Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

 

What's the collective wisdom on the value of the extended warranty or vehicle protection plans offered by GM for the 3500 with Duramax engine?  Normally I automatically turn down such offers b/c I think the company is smart enough to find a price point where it is likely they will earn more money on the plans than on the actual repairs.  However, having just lost my '08 F350 diesel engine and spent stacks of $$s to replace, I'm wondering if maybe I should reconsider.  I don't know about the Sierra design, but it also seemed that anytime there was something significant to do on the F350 turbo or motor, it was "cab off" which added ~$2k to each job.  Ouch.   

 

What say you?

Posted

you can get them from any insurance company right, the dealer just marks up the crap out of something you can buy on your own and GM uses a 3rd party i think anyways......i would shop around for warranties and see what comes up

Posted

I'd recommend getting it.  I'm a proponent of the exclusive warranties, where they tell you what's not covered.  These are essentially bumper to bumper type coverage less any wear and tear items.  I had one on my F150 a few years back with the EcoBoost, I think it cost me $1,500 or so for a 5 year 100K mile plan and they easily lost money on it.  I had a turbo go out at 40K that was a $1,700 repair, and I have a sunroof issue that was over $1,000, plus other more minor things over the years.~2K on what is likely a $70K+ vehicle is a no brainer for me. 

Posted

Some of the parts in your truck (fuel system and emissions related stuff) that lose coverage under the basic GM warranty (at 3yrs/36K) are extended under the Federal Emissions Warranty (5yrs/50K). And if you're in one of these states (Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, and Washington), then you get the California Emissions Warranty (7yrs/70K) on another list of parts (like the turbocharger, diesel fuel injection pump, diesel fuel injectors, DPF, etc.).

 

You can see a list of all the extended coverage parts and which warranties apply to them in your Limited Warranty and Owner Assistance Information booklet.

Posted

not me ... the deal is they sell it with the odds that they will make money vs you, the odds are in their favor - if you feel unlucky get it - just like going to the casino, the casino most always wins ...

 

beside it's 3 years / 36,000 and no need to buy it when brand new ... why buy coverage now that you won't use for 3/36 - they sell it any time under the 3/36 no questions asked, and if you total the truck you lose for sure ... just sayin

Posted (edited)
On 12/18/2020 at 5:14 PM, Cosmic Charlie said:

not me ... the deal is they sell it with the odds that they will make money vs you, the odds are in their favor - if you feel unlucky get it - just like going to the casino, the casino most always wins ...

 

beside it's 3 years / 36,000 and no need to buy it when brand new ... why buy coverage now that you won't use for 3/36 - they sell it any time under the 3/36 no questions asked, and if you total the truck you lose for sure ... just sayin

thats my feeling.....if they offer it for sure its good for them as they are in business of making money......and dealers dont have any exclusive right to extended warranties, whatever they sell at profit can be purchased by you individually......for alot cheaper

 

and yeah buy it when you need it nots when its a brand new truck thats covered

Edited by Dunn

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,253 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...