5.3 ticking noise

Alonzo Nunez · May 28, 2020

Ok I have 2011 GMC Sierra that has developed a ticking noise. I also have a misfire p0308 in cylinder 8 with p0300 in the history of the obd2 scan. (This tick does not happen in idle)This tick only happens when reaching 2500rpm and above and and willl increase tick speed with rpm but does not get louder only faster. And it does sound like it’s is on the passenger side coming from cylinder 8
1.i have replaced spark plug

2.i have swapped coil pack from one side to the other along with wire (Misfire still cylinder

3. I have stethoscoped the injectors they all sound the same and are functioning I have even unplugged the injector and wire and ran it up to 2500 rpm still ticking

4. I have changed oil 5w30 ac Delco filter and im currently running mmo with it.
• I do not see any sign of exhaust leak as far as bolts or black carbon around manifold
•all my vacuum lines seem intact and good

• MY VALVE COVER GASKET DOES SEEM IT HAD OIL CRUD AROUND THE EDGES

—my next step is to run sea foam through the vacuum line to see if I have carbon causing a sticky valve or something

I believe I either have a Hydraulic lifter issue cylinder 8 NON-afm cylinder smacking my cam

or a spun bearing ,

weak or broken valve spring , maybe a rocker Arm loose, bent pushrod but I honestly don’t know when it comes to internals (THIS ONLY HAPPENS 2500rpm and ABOVE) any help thanks

sefiroxx · May 30, 2020

I believe I either have a Hydraulic lifter issue cylinder 8 NON-afm cylinder smacking my cam
or a spun bearing ,
weak or broken valve spring , maybe a rocker Arm loose, bent pushrod but I honestly don’t know when it comes to internals (THIS ONLY HAPPENS 2500rpm and ABOVE) any help thanks

Yes, yes, yes.

Time to pull the valve cover and have a look, and hope it's up there.

Have you run the stethoscope around the engine at 2500k? Hopefully, the noise is up high on one side. (Is it more 'tsk, tsk, tsk' or 'whisper, whisper, whisper'? Lifter vs bearing)

Alonzo Nunez · May 30, 2020

More of a tsk tsk tsk... I pulled the valve cover and cranked the motor it seemed smooth everything felt snug no spongy lifters no bent push rods so I bought two valve springs I’m gonna install them tonight. I cranked the motor by hand and one of the springs just seemed it didn’t get as high as the other and it’s had 2 or 3 shiny marks on it as if it was binding up. So my guess was if it’s not pushing all the way up then my push rod isn’t going all the way down and my lifter isn’t riding in the cam smoothly just my guess but I will start there tonight ...thanks I had a you tube video up I’m not a mechanic but I research enough to get it done myself

Alonzo Nunez · June 2, 2020

Well valve spring didn’t work out due to a shitty tool so I’m ordering a better one I’m gonna do these springs regardless.... I did change the pick up tube o ring today it was pretty flat. I removed the baffle to check my rods they don’t push up and down as far as the bearing clearance it’s Pretty stiff but they all move a hair side to side I’m sure that’s normal I hope but I did get a snap of my cam lobe I don’t think it was normal It was hard to tell the one I got was the lobe of my misfiring cylinder

barto · July 28, 2020

Any update on the issue?

Alonzo Nunez · July 28, 2020

48 minutes ago, barto said:

Any update on the issue?

Yes absolutely it was a single lifter a non afm One at that the lifter roller was all nicked up and chipped and it was eating the top of the cam lobe !!!!!! This tick never happened in low rpm so it was hard to find and also because the rocker arm was tight and had no play. So if you get a code p030(1-8) with a ticking noise that will indicate your cylinder and just to be sure the only thing that really helped me was a mechanic stethoscope the best location I found was directly on top of the (valve cover) back bolt by cylinder 8 with the vehicle revved up and I placed it directly on the VLOM Metal plate in the very back I kind of squeezed the stethoscope under the intake manifold. I hope this helps someone because everyone always talks about the afm lifter failing in a active fuel management vehicle funny thing is those lifters were all fine. I believe the cause was low and old oil also with 136,000 miles the valves needed to be adjusted for a smooth transition from v8-v4 and if you ever get that dreaded v4 vibration replace your motor mounts v4 is unbalanced and it needs those firm ac delcos it won’t happen in v8 i had broken mounts and v8 was smooth as ever and with the motor vibrating the way mine did I believe it could have also caused lifter and cam vibration just my 2 cents... good luck

barto · July 28, 2020

18 hours ago, Alonzo Nunez said:

Yes absolutely it was a single lifter a non afm One at that the lifter roller was all nicked up and chipped and it was eating the top of the cam lobe !!!!!! This tick never happened in low rpm so it was hard to find and also because the rocker arm was tight and had no play. So if you get a code p030(1-8) with a ticking noise that will indicate your cylinder and just to be sure the only thing that really helped me was a mechanic stethoscope the best location I found was directly on top of the (valve cover) back bolt by cylinder 8 with the vehicle revved up and I placed it directly on the VLOM Metal plate in the very back I kind of squeezed the stethoscope under the intake manifold. I hope this helps someone because everyone always talks about the afm lifter failing in a active fuel management vehicle funny thing is those lifters were all fine. I believe the cause was low and old oil also with 136,000 miles the valves needed to be adjusted for a smooth transition from v8-v4 and if you ever get that dreaded v4 vibration replace your motor mounts v4 is unbalanced and it needs those firm ac delcos it won’t happen in v8 i had broken mounts and v8 was smooth as ever and with the motor vibrating the way mine did I believe it could have also caused lifter and cam vibration just my 2 cents... good luck

You may have significantly helped me.

Alonzo Nunez · July 29, 2020

Nice...if your doing the work yourself I don’t know if your a mechanic or not but this guy on you tube called the sundae drive breaks down a great rebuild on a 5.3 his is a gen 5 but very similar to the gen 4 and 3 or you can check out gt performance that with with a Haynes Manuel for all the torque specs helps a lot I really saved a lot of money doing it myself... hit me up if you ever got any questions or concerns

barto · September 1, 2020

Update on my issue. 2015 Yukon Denali 6.2L first owner. The valve spring and lifter on cylinder 8 need to be replaced. Had a bent push rod and cam replaced.

Earlier this year I had the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and water bottle replaced. After that the AC condenser, rear lines and rear condenser.

Last year, the mag ride shocks replaced, steering column bearing twice, then eventually the steering column as a whole. None of this was covered my GM and the dealers (two of them) said sorry for your luck. That's just how these cars are... Never again.