87805.plist
@Limelight - what path did you choose for your wires? Did you run them under the carpet up front and then through the firewall?
kf9yr Enthusiast

kf9yr

Posted
Posted

Yes, I removed the rear seat on driver’s side, pulled up the door sill and carpet and put a 2x4 under the carpet so the drill doesn’t tangle the carpet.

I drilled through the round fitting and installed the 90 Sealtite fitting.

In my case I ran coax through it for a radio but an air hose would work the same.

While I had the carpet up I ran a power wire under the carpet and along the rear door sill, driver’s sill and up the driver’s kick panel to the upfitter switch.

  • Like 1
FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted

@kfy9r thanks! That’s very helpful!


Ok everyone I now have potential plan #1 test fitted:

1. Utilize the access hole noted by @kyf9r on the PASSENGER side to run air hose to exterior

2. Run power and switch harnesses under carpet along door sill to upfitter switches and continue power wires through firewall to battery.

3. I have the standard under seat storage, I didn’t want the larger storage this time (had it on my 2019 1500) but still think I have a good spot.

I’ll need to create a bracket that raises the mounting platform 1” off the floor (thanks user manual for the test fit) this looks like I’ll have proper clearance and the seat still lifts up and down.

4. I’d have to relocate the spare tire levers as they were in the way for this option.

Test fitting different heights for a mounting bracket
17b82e70186602cd6b168c3ed0d2d031.jpg

Compressor in proposed place
1121df68c89a1e5698f327448a5fe79e.jpg

Seat down, good clearance
6e31841fa6270d296675114cfb9018ed.jpg

blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted

Looks like a good choice. I permanently carry a huge ice fishing tent in front of the rear seats so that spot is out for me. I need the storage.

 

now I’m worried about water because I definitely go through shallow creek and river crossings several times a year. 

  • Like 1
blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted

Had anyone looked at the area between the (diesel) air filter and passenger fender???

 

Looks like if you move the horns, there may be enough room there. If so, that seems like a great place to mount this ARB compressor. 

 

I’ll go look at the dimensions. 

  • Like 1
FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just now, blamkin86 said:

Had anyone looked at the area between the (diesel) air filter and passenger fender???

 

Looks like if you move the horns, there may be enough room there. If so, that seems like a great place to mount this ARB compressor. 

 

I’ll go look at the dimensions. 

Actually, I did notice that also! the horns would need to be relocated but the problem, at least with my specific kit, is there wasn't enough room in the opening to squeeze the compressor down there. Looks like plenty of room if it were in place, but not enough room to get it down there, the opening isn't large enough :( 

blamkin86 Enthusiast

blamkin86

Posted
Posted
38 minutes ago, FirstAscent said:

Actually, I did notice that also! the horns would need to be relocated but the problem, at least with my specific kit, is there wasn't enough room in the opening to squeeze the compressor down there. Looks like plenty of room if it were in place, but not enough room to get it down there, the opening isn't large enough :( 

Hmm....

 

I wonder how hard it is to get that fender off there...

 

(only partially kidding.)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...