Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

this is my latest project, was trying to make the under $50  goal , but i exceeded that. total my cost was roughly $100 ,  this filter was run for only 7 days. the next one will probably go for 5000 miles cut it open and update yall soon.

current filter was cut open and hardly saw much metal debris with only 300 miles on it.. 

 

Now i've made a strange discovery. While running the spin on filter in full flow mode off the trans line, i would experience a warm running system, about 180-190 degree F. I can only guess see this must have been restricting the trans fluid flow rate thru ths ACDelco filter to the trans cooler.

 

should also be noted I dont have a transmission thermostat, that was deleted last year, it always runs at 138-145 degrees F after this mod.

 

After that test I made a By-pass valve up, with a cross feed to the spin-on adapter, and utilizing a 1/8" port restriction  thru the brass valve, to allow some cooling fluid to bypass the filter and continue thru the radiator back to the transmission.  what I found strange about this set up is the transmission temperature now operates at a solid 122 degree F after installing the by-pass valve. 

I drove down the freeway for 35 minutes at 70 mph one way, and it held 122F. on the way back it climb to 128-130 degrees F.  i wonder if the 1/8" restriction is reducing the velocity of the hot trans fluid before it enters the radiator cooler and this is improving thermal transfer of heat from the fluid to the radiator coolant?

 

Bypass valve was purchased from Frantz Filters years ago.. unfortunatly the Owner sold to a new guy so I'm not sure they still make these. If you PM me i can explain how you can easily make your own on a Drill press out of a block of aluminum or brass. 

https://www.frantzfilters.com/

 

I also added a motion Pro filter magnet inside the spin on, hoping to catch some steel fuzzies with it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

20201114_104428.thumb.jpg.cd65e873cc676e1fdd102958f6ceb7b4.jpg

 

 

Edited by flyingfool
Posted (edited)

I like this project. It's on my radar. 

 

I was thinking of putting a "Tee" in the line to the cooler to the filter and back to the pan with a restrictor jet to mimic the AMSOIL BP filter setup. Or perhaps a needle valve at the filter exit to regulate flow instead of replaceable jets. 

 

I find your temp readings interesting. Especially after the bypass modification. Hum.... ? You may have solved a different problem for me. :thumbs:

 

Did you know there are 238 possible cross references for the PF61? That particular filter and nearly all of it's cross references hasn't a bypass valve. 

 

WIX51214 used on HD models has a bypass of 8-11 psi and is the same physical size and 21 micron nominal 3/4"-16 thread

AC-Delco PF1788 same as the WIX if Delco is a must. These are 7-9 gpm filters. Hi throughput isn't a biggie if a bypass system but might be in a full flow setup. No, I have no idea what these pumps put out.

 

One SONNAX source puts 6L90E pump rates to the cooler between between 1 and 2.6 GPM at 125 F

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/509-sonnaflow-chart-6l90-2011-truck-with-tow-pack

 Also an interesting read: 

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8289

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted

Thinking about this I realize why the factory thermostat hasn't a minimum flow bypass. It would be a really small orifice. 

Posted (edited)

apparently 2.6 GPM is too fast for proper cooling of the transmissions fluid.  I must say it's taking me longer to get up to operating temp in this cool California weather (55 degrees). so maybe going full flow in a cold climate is the best route, and use a hydraulic spin on filter with-out the rubber "drain back valve" to cause restricion on the the pumps output fluid when in full flow set up.

 

after cutting open the can, there was no blow off bypass valve in there, which is fine, I'm not concerned with the bypass valve built into a spin on filter. my fluid is very clean and the filter is not holding any metal sprinkles either in which to cause fluid blockage.  Even the old style Frantz filters never had blow off valves in them, they all use 1/8" restrictors on the entry port. but they also have less back pressure by utilizing a depth style Toilet roll filtration vs our screen filtration..

 

the pf61e is a bit strange looking filter, not sure what it was designed for, it has a wierd metal baffle cover over the input holes. i couldnt use it in conjunction with the oil magnet because of this. but its built rather well with good quality materials. nothing cheap or flimsy not bad for $3

 

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8289

if fluid flow was detrimental to the service life of the trans, as cited by GM tech advisory selling their special fluid flush treatment machine,, why on earth did GM install the thermostat inline to completly plug off the fluid flow until 190 degrees?

 

 

Edited by flyingfool
Posted
54 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

 

 

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8289

if fluid flow was detrimental to the service life of the trans, as cited by GM tech advisory selling their special fluid flush treatment machine,, why on earth did GM install the thermostat inline to completly plug off the fluid flow until 190 degrees?

 

 

I see you need more accurate information. When the thermostat is closed pump output is 'short circuited" to the return internally in the valve itself. IE pump output is always going somewhere. To the cooler or to the return via the valve internally. Understand? 

 

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8289

 

Listen carefully to what he says about lubricity at 200 F.

Posted
11 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I see you need more accurate information. When the thermostat is closed pump output is 'short circuited" to the return internally in the valve itself. IE pump output is always going somewhere. To the cooler or to the return via the valve internally. Understand? 

