Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Good afternoon everyone,

ive Searched and searched for my problem but haven’t found anyone with the problems I’m having so let’s dig in.

 

I have a 2005 GMC 1500. like most on here, while driving and sitting my ABS and break light pops on randomly, when this happens I sometimes get service 4wd or service air bag or other things that pop up with it and sometimes nothing pops up. Along with this issue I’ll randomly get my security light that pops on and all my gauges go to 0 except my Speedo and RPM gauge. When the security light pops on I also lose power to my AC pump it seems like because it will be ice cold then go to hot real quick until my security light pops off again then it starts working. I’ve hooked a reader up to it and it gives no codes once so ever. I’m completely stumped. I was hoping that someone on here could help please! 
 

thanks in advance!

Posted

It would be a guessing game for any of us. With that many issues it's bound to be electrical related. Could be anything from a bad ignition switch to poor connections on the harness's or bad grounds.

  • 8 months later...
Posted

Not sure if you have a code reader that can read ABS codes or if you are still having the issue.... if you can manage to find someone with the more expensive reader or you have one of the more advanced readers that can read ABS and you happen to pull C0265 from ABS, the fix is really simple (link below). As for your other issues that don't involve your brake light/ABS light, definitely check your grounds. A quick google search will give you a list of ground points to check but off the top of my head I recall there was a GM truck model where they put a ground on a painted area of the body under the dash that caused some issues but not sure if the sister trucks also had the issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Of course refrain from political debate but I myself have very dismal hope for what is all going on up here every where we turn so I nodded my head when I saw this joke.     
    • I'm looking at carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand and lumbar fusion. 
    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...