Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 1/30/2021 at 4:39 PM, Brozat4 said:

Hello from a Canadian. My 2020 AT4 HD 3500 recently threw a check engine light, turns out it was heater #3 in my DEF tank. Two of my co workers have already had this issue months ago and now it's my turn. Dealership is saying 2 to 8 weeks for a new tank to come in. If it happened once its going to happen again next winter. 

 

I am SERIOUSLY considering getting it deleted and tuned with an Optimized Factory tune. Could someone who has already done this and is willing to answer some questions please PM me? It would be greatly appreciate. There is a few things I'd like to know before I drop $8000.

 

Thanks in advance!

do it in Calgary at Schultz diesel sports , much cheaper and highly recommended, I did my 2017 there this spring , 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

If you’re considering a delete kit for your 2018 Duramax, I can tell you from personal experience that it’s a worthwhile investment. A delete kit not only enhances performance by increasing horsepower and torque but also improves fuel efficiency. I found that removing the DPF and EGR components led to a noticeable difference in throttle response and overall power delivery.

Plus, the installation process was pretty straightforward, and the quality of the kit I used was top-notch. If you’re serious about maximizing your Duramax’s potential, I highly recommend checking out a reliable delete kit for the 2018 Duramax. It transformed my driving experience!

Posted
48 minutes ago, Jessica willliam said:

If you’re considering a delete kit for your 2018 Duramax, I can tell you from personal experience that it’s a worthwhile investment. A delete kit not only enhances performance by increasing horsepower and torque but also improves fuel efficiency. I found that removing the DPF and EGR components led to a noticeable difference in throttle response and overall power delivery.

Plus, the installation process was pretty straightforward, and the quality of the kit I used was top-notch. If you’re serious about maximizing your Duramax’s potential, I highly recommend checking out a reliable delete kit for the 2018 Duramax. It transformed my driving experience!

And now back to our regularly scheduled programming..

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Here is some interesting... The Chevron Deference was repealed. So what is the Chevron Deference?

 

"The U.S. Supreme Court has overturned the decades-old Chevron doctrine of judicial deference to a federal agency’s interpretation of an ambiguous statute."

 

What is a Deferance?

"Deference is a legal principle that involves a court or other authority yielding to another legitimate party's judgment or decision"

 

With that being said, the EPA might lost their fangs. Most of the Fed Agencies regs were made intentionally vague with the sole purpose to give the agencies wiggle room to interpret them in any way they want.

 

Now, if a group challenge the EPA so called "Experts" in court, stating the DEF, DPF and all the extra nonesense increase fuel consumption, CO2 levels, and throws Ammonia into the atmosphere, might get a good chance to remove legaly all these pesky crap-o-la devices. Not only that, DEF shortages could create a potential risk to national security (paralizing the trucking industry), due the imports of this "Piss Fluid."

 

This not only apply to the EPA, it applies to all Agencies.

 

Perhaps, we are going to see some changes on the emissions tests (Dieselgate) and the usage of the Exhaust Piss Fluid.

Edited by 2500W/T
  • 1 year later...
Posted

One of the things I like about the L5P is how clean it runs with no exhaust smell.

 

My hope would be to run the reduced setup but still have the cat to help clean the exhaust. Getting rid of the DEF DPF and EGR would be good for engine longevity and reliability.

 

How stinky are those deletes? I am not looking at rolling coal these days, had that with my TDI and those days are behind me now! 😉 

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Deleted my L5P a while back and it's been running strong. The 4" delete pipe + tune was the way to go for me. Much better throttle response and no more worrying about the emissions stuff

  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/9/2026 at 10:35 PM, DroppingDiesel said:

Deleted my L5P a while back and it's been running strong. The 4" delete pipe + tune was the way to go for me. Much better throttle response and no more worrying about the emissions stuff

Did you do this after the warranty expired? Or still under warranty? I am guessing the warranty would be void. 

I am trying to find a happy middle ground on this by perhaps keeping the cat but removing everything else.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,924
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    KirbyCo
    Newest Member
    KirbyCo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,472 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...