Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I'm looking at a 2007 yukon denali 6.2L possibly to purchase. All in all seems solid except for the oil pressure seems really low at idle. I know these dash gauges aren't the most reliable but this seems concerning. 6.2L guys what say you?

 

spacer.png

Posted

If that is accurate, it's pretty low.

 

The lowest my 2012 ever got was around 20psi hot in the summer and that isn't even at the first line which is 20psi. That's like 10psi if it's correct.

 

Ideally you'd test it with a manual pressure gauge to confirm. If the manual gauge is higher then it's probably a sensor issue.

  • Like 2
Posted
3 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

If that is accurate, it's pretty low.

 

The lowest my 2012 ever got was around 20psi hot in the summer and that isn't even at the first line which is 20psi. That's like 10psi if it's correct.

 

Ideally you'd test it with a manual pressure gauge to confirm. If the manual gauge is higher then it's probably a sensor issue.

Thanks for the quick reply! We are taking it to a 3rd party mechanic for them to go over it tomorrow. We will make sure they check it with a manual gauge.

Posted
1 minute ago, Mike GMC said:

Oil brand and weight as well as filter choice can effect pressure.  Do you know what's in it?

Unfortunately not at the moment. I will inquire tommorow

Posted

my 2005 yukon had similar pressure at idle in really hot weather. what happened was it used a little oil... and what i suspect is that my wife let it get down there where it was either way hot - because it had two quarts in it - or the engine was coming apart anyway. i never tore it down.. but it was in that period where the GM engines were pretty noisy - especially when they were cold...

Posted

Actually found the oil info, forgot we got service paperwork from them. 5W30 motorcraft oil. Oil filter is part number R84060. Doesn't mention brand but google search brings up Carquest

Posted

So I've been reading up on this and it would seem the oil pressure at hot idle should be around 20-25 psi.

 

IF testing manually with another gauge confirms this vehicle is only at about 10lbs I think it would be safe to say this is a vehicle I should stay far away from correct?

It seems likely it would be a oil pump going South or worn cranks bearings if it isn't the 'easy' fix of a new sensor. Or possibly O-Ring around the pickup tube leaking but that requires the pan being dropped.

 

Any other possible 'easy' fixes? I know I could run some thicker oil in it and who knows it may run for years but I want something mechanically sound not something with a bandaid on it.

 

The dealership didn't seem to want any part of addressing the issue yesterday. I guess they figure someone will miss the issue and buy it. I'm not looking at pouring a lot of money into repairs. In the end I will probably just end up walking but maybe dealership will come around and fix it.

 

 

 

I am the same person as the OP. Just realized this is a different account.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

well like any used vehicle.. check the tail pipe for signs of oil seeping past rings and valve seals... listen... hard at how much noise the engine emits - piston slap - rod or main knocks.. on start-up, when it is cold and warmed up.. check the radiator for coolant.. and bubbles... on and on.. low oil pressure might be a red flag and might not be.. you have to look and listen..

Posted
15 hours ago, Zach Nelson said:

Thanks for the quick reply! We are taking it to a 3rd party mechanic for them to go over it tomorrow. 

Good plan.  This vehicle has good mileage for its age but it is still a well used vehicle with aging parts. Plan for potentially costly repairs and make sure the purchase price makes such repairs tolerable.  No matter how carefully you scrutinize a vehicle, new or used, it can still give you unwanted surprises.  

  • Like 2
Posted

We had a Tahoe at work that had low oil pressure.  It would have random AFM issues as well and the recommendation was a new engine.  I would stay away from this one.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Well after talking with the dealer some more yesterday they have agreed to put a new oil pressure sensor on the vehicle and see if that resolves the issue. They stated they would not be going any further than that however. After talking to a couple of mechanics and reading up on the symptoms typically seen with a faulty oil pressure sensor I'm not optimistic this will fix it. We did take it to a 3rd party mechanic but he said it would be $150 to do the test with a manual gauge so we decided against that when the dealer should be handling it.

 

Looks like we will end up having to walk away. A real shame because for a 2007 this vehicle was super clean and everything appeared to be in excellent condition other than that. Oh well the search continues I guess.

Edited by 03pewterZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,514 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...