Jump to content

No crank, one click 2014 Silverado

Don1500

By Don1500
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Don1500 Enthusiast

Don1500

Posted
Posted

Good morning , two days ago when I was leaving work to start my truck. I got this whine or squeaking sound when I turned the key over to start my truck it just whines until I turned it off, tried it again a few seconds later the same thing, I turned it off again, tried to crank it once again and it did crank this time. I’ve never heard this noise before so I did some research and all I kept getting was transmission whining information. This was not a transmission whine. I did more research and found a video. I can post it down later in the comments but I’m the video this guy took his starter to autozone to get tested and as they were testing it. It made the exactly same whine or squeak or whistle as my truck had made. So now I know that weird sound is my starter. Did some more research. That sound is the starter not engaging with the flywheel or pinwheel (plz correct me if I’m wrong) so yesterday morning it cranked up fine, I sat in my truck for maybe 5 mins like every morning and headed to the gas station to get my cup of coffee, turned off my truck , go get my coffee, tried to fire my truck up and it wouldn’t start, no squeak no whistle or no cry from what I know now to be my starter. I wiggle a few cables on my battery, good connections, no visible corrosion, I even had someone say, that battery looks pretty new??‍♂️. I’ve had the truck for almost 2 years now , never changed the battery . Year is 2014 so yeah I called my sister for a jump start and it took five minutes and I was back running. It was pretty early like 7 am on a Sunday Autozone nor Walmart tire center was open so I went back home and tried to wait it out until one of them opened , I went to start my truck and it crank but it seemed pretty weak, i did that maybe 6 times and I said F it let me go to work. I went to work, lunch break I got a small whistle from the start but it cranked went to the store and back...after work I had the same thing started cried one the first turn but it did crank the second turn with no cry from the starter. Made it home did more research and went to bed, this morning I went out to go to work and no crank few clicks , I tried maybe 4 times then I took a video.

i will post the YouTube video with time stamp as well as my video I recorded this morning after trying to crank it. Can someone point me in the right direction.

 

PS Happy Holidays 

Don1500 Enthusiast

Don1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
29 minutes ago, stevejones said:

I that wall of text I see the words "new" & "battery" several times.  However, I don't see "new battery" at all...

Huh?

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, Don1500 said:

Huh?

I believe stevejones was saying the same thing that came to my mind and that is to get your battery checked. Nothing you said would discourage me from first suspecting a poor battery.   Welcome to this forum.  You will find a lot of good advice here especially if you keep your posts short and to the point.

  • Thanks 1
Don1500 Enthusiast

Don1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the hospitality, this is my first truck and I’m trying to learn everything I can about it. Sorry for the long post. I didn’t wanna leave out any details. So I should get my battery tested ? The starter whistling isn’t a problem?

Edited by Don1500
Spelling
stevejones Enthusiast

stevejones

Posted
Posted

No need for apologies.

 

Assuming the battery is original, go get a new one.  6 years out of a battery is a good life.  Even if it's not the source, you'll likely be needing one in the not-so-distant future.

 

And don't skimp on the replacement.

Don1500 Enthusiast

Don1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 minutes ago, stevejones said:

No need for apologies.

 

Assuming the battery is original, go get a new one.  6 years out of a battery is a good life.  Even if it's not the source, you'll likely be needing one in the not-so-distant future.

 

And don't skimp on the replacement.

Thanks will do, gonna go home and remove it and take it to the nearest autozone. Hopefully it has enough juice for them to test it 

Don1500 Enthusiast

Don1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey I’m back, I bought a battery got the platinum one , the test crank it cranked up fine , I let it run for a couple of minutes and turn it off to see would it crank back up, so I turned it off and tried to crank it and i got the starter spinning sound. Tried it a few more times and nothing no crank still, I popped the hood just to give it a look for maybe 30 secs went back in my truck to try once again before I came in for the night and it cranked. So I’ll just try in the AM to see if It will crank. I also have a video 

Doublebase Enthusiast

Doublebase

Posted
Posted

If the battery in new, then most likely it’s the starter. Starter failures are pretty common on these trucks. Some have also noticed connection problems at the starter, either way a starter replacement would handle both issues.

  • Like 1
mookdoc6 Senior Enthusiast

mookdoc6

Posted
Posted (edited)
51 minutes ago, Don1500 said:

Ok I will get a starter tomorrow, thanks again 

 

51 minutes ago, Don1500 said:

Ok I will get a starter tomorrow, thanks again 

Yes, you have 2014 it's most likely the starter.  You will not have problem after the newer designed one when they changed the motor mounts time frame?  I can't remember....my god!  They are on p/n 4 or 5 on the vacuum pump...don't worry you will go down that road too!

Edited by mookdoc6
  • Like 1
Don1500 Enthusiast

Don1500

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

2 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

 

Yes, you have 2014 it's most likely the starter.  You will not have problem after the newer designed one when they changed the motor mounts time frame?  I can't remember....my god!  They are on p/n 4 or 5 on the vacuum pump...don't worry you will go down that road too!

 

2 minutes ago, mookdoc6 said:

 

Yes, you have 2014 it's most likely the starter.  You will not have problem after the newer designed one when they changed the motor mounts time frame?  I can't remember....my god!  They are on p/n 4 or 5 on the vacuum pump...don't worry you will go down that road too!

I have no idea what p/n 4 or 5 means? 
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • SoCal Angler
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By SoCal Angler · Posted

      2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...