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2016 Silverado W/T manual to FACTORY power windows mod ANYONE KNOW HOW TO?

JamestownMike
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JamestownMike Enthusiast

JamestownMike

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:

Pin #40 on the large grey plug.  Here is the schematic and you can see the Fuse #8 on the Driver Left X51L Fuse Panel.

Screen Shot 2020-07-25 at 9.25.39 AM.png

Is it safe to say, pin #40 is right below pin #41? If so, I don't have anything in pin #40. So pin #1 goes to fuse 40? Unfortunately, the owner got rid of the donor Sierra cab. CRAP! Looks like i'm putting the manual Silverado stuff back in my driver door until I can get those power wires. Can I buy the necessary wires to power up my windows (both sides) and mirrors from you? I'd need pinout instructions too. I'd prefer to run wires in their factory location if possible. Can I get your number please?

13.jpg

Edited by JamestownMike
JamestownMike Enthusiast

JamestownMike

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  • Author
Posted (edited)

Am I the only guy that has installed factory power windows and mirrors into a base (NON-convenience package) W/T? I can't find ANYTHING on the web for the factory swap (just aftermarket). The power window assembly bolts right into the same location as the manual window assembly. The power window/mirror/door lock door harness routes the same as the power door lock only harness. Both power mirrors bolt right up. The power window/mirror/door lock door panel bolts right up (with 1 extra hidden screw). Just missing a few wires.

Edited by JamestownMike
  • 1 year later...
Chuchito Enthusiast

Chuchito

Posted
Posted

JamestownMike, were you able to figure this out? I just purchased a 2018 sierra with manual windows and am wanting to do the same you are trying to do. I read the entire post and it looks like you were off to a good start but then it ended. Just curious to know if you finally figured it out.

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Chuchito Enthusiast

Chuchito

Posted
Posted

I just wanted to update on what I have so far for my 2018 GMC Sierra power window conversion. I purchased the door wire harnesses for both driver and passenger door of my regular cab. It looks like those harnesses already have all the wires for the mirrors and power windows. I also purchased used door panels for my truck. Hard lesson on that. The regular cab door panels are NOT the same as the crew cabs. They are a little shorter in length than the crew cab panels. Obviously, my truck does not have the necessary wires on the cab side of connector X500 and X600. I will have to run wires for power to pin 1 and pin 40. Pin 1 is the main thick power wire and 40 is for the mirror power. I will also have to run all the wires for the mirrors so that the switch can connect from driver side to passenger side. 

 

The main issue I found is the factory switches. Since my truck does not have the data wire that communicates with the BCM, it seems that the switches need to speak to the BCM somehow. I am not sure exactly how this works and I did tons of research and cannot find any information on how the switches operate. I even called a few companies that specialize in this kind of thing, but they said that its a BCM thing. Based on what I can see, the switches need some kind of a signal to wake them up. I have power and ground to the door harness in my test bench, the window motor is connected to the harness as well. When I use my multimeter to test it, I do not see any changes coming out from the switch itself. I think that there is something in the circuit board that is not activated to allow the switch to work. That's why I think the BCM sends a signal to the switch, activating something in the circuit board to allow it to function. I tried applying power to the green and yellow wire at the switch but nothing happened. I thought that maybe the BCM sends power to the switch but that doesn't seem to be correct. I think it is some type of pulsing signal which I cannot duplicate. Maybe someone "pgamboa" can come up with a device to replicate the function of the BCM to the switch to use as a standalone device to "wake up" the switch.  

 

Anyhow, because of the issues with the OEM switches, I think the only way to convert to power windows with the OEM switches is to make sure the data wires are run and connected to the BCM, and program the BCM. 

 

For now, I ordered a universal kit from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L162PC5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

The switches in this kit look very similar to the stock switches. My plan is to somehow modify the door trim that holds the OEM switches to allow the aftermarket switches to mount. Hopefully they look stock enough. Then I will wire these switches with the harness they came with and wire them to the factory door harness to get power and ground. There will be two brown wires in the kit that connect from the drivers side to the passenger side. These wires are normally negative and change to positive when the passenger switch on the driver side door is pressed. This is the only thing that I am a bit concerned about. I will have to pin those two brown wires on both sides of the X500 and X600 connectors. I worry that once I pin them, there might be an issue since the pins don't seem thick enough to handle the amperage that those wires may draw. I will test it like that first and if I see that there is an issue, I may just install two relays on the passenger side door panel to those two brown wires. That way the wires just act as remote wires only to activate the relays in the passenger door. 

 

I will update once I get this accomplished.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
Chuchito Enthusiast

Chuchito

Posted
Posted

Update to the power window conversion. All is installed and working. I did have to add the two relays I mentioned in my previous post. That way there is not worries about amperage issues. I also molded in the aftermarket switches into the factory trim panels in the doors. In the picture attached, the bottom panel is the OEM. The top one is the one where I molded the aftermarket switches. Everything works great. 

IMG_2926.jpg

  • Like 2
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Chuchito said:

Update to the power window conversion. All is installed and working. I did have to add the two relays I mentioned in my previous post. That way there is not worries about amperage issues. I also molded in the aftermarket switches into the factory trim panels in the doors. In the picture attached, the bottom panel is the OEM. The top one is the one where I molded the aftermarket switches. Everything works great. 

IMG_2926.jpg

Nice work! Looks great!

  • 4 weeks later...
Chuchito Enthusiast

Chuchito

Posted
Posted
On 4/18/2023 at 9:39 PM, MikeBMW said:

Nice work! Looks great!

Thank you Mike. I appreciate that. I wish I would have written down all the details of how I was able to do it. It was a lot more wiring than I had hoped. It all turned out great though. I even was able to add power and folding mirrors with turn signals. Replacing the factory door harness with power ones helped out a lot.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Mauro D New Member

Mauro D

Posted
Posted
On 7/25/2020 at 7:22 AM, JamestownMike said:

Okay, that would be great. Thank you!

I assumed the power mirror switch got it's power for pin #1 because a 10A fuse is present in the Silverado driver dash fuse in location 8 for the "Driver window switch/mirror switch".

 

Mauro D New Member

Mauro D

Posted
Posted
On 5/17/2023 at 11:15 AM, Chuchito said:

Chuchito

I am just starting the process on mine. 
Do you remember much of the process?

maybe you can send me an email?

I would really appreciate that. 
 

I am in SoCal. Are you in the area by any chance? I’d like to see your truck

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