Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Wanted to know of anyone has purchased and installed the Keyless Entry pad that lets you punch in a code and have the doors unlock.  Lets you lock your keys in the truck.  Its part No. 84182981 and is about $120 bucks.  Thats one feature i miss from my Ford was the ability to lock the keys in my truck while i go for a run, or bike or swim....

  • Like 1
Posted

I had mine installed a week or so ago. Works good. We liked that feature from Ford's also. It was 145 plus an hour of labor to install while the dealership was installing my tow mirrors. They tried to charge 1.5 hrs@ $155/hr but they didn't give an estimate first and parts guy said an hr so they dropped.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, KADE206 said:

I had mine installed a week or so ago. Works good. We liked that feature from Ford's also. It was 145 plus an hour of labor to install while the dealership was installing my tow mirrors. They tried to charge 1.5 hrs@ $155/hr but they didn't give an estimate first and parts guy said an hr so they dropped.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I assume the keypad is battery powered?  Did they suggest to you how often to replace the batteries?

Posted
I assume the keypad is battery powered?  Did they suggest to you how often to replace the batteries?

I had to drop off before they opened and picked up after service closed so I didn't get any information really. Just a card with instructions and the master code. I tried albeit not too hard to remove the shroud to see if it was battery powered and I couldn't get it off. Your local service or parts department can tell you much more. Sorry


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Thanks for the reply.  Just ordered mine.  Looking forward to it.  Thats the one thing I miss most about my Ford.  That and the Key Fob letting me know if the truck actually started from the remote.  It had a feed back light that flashed green if it did start and red if it did not start, such as out of range or I didnt hit the buttons right.  I have already gone outside expecting a nice warm truck only to find I didnt hold the button long enough.  

Posted
7 hours ago, Xterrable said:

I assume the keypad is battery powered?  Did they suggest to you how often to replace the batteries?

You can't replace the battery.  You have to replace the whole unit when it dies.  Awful.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Salsa De Piña said:

You can't replace the battery.  You have to replace the whole unit when it dies.  Awful.

Well yea, that is pretty crappy....  Darn.  Lets hope it at least lets you know when it is going to die before it actually gives up.

Posted

If you want to lock your keys in the truck you hold the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons at the same time for a sec or two. That'll lock the truck with the keys in it. Continued pressing of those two buttons will fold the side mirrors(if your truck has that feature).

 

I'm still not sure how, or if, you can change the code to a personalized one.


 

Posted (edited)

It sucks that it had to be programmed by dealer, how hard would it have been to make it self programmable like the key fob.  Pisses me off to pay dealer 1.5 hours to program this thing. They literally wait longer to get the reply find from gm then it takes then to hook up and program it

Edited by Jeffrey Ethier
Posted

This is the instruction card that came with the keypad. The opposite side had the master code.

67a70ae1abad9b47c84f3990700fb879.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Bit of a Necrothread but does the Master code stop working after you program a personal code?  I just tried to set mine up, master code worked fine, so I tried setting a personal code.  I don't know if I didn't hit the buttons I thought I did (personally I think the split buttons 1/2, 3/4, etc. are easy to make a mistake on) but the code I thought I set does not work, and now neither does the master code.  Is this thing now just a brick?   

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,532 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...