Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
The battery has been running down on my 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 if it isn't started / driven in ~weeks time. Using a multi-meter between the Neg Post & Cable, I was able to verify an initial current draw of ~2 amps, then it drops off to ~1/2 amp. But then it pulses between 1/2 amp & a negligible draw. Pulling fuses, I narrowed it down to the DIC (Driver Information) circuit (aka Gauge Cluster). If that fuse is pulled, it stops the drain.  Unfortunately, that fuse is necessary for the gauges to function, so it can't be left out.  Also, I did notice the Odometer reading pulsing on & off occasionally when I was checking the current draw.
 
This isn't my Daily Driver anymore, so it sits for 1-2 weeks between being driven.  Several months ago, I noticed the Odometer display would get stuck cycling between the various languages. I could usually get it to settle down, but not always. Can't remember if this started before or after I experienced the dead battery issue. Finally decided the old battery needed replaced & I bought a replacement. It stayed charged for a few weeks before I went out one day to drive the truck & it was dead again. Jump it off & it runs fine.
 
Can the gauge cluster be easily repaired? Can I swap in another cluster from a roughly same year range truck? I know the mileage would be off, but can it be reprogrammed to match the old cluster?
Posted (edited)

you could do that if you think that is where the PD is. Or since you dont use the truck anymore, go and buy your self a battery shut off for 13 dollars and just reset your clock when you are using it. https://www.amazon.com/Side-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N72FES and the 2nd part of your question the answer is no, you cant change the hours or mileage as it is stored in the cluster,  otherwise people would just shave off 100k before the sale. 

Edited by Sharpz
Posted

I wouldn't bother with swapping the DIC in a truck that old. I would either buy a battery shutoff or add a battery tender and keep it plugged in while the truck is unused. 

Posted

I have repaired my own cluster for the "dim shifter"... its not hard if you are familiar with soldering.... the whole took about 30mins including the time it took to remove the cluster and reinstall it... hour tops if you include the time waiting for the soldering iron to heat up and putting stuff away

 

Presuming you can locate the cracked solder joints for this power problem it should be pretty easy to repair.

 

with that said, I think that $200 is probably fair for a complete rebuild including new motors... but like the other guys said, not sure its worth that sort of money for a truck so old... but a worthwhile DIY project.

 

Posted

What is happening is there is silver migration on the circuit board from the soft silver solder they used when assembling the circuit boards. The soft solder can cause a short within the tiny holes on the board. It can cause the DIC to display solid squares or goofy characters or a parasitic draw which will drain the battery over a few days. Have it rebuilt with the lifetime warranty. GM Gauge Repairs does complete rebuilds for 125 to 140. https://www.gmgaugerepair.com/chevrolet-instrument-cluster-repair/digital-gauge-cluster/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 806 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
    • Checked the pads today and there's plenty of meat on them. If the message keeps coming up, I'll just answer YES that the pads were replaced and wait for the squeal.
    • Welcome to the Forum! Always post the code definitions along with the codes. there are over 18000 possible codes, no one remembers them all and most will skip over your post rather than look them up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...