Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone know how to access the instrument cluster of the new Sierra? To remove it and/or remove the gauge lens to access the gauges themselves? Any chance its fairly easy to get to without taking too much of the dash apart?

Posted
18 hours ago, kodiakdenali said:

Does anyone know how to access the instrument cluster of the new Sierra? To remove it and/or remove the gauge lens to access the gauges themselves? Any chance its fairly easy to get to without taking too much of the dash apart?

Dealership - Parts man - get a print  out . Hope that helps

Posted

it never hurts to ask. I have to go to the dealer for a minor repair anyway, I will ask them how to get it out, or if its possible to get access behind the lens without actually removing the whole unit.

Posted

Removing the actual cluster is a 10 minute job. I did it when I upgraded from the SLT cluster to the Denali cluster. I think there’s a YouTube video, or maybe it was on WAM’s website.

Posted
Removing the actual cluster is a 10 minute job. I did it when I upgraded from the SLT cluster to the Denali cluster. I think there’s a YouTube video, or maybe it was on WAM’s website.

I finally found it. This doesn’t help with talking the lens off, but at least helps get the cluster out.

Posted

awesome! thanks!

I was just going for something pretty simple, I want to see if I can use my vinyl machine to add all the missing numbers back onto the speedometer... but this has me wondering, I didn't know replacing the cluster with another was that easy. the last car I looked into this (C5) it was way more complicated due to the fact that the odometer information was stored in the cluster itself. You can't swap it without sending it to someone who can set the odo for you. But it appears that everything important is stored elsewhere on these trucks. So you can really just swap them out like this? I like the silverado cluster much more than the one in my Denali...or for that matter, I wonder if you can swap in the "lower spec" silverado cluster into a denali? Does anyone know if there are any features that the denali cluster offers that I'd be losing if I did so? I don't want to lose any of the information, menus or functionality, but I like the real physical analog gauges much better than these stupid simulated ones my current cluster has, which are nearly impossible to read due to them being a bar graph style with a blue foreground and black background...Even if one of the lower clusters wouldn't work, the simulated gauges of the Silverado look much nicer than the Denali ones, red needles instead of white, round gauges rather than chamfered squares....I may need to look into that.

Posted
awesome! thanks!
I was just going for something pretty simple, I want to see if I can use my vinyl machine to add all the missing numbers back onto the speedometer... but this has me wondering, I didn't know replacing the cluster with another was that easy. the last car I looked into this (C5) it was way more complicated due to the fact that the odometer information was stored in the cluster itself. You can't swap it without sending it to someone who can set the odo for you. But it appears that everything important is stored elsewhere on these trucks. So you can really just swap them out like this? I like the silverado cluster much more than the one in my Denali...or for that matter, I wonder if you can swap in the "lower spec" silverado cluster into a denali? Does anyone know if there are any features that the denali cluster offers that I'd be losing if I did so? I don't want to lose any of the information, menus or functionality, but I like the real physical analog gauges much better than these stupid simulated ones my current cluster has, which are nearly impossible to read due to them being a bar graph style with a blue foreground and black background...Even if one of the lower clusters wouldn't work, the simulated gauges of the Silverado look much nicer than the Denali ones, red needles instead of white, round gauges rather than chamfered squares....I may need to look into that.

No, you would still have to find someone to program another cluster for you if you go that route. WAM’s is one vendor who offers that service.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
    • *Your      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...