Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey All, 

  I have a question. I want to remove my trans line thermostat. Will it be bad for the trans like running too cold I live in NJ. Why GM have a 190 degree thermostat is it for better performance. Is too cool an problem. I know too hot is but how bout. 

Posted

it is been stated many times, until 2014 every gm truck ran without the thermostat with no problems. i live in canada and removed mine, dont notice any difference in how the transmission works

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Great thanks. How many miles is there truck. How did you take out yours did you just remove it and the spring. I know where is Spring and the thermostat is like a housing will the oil still slow even out or is a baffle before its flow in and out. 

Posted
20 minutes ago, silveradosid said:

lots of videos out there to watch, i just flipped the inside parts. i have 130k miles on my truck

Wow great. I'll trting thanks. 

Posted

Hi Siveradosid,

   I flipped the thermostat in my transmission line. Like you did in NJ its 40 degrees I drove my truck and the trans temperature is not passing 110 degrees. How about yours? what temperature ?is your running at. 

Posted
1 hour ago, Tie said:

It's 110 too cool for the transmission. 

Until 2014 coolers on GM automatics were not regulated. That is no thermostat. The 6L80 was run from 2005 to 2013 without a whimper without a thermostat. No, that is not to cool. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

The other day I took a 65 mile trip to a place and it was 12-14 degrees outside, transmission got to 104-109 degrees. Pretty much what my 2012 truck got to in the cold weather +/- 10 degrees.

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

if you did the bypass mod, you can bring the temps up about 10-20 degrees by installing a full flow spin on filter without the anti drainback spin on oil filter. this puts pressure on the cooling line and and holds back the trans fluid from flowing freely thru the cooler.  i found a standard spin on filter with the anti drain back valve causes restriction and will increase the trans temp to the same level as the thermostat before deleting it.

 

I now got rid of my old spin on set up and went with a motorguard cartridge style (toilet paper roll) design, more surface area and no restrictions with drain back valves, also dialed down the trans fans to 190 degrees operation , before they never turned on until 220 degrees.

20210110_112727.jpg

Edited by flyingfool
Posted
2 hours ago, silveradosid said:

the temps here in ontario have been 20 to 30 degrees and my tranny runs at 104, in the summer when it was 80 degrees it ran 160

Great thanks! 

That info looks like the same way I think my will run in the summer too. And you didn't experience no hard shifting or lagin to change the gear from the transmission.

And how long ago you did the trans delete? 

Posted
10 hours ago, flyingfool said:

if you did the bypass mod, you can bring the temps up about 10-20 degrees by installing a full flow spin on filter without the anti drainback spin on oil filter. this puts pressure on the cooling line and and holds back the trans fluid from flowing freely thru the cooler.  i found a standard spin on filter with the anti drain back valve causes restriction and will increase the trans temp to the same level as the thermostat before deleting it.

 

I now got rid of my old spin on set up and went with a motorguard cartridge style (toilet paper roll) design, more surface area and no restrictions with drain back valves, also dialed down the trans fans to 190 degrees operation , before they never turned on until 220 degrees.

20210110_112727.jpg

Hi flying 

Can you send a link I can see parts or video installation to understand more. Thanks

Posted
3 hours ago, silveradosid said:

the temps here in ontario have been 20 to 30 degrees and my tranny runs at 104, in the summer when it was 80 degrees it ran 160

I live further south but run a colder water thermostat so about the same as yours. Chart in my previous post of three years.

18 minutes ago, Tie said:

Great thanks! 

That info looks like the same way I think my will run in the summer too. And you didn't experience no hard shifting or lagin to change the gear from the transmission.

And how long ago you did the trans delete? 

Been running delete for 4 years. Didn't plot this last year. Have my data.  Zero shift issues. Now at 135,000 miles (217,000 kilometers). I also run a PAO/POE based transmission fluid starting at 50K and do a drain and fill every 25K. Thing shifts mint.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,972
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Whit.the.COB
    Newest Member
    Whit.the.COB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,331 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...