Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
The glare you would see is similar to what’s happening in this pick. 
 
 
F83F5A02-84A5-416A-9611-82113C7E5D95.thumb.jpeg.7fd5ec59868cd27d0877b85d62f65881.jpeg
Um, that's a Jeep

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 hours ago, Transient said:

Um, that's a Jeep

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Very observant, yes it it. It is just an illustration of the glare you get when you mount lights too close to your hood. It is even more pronounced when you use cheap lights with crappy optics.  It’s not always about light output, where that light goes is important. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Why would you spend $150 for these mounts when you can get the brackets, lights and the harness for $100 from Rough Country?

 

I know these only fit the Silverado,  RC is in the process of making a set for GMC. 

 

 

 

 

https://www.roughcountry.com/chevy-silverado-led-lower-windshield-kit-70840.html?find=2019-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-739956

 

Chevy 2-inch LED Lower Windshield Ditch Kit (19-21 Silverado)

Edited by BowtieSquatch
Posted
7 hours ago, BowtieSquatch said:

Why would you spend $150 for these mounts when you can get the brackets, lights and the harness for $100 from Rough Country?

 

I know these only fit the Silverado,  RC is in the process of making a set for GMC. 

 

 

 

 

https://www.roughcountry.com/chevy-silverado-led-lower-windshield-kit-70840.html?find=2019-chevy-silverado-1500-4wd-739956

 

Chevy 2-inch LED Lower Windshield Ditch Kit (19-21 Silverado)

I think its a bit of “you get what you pay for” scenario.  The mounts don’t look super durable and the lights look cheap.  There isn’t even a description of the lights or their specs on RC’s website.

Posted
Just now, Descartian said:

I think its a bit of “you get what you pay for” scenario.  The mounts don’t look super durable and the lights look cheap.  There isn’t even a description of the lights or their specs on RC’s website.

I rock them, haven't had any issues with them. they do give you specs when you pick which light you want as they have like 5 different options. 

Posted

I’m not going to try and hide the fact I’m a lighting snob. For me I’m a big fan of Baja Designs lighting products. 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Descartian said:

I’m not going to try and hide the fact I’m a lighting snob. For me I’m a big fan of Baja Designs lighting products. 

Me too.  I like VisionX stuff myself.

Posted
I’m not going to try and hide the fact I’m a lighting snob. For me I’m a big fan of Baja Designs lighting products. 
The big difference for me between Baja Designs and Rough Country is that Baja Designs posts on their website what the amperage of the lights are. You need to call Rough Country to get the info. And, Baja Designs goes out of their way to help customers with custom builds, such as making custom order wire harnesses. Rough Country is a take it or leave it company.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 hours ago, Transient said:

The big difference for me between Baja Designs and Rough Country is that Baja Designs posts on their website what the amperage of the lights are. You need to call Rough Country to get the info. And, Baja Designs goes out of their way to help customers with custom builds, such as making custom order wire harnesses. Rough Country is a take it or leave it company.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

There’s a bigger difference than it’s stayed amperage. 
 

LED’s are not like regular filament bulbs where wattage / amperage has a direct correlation to light output or candela or lumens. There are a lot of different technologies for LED’s and some are much more efficient at producing light and some put out exponentially more lights than others. 
 

The RC bars are not in the same class of lighting producers. As of now I’d rate the top 3 major makers as:

1. Baja Designs

2. Rigid Industries

3. Vision X

 

I would rate RC somewhere in the cheap Chinese  class of light bars. They just rebrand cheap Chinese bars/lights and charge a premium fir their name. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Now all that said in certain applications I use the cheaper bars. On my DD work truck (2005 2500HD, Duranax) I do not need good lighting, just something that throws out a blast of light. For my other trucks that I need or want hood lighting on I use or have used Baja Designs and before BD, Rigid lights.  

Posted



There’s a bigger difference than it’s stayed amperage. 
 
LED’s are not like regular filament bulbs where wattage / amperage has a direct correlation to light output or candela or lumens. There are a lot of different technologies for LED’s and some are much more efficient at producing light and some put out exponentially more lights than others. 
 
The RC bars are not in the same class of lighting producers. As of now I’d rate the top 3 major makers as:
1. Baja Designs
2. Rigid Industries
3. Vision X
 
I would rate RC somewhere in the cheap Chinese  class of light bars. They just rebrand cheap Chinese bars/lights and charge a premium fir their name. 


Agreed, but most people won't recognize the differences. They only focus in onto what's pertinent to them. My comment wasn't focused on light output ratings in amperage, but that is a solid point you've made. I was referring to the ability to connect to certain switches, such as the GM Upfitter switches.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

So, I did a thing yesterday. I called my dealer and ordered the Baja Designs a-pillar lights available through GM Accessories. I was told they're SPO, in Michigan, and should arrive in 7-10 days. I'm wiring directly to GM Upfitter switch #2. I'm not bothering with the GM Accessories wire harness. I have an idea what harnesses I'll need to order from Baja Designs to pull this off, but want to receive the lights before I order the harnesses in order to make sure I don't buy something I don't need.

Next up, I'm looking for a good lightbar for the bumper with a similar setup to what Rough Country offers, but better quality. I wonder if Baja Designs 10" lightbars will fit in the Rough Country brackets? This is planned for upfitter switch #3.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...