Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I noticed I had the heated rear seat connector behind my drivers side rear seat.  Recently I put an oem wireless charger in my truck and in that process I bought a wiring harness for my center console that supports heated rears seats. 

 

I have a RST Silverado 2020 with a center console.

 

I needed 8 parts to get hardware in place for heated seats

trim plate 84505576 $30

seat heat switch 84476688 $30

heat switch bracket 84172412 $8

harness 84482759 $56

(2) seat cushion heater 84369788 $20ea

module 13523031 $35

module bracket 84180630 $10

seat harness 84441561 $35

 

Total $250

 

I switched everything out and I tucked the heating pads under the seat covers.

I figured it was likely I would need some custom programming but I gave it a shot anyhow.

After all that it did not work. No light turns on the switch.

 

I thought about making a canny device but then WAMS came out with custom BCM programming for T1.  His website says support is pending for adding heated rear seats.   I have everything in place for cooled/heated front seats too but I am waiting to see if WAMS adds the heated rear seats.  Anyone done this? Or made any canny device for any functions on these trucks?

 

Posted

I already have the heated rears, but would love to find a way to add cooled rears as well. I mean it only sucks for the kids, but living in FL, they would be useful 9 months out of the year.

 

I knew the Ram had them, but no way was that enough to get me to switch ??

Posted

I've never added OEM heated seats before, especially in newer vehicles that need the BCM programmed for everything.

 

If anyone is looking to do it easy and fairly inexpensive, after market kits are very straight forward.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

White automotive and media services WAMS now offers this activation with autosync.  Works just like it does from factory $250 dollar upgrade if you already have autosync, you can use the new console harness from this upgrade to hook up an OEM wireless charger for another ~$120.

  • 8 months later...
  • 6 months later...
Posted

Hi Jarett - Did you ever get the rear heated seats working with the parts ?   Thx Chris

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/3/2022 at 8:16 PM, ChrisMK said:

Hi Jarett - Did you ever get the rear heated seats working with the parts ?   Thx Chris

yes got it working perfectly like from factory just need parts listed and autosync device from WAMS

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 8/16/2022 at 5:37 PM, Rally6.2RST said:

yes got it working perfectly like from factory just need parts listed and autosync device from WAMS

 

Has anyone else figured this out?  WAMS replied to me that they don't have this capability....

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I recently purchased all the parts and have everything in except the heating elements as they are delayed. Getting the console harness in was a pain and I haven’t installed the rear harness permanently. It’s currently hooked into the rear connector and I’m sitting at the dealer so they can get the software from GM then install the code. $225 for labor and whatever the charge is for the software from GM, they said under $100. Sure you can go the aftermarket route but I wanted all OEM parts and buttons. Just my OCD I guess. I’ll let you know when I get it working. Disassembling the center console and taking out the rear seat can be found on YouTube. 

IMG_6241.jpeg

Edited by Whiskeyranch
Posted

Well my dealer now says they can’t program the BCM since my truck (LT Trail Boss) never came with rear heated seats. They said my BCM linked to my VIN wouldn’t be able to do it and I couldn’t swap out my BCM. I’m still wearing for WAMS to release their new custom programming service. 

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...