Jump to content

Hard shifts, no cruise control

Kyledempsey1

Recommended Posts

Kyledempsey1 Enthusiast

Kyledempsey1

Posted
Posted

Every morning when I start my truck the traction control light stays on for a couple minutes and shifts hard up and down and the cruise control does not work. When I pick up one of my workers about 20 minutes from my house I’ll shut the truck off and restarted it and everything works fine. This is an every day thing. 
2017 Silverado 5.3 L. I use my truck every day for work so it’s hard to bring it to the shop if somebody knew what this was I can just replace the part myself in my garage and make my life easy  I’m thinking it must just be a sensor.

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, Kyledempsey1 said:

Every morning when I start my truck the truck control light stays on for a couple minutes and shifts hard up and down and the cruise control does not work. When I pick up one of my workers about 20 minutes from my house I’ll shut the truck off and restarted it and everything works fine. This is an every day thing. 
2017 Silverado 5.3 L. I use my truck every day for work so it’s hard to bring it to the shop if somebody knew what this was I can just replace the part myself in my garage and make my life easy  I’m thinking it must just be a sensor.

Hey buddy. I'de like to try to help you fix this. Just need a little more information please. When you say the truck control light, Which light do you mean?

Kyledempsey1 Enthusiast

Kyledempsey1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
25 minutes ago, carnau said:

Hey buddy. I'de like to try to help you fix this. Just need a little more information please. When you say the truck control light, Which light do you mean?

 

The traction control light. The one that would come on if you spin the tires with the traction control on

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

More than likely you've got a code that might lead you to something.  I'd have the truck scanned and see what is found.  If any are present, it can help point in the right direction to see if something is failed, failing, or where to start looking.  

Kyledempsey1 Enthusiast

Kyledempsey1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
27 minutes ago, newdude said:

More than likely you've got a code that might lead you to something.  I'd have the truck scanned and see what is found.  If any are present, it can help point in the right direction to see if something is failed, failing, or where to start looking.  

I know that but it’s summer and I’m working 7 days a week. It’s hard to get my truck to the shop to get on the scanner. I was hoping somebody else had the same problem and I could just fix it in my garage after work. It’s pretty distinct symptoms and it has to have happened to somebody else it’s just finding the person who knows what’s up

carnau Enthusiast

carnau

Posted
Posted
40 minutes ago, Kyledempsey1 said:

I know that but it’s summer and I’m working 7 days a week. It’s hard to get my truck to the shop to get on the scanner. I was hoping somebody else had the same problem and I could just fix it in my garage after work. It’s pretty distinct symptoms and it has to have happened to somebody else it’s just finding the person who knows what’s up

Buy yourself an inexpensive code reader. https://amzn.to/2BdGpJf

 

You're willing to throw parts at your vehicle on the basis that they "could" have the same problem as you. This is not a good idea. If you want help, I would be glad to help you diagnose it. But we need more information to get there.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Kyledempsey1 said:

I know that but it’s summer and I’m working 7 days a week. It’s hard to get my truck to the shop to get on the scanner. I was hoping somebody else had the same problem and I could just fix it in my garage after work. It’s pretty distinct symptoms and it has to have happened to somebody else it’s just finding the person who knows what’s up

 

The thing is, a lot of things can cause this.  People could have a similar issue, but each person may have something else causing it.  One guy could have a bad or multiple bad fuel injectors, another could have just a bad battery.  You can just start replacing parts you think it is, but it might take lots of time and $$$ to get to that point. 

 

It needs to be diagnosed.  Even if you swing by an Autozone or whatever parts stores you have in Canada that can just quick read for codes.  Or, if you have a smartphone, you can get a device like BlueDriver and scan it yourself to see if there is anything there.  Codes, if there are any, may be helpful to us on the forum, and can lead you in the right direction. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • parthery
      BAK MX4 EZ-Lift Install and Review

      By parthery · Posted

      I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
    • KARNUT
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Thanks not an answer 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      /facepalm

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...