 

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=8289

 

Listen carefully to what he says about lubricity at 200 F.

yes . makes sense. 

  • Like 1
Posted

i'll have to pull the trans line one day and actually time and measure the flow rate with my entire set up.

Posted

Friend put a bypass trans filter on his 2007 Sprinter 3500 Van (MB 5-cyl diesel).  He uses vehicle to custom haul loads all over the USA, he and his partner drive about 10,000 miles a month.   Within 6 months the trans went suddenly when he was on the road our west somewhere. Found a used trans and the installed it out there somewhere.   Again a few months later and this trans failed, engine started racing and trans slipping..  So in the first year with a bypass he lost 2 transmissions.  He's been hauling for over 25 yrs all over the US and it capable of doing most any repairs.  He's convinced the trans problems are related to the bypass oil filter he hoped would make the trans last 500,000 miles.  He has put another trans in and has not hooked the bypass filter in and its been a year and no more problems.  He found a spare just in case. 

 

I told him I thought it was a bad idea but when he's on the road he comes with these hair-brained ideas and you can't talk him out of it.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, elcamino said:

Friend put a bypass trans filter on his 2007 Sprinter 3500 Van (MB 5-cyl diesel).  He uses vehicle to custom haul loads all over the USA, he and his partner drive about 10,000 miles a month.   Within 6 months the trans went suddenly when he was on the road our west somewhere. Found a used trans and the installed it out there somewhere.   Again a few months later and this trans failed, engine started racing and trans slipping..  So in the first year with a bypass he lost 2 transmissions.  He's been hauling for over 25 yrs all over the US and it capable of doing most any repairs.  He's convinced the trans problems are related to the bypass oil filter he hoped would make the trans last 500,000 miles.  He has put another trans in and has not hooked the bypass filter in and its been a year and no more problems.  He found a spare just in case. 

 

I told him I thought it was a bad idea but when he's on the road he comes with these hair-brained ideas and you can't talk him out of it.

If he's hairbrained,  then it could be operator error and poorly installed , so many variables to the story. i need to see his set up, and read the install directions for his kit. not to say your wrong. but with aftermarket performance parts and general public, they are almost always installed improperly 70% of the time.

 

the transmission pump is already is bypassing fluid to the radiator on our trucks. I'm taking away 10-15% to clean to a higher level.  hence the reason for my bypass valve to the spin on filter. so i'm still flowing 75-80% thru the stock system . 

Now if you take into account the stock design everyone on here with the 6 speeds all have. the thermostats are completely blocking the cooling line system until you reach 190 degrees at the tranny. so there is no oil flow on your factory oem design,  and yet no oil starvation with the factory blockage, the pump in the trans is by-passing fluid for cooling, its not a full flow pump to the cooler

Edited by flyingfool
Posted

I've been running that Derale kit for 2 years, with the thermostat deleted for over 2 years now, with no issues. I change the spin on filter every other oil change, so 10,000 miles. I also welded a bung and plug onto the transmission pan for easier fluid changes. Will be doing the 60,000 mile fluid change pretty soon.  

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, imiller1974 said:

I've been running that Derale kit for 2 years, with the thermostat deleted for over 2 years now, with no issues. I change the spin on filter every other oil change, so 10,000 miles. I also welded a bung and plug onto the transmission pan for easier fluid changes. Will be doing the 60,000 mile fluid change pretty soon.  

that's awsome man!  out of curiosity, what filter do you use, and what is your trans temp when out on the highway?

 

i thought about Grumpy's idea of installing and adjustable valve inline of the trans cooler. I am amaized at how adding 1/8" restriction has Improved my trans cooling.  need to find a quality built valve to give me 3 accurate measured openings points, for when the weather is cold, hot, or towing heavy trailer cross country and i need full flow opened line

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, flyingfool said:

that's awsome man!  out of curiosity, what filter do you use, and what is your trans temp when out on the highway?

 

i thought about Grumpy's idea of installing and adjustable valve inline of the trans cooler. I am amaized at how adding 1/8" restriction has Improved my trans cooling.  need to find a quality built valve to give me 3 accurate measured openings points, for when the weather is cold, hot, or towing heavy trailer cross country and i need full flow opened line

I was running a Wix version of the FL1A. Now since I have so much crap under the hood with the supercharger coolant bottle and pump, the vacuum canister, both oil catch cans, I have the trans filter mounted on the cross brace near the brake booster so I run the Wix 51516. I just throw a zip lock bag under/on it and unscrew it when its time to change. Prefill a new one and let her rip...

 

Keep in mind, I'm not running a bypass like you are, just in series. I tapped (cut and flared the ends) into the line when it comes out of the radiator, and before the cooler built into the condenser. That way the fluid is a little warmer before filtering. I don't know if that's good or bad, but it works for me. 

Edited by imiller1974
  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, imiller1974 said:

 

Keep in mind, I'm not running a bypass like you are, just in series. I tapped (cut and flared the ends) into the line when it comes out of the radiator, and before the cooler built into the condenser. That way the fluid is a little warmer before filtering. I don't know if that's good or bad, but it works for me. 

i highly recommend you convert to a bypass valve just for safety sake

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 381 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...