Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 6/6/2024 at 11:52 PM, Newduramaxh*ar said:

What did you do with the open/close harness now that you changed it to a solid window? Im having the same issue, water inside.  Dealer added the silicone already 4yrs ago. Thinking of going with a solid window also.

 

The harness and motor for the slider are still there. I put that all back so that if I or someone in the future wanted to put a slider in, they could do so, no issues.  The defrost has no issues - slider actually has a harness for the left and right sides, that plugs into a single harness defrost plug on the truck side.  The solid window is a single plug that then plugs into the truck-side single defrost plug.  

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Same issue here for my 2020 Chevy Trailboss K1500. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet, glad to have the info about the TSB 18NA383 to reference. Anyone have luck with skipping the initial seal and just having the rear window replaced with a solid (non-sliding) one. Just afraid that it will start to leak again after the seal repair. I see definite cracks on the inside, upper part of the rear window and headliner has obvious water damage. 

IMG_0773.jpeg

IMG_0775.jpeg

IMG_0771.jpeg

Posted

UPDATE: Spent my morning playing the round robin tag on (unhelpful) phone calls between GM Customer Service Assistant Center and service manager at the dealership where we purchased the vehicle. I mentioned the TSB Service Bulletin to both and they proceeded to point the finger at each other. GM said that the dealership needs to confirm the issue and that they do not see any recalls or safety bulletins for our VIN. And then the service manager said that we have to bring the truck in to get it diagnosed (diagnosis fee $275), then they have to send the info to GM to see if they will cover the issue, because the 'dealership' is not responsible for covering this repair. It will take 1-3 days to hear back from GM and what their resolution might be. The dealership also telling me that they do not see any recalls or service bulletins on my truck, even though I can distinctly see from photos of the Safety Bulletin that it is what I am experiencing also. So if GM decides that they aren't going to cover it, I am stuck with the $275 diagnosis fee! Why do I feel like they are doing their best to NOT take care of this issue? #GMCustomerService

 

 

Same issue here for my 2020 Chevy Trailboss K1500. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet, glad to have the info about the TSB 18NA383 to reference. Anyone have luck with skipping the initial seal and just having the rear window replaced with a solid (non-sliding) one. Just afraid that it will start to leak again after the seal repair. I see definite cracks on the inside, upper part of the rear window and headliner has obvious water damage. 

Posted
On 7/22/2024 at 10:30 PM, MPMikey said:

Anyone have luck with skipping the initial seal and just having the rear window replaced with a solid (non-sliding) one. Just afraid that it will start to leak again after the seal repair. 

Yes. Save the time and the hassle and have a solid rear window installed like I did. The issue is the plastic frame of the window. It's worthless. If you read enough about this, they'll want to run you through the ringer of fixes like caulking or sealant, then back again for more, then maybe they finally give you another plastic window that'll break in X number of months.  Forget all that.

 

It'll take some explaining to these glass shops, most want only to replace with what you have OEM, i.e. another worthless plastic rear slider window. You'll find one that'll install a solid back window though if you're persistent.    

 

No leaks. Defrost works. Less hassle. Piece of mind.  I live in the Pacific NW, can't have issues with leaks up here.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the heads up and glad you were able to get it fixed. We were hoping to skip the sealing stage and just get the solid window. But right now, just jumping through hoops with the dealership and GM to just get the issue confirmed. Gotta love the $275 Diagnosis Fee, with the potential that GM won't cover the repair (even though I referenced the Service Bulletin). UGH! I am sure they can confirm it just fine with the photos that I have! But no, let's make this as painful as possible. We will probably have to go with an outside repair place.

  • 7 months later...
Posted (edited)

40 years since high-mounted 3rd brake lights have been mandated. And GM and Mary Barra haven’t hired an engineer who knows how to design one that doesn’t leak. Never by a GM.

Edited by Guy Fox

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,938
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    C. Hart
    Newest Member
    C. Hart
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 592 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the help!   I'm going to stop into the scales one of these days and weigh my axels, for the time being, I am going to run Toyo's recommendations and also do a chalk test. I have a tire shop that's going to try their scanner to reprogram and set the the factory psi values lower, and if they can't I'm going to order a scanner and do it myself!
    • You won’t do better than stock exhaust without headers. Just put your favorite muffler on it and it will do the job. 
    • I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"     I'd say its the head, and its either leaking at the casting line and dripping down the intake into the cylinder, or its another spot on the casting itself at the cylinder that is getting wet.  
    • Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...