Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all. I'm looking to get back into a Chevy truck after 2 Rams. The only engine I want is the 6.2 with the 10spd and max tow. We will probably be towing a travel trailer down the road and was looking to see what the payload is on the LTZ and RST trucks. As everyone knows there are zero trucks around to look at so I'm looking for some help. Thanks

Posted

My LTZ max tow 6.2 payload is 1,914 pounds.

 

You can figure a lighter equipped LTZ or RST would be bit higher.

Posted

My max tow LTZ has 1910 lbs of payload.  But you need to look at the yellow driver door jamb sticker of each truck you're interested in in order to get the exact payload capacity of that particular truck.  But the real question is, how much does your trailer weigh fully loaded?  Multiply that amount by 13 percent for a WAG on your tongue weight if it's a travel trailer you're looking to tow.  Too many people try to push the extreme limits of a half ton when they really should be looking at a 3/4 ton or one ton.

Posted
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

Trailer rating for 6.2 max tow crew cab 4wd will be around 11,900

The problem with that figure is it's based on a 10 percent tongue weight.  A travel trailer will be closer to a 13 percent tongue weight, meaning you'll exceed hitch weight limit if you try to tow 11,900 lbs.

Posted
Trailer rating for 6.2 max tow crew cab 4wd will be around 11,900
I thought GM said a RST 6.2 Max Tow crew cab 4wd was 13,300

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
11 hours ago, AlaskaErik said:

My max tow LTZ has 1910 lbs of payload.  But you need to look at the yellow driver door jamb sticker of each truck you're interested in in order to get the exact payload capacity of that particular truck.  But the real question is, how much does your trailer weigh fully loaded?  Multiply that amount by 13 percent for a WAG on your tongue weight if it's a travel trailer you're looking to tow.  Too many people try to push the extreme limits of a half ton when they really should be looking at a 3/4 ton or one ton.

Yes I guess I should have asked for everyone to respond with their door sticker. We are looking at a TT around 5k unload. Thanks

Posted

As far as max payload we don't plan on getting near that. If I can get at least 1900 payload from a LTZ then a RST I would think be just a little higher. This where the Ram falls short but they offer a bigger fuel tank which takes away from their smaller payload a little more.

Posted (edited)

I don’t know why so many people b!tch@ about the small fuel tank??  It’s the perfect size, it keeps weight down, which increases payload and fuel economy. 
So what if you have to stop one more time.  90% or higher who have trucks, have families and it’s a great time to get out, stretch your legs, get a snack and a restroom break. I’ve never found it as a hinderance when driving up I29 going to my lake house
Oh and I would go with an LTZ fully loaded. I like the chrome bumper. My High Country is painted and it’s got a little road rash. My 2018 SLT Sierra had a chrome bumper and it was perfect after 2 harsh winters. Good luck with your decision 

Edited by TNTSilverado
Posted

TNTSilverado I agree about the fuel tank size. Nowadays I like to stop and stretch my retired body haha. I didn't tow with either Ram truck and didn't have the the larger tank. My main thing is getting the highest payload and performance I can get from a 1/2 ton and have a comfