Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Dropped my truck off this morning to get the resonator screens removed. Cutting the section out containing the three screens on each side, welding in 3” pipe . Its roughly a 12” section on each side.

Flapper was removed with stock muffler and a black widow put in place. Just picked it up. It sounds way better with those screens removed , and I also feel like the truck has more bottom end with screens removed .

 

 

Driving at 40km/h , 60km/h and 80km/h. No drone whatsoever. Its shockingly silent in the cab at cruising speeds. 

 

starting thread to upload some videos after work.  

Posted
22 hours ago, Chips said:

Dropped my truck off this morning to get the resonator screens removed. Cutting the section out containing the three screens on each side, welding in 3” pipe . Its roughly a 12” section on each side.

Flapper was removed with stock muffler and a black widow put in place. Just picked it up. It sounds way better with those screens removed , and I also feel like the truck has more bottom end with screens removed .

 

 

Driving at 40km/h , 60km/h and 80km/h. No drone whatsoever. Its shockingly silent in the cab at cruising speeds. 

 

starting thread to upload some videos after work.  

Really, no drone at all? That's awesome!

 

Do you have a link to the black widow muffler you purchased?

  • Like 1
Posted

I am leaning towards a similar change to my 6.2 HC.  Is there any down side of removing the valves? Codes?  I'm not sure what muffler I will choose...I am a fan of Magnaflow.  Are there any inherent flaws to the rest of the OE cat-back system other than the screen, the valves and the quiet muffler? 

Posted
39 minutes ago, AEmedic said:

I am leaning towards a similar change to my 6.2 HC.  Is there any down side of removing the valves? Codes?  I'm not sure what muffler I will choose...I am a fan of Magnaflow.  Are there any inherent flaws to the rest of the OE cat-back system other than the screen, the valves and the quiet muffler? 

 

No down side, the flapper should be removed when changing the muffler. The muffler is big, heavy and restrictive . You wont get an aggressive tone with the screens in place , if you have the resonator screens if not and you have an actual resonator then the same thing, it should be removed unless you are after a milder tone.

 

 

 

 

All these components are after any sensors so no issues with codes or anything.

 

Ill post some pictures of how she looks.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
20 hours ago, Chips said:

No down side, the flapper should be removed when changing the muffler. The muffler is big, heavy and restrictive . You wont get an aggressive tone with the screens in place , if you have the resonator screens if not and you have an actual resonator then the same thing, it should be removed unless you are after a milder tone.

 

 

 

 

All these components are after any sensors so no issues with codes or anything.

 

Ill post some pictures of how she looks.

 

 

 

 

 

Is yours a 6.2?  Is yours 3" pipe throughout?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/30/2020 at 4:59 PM, AEmedic said:

Is yours a 6.2?  Is yours 3" pipe throughout?

I think he has a 5.3L because he only mentions one flapper valve and the resonating screens. 

Posted
1 hour ago, EricTheRed said:

I think he has a 5.3L because he only mentions one flapper valve and the resonating screens. 

Thank you.  I did determine what the 6.2L has.  It is 3.5” that necks down to 3” at the flappers at the inlet and outlet of the muffler then back to 3.5” till it reaches the Y at the axle.

Posted

Very tempted as well, I've found an AFE for $110 (out of stock) at American Trucks) and a Magnaflow for $178 (in stock), debating on if the Magnaflow is the better option, but it's just a straight pipe????  Otherwise, just worried about the sound with the variable cylinder deactivation !

Posted
3 hours ago, Spyderwebb said:

Very tempted as well, I've found an AFE for $110 (out of stock) at American Trucks) and a Magnaflow for $178 (in stock), debating on if the Magnaflow is the better option, but it's just a straight pipe????  Otherwise, just worried about the sound with the variable cylinder deactivation !

So it depend what you are looking for . I can tell you the 2020 trucks are way way quieter than the 2018 . Im not quite sure what they did .

 

For myself I probably should have straight piped it. My Black Widow setup is nice and fairly loud. But its still not near my 2018 with the same exact setup.

 

im convinced you just cant make them loud , maybe a straight pipe?

 

With the resonance pipes removed and the flapper removed , Black Widow Race Venom it sounds good, not loud at all unless cold start, in cab noise is noticeable at 100 km/h to 115 km/h after 115 it goes away. Under that or over that range its quiet in cab.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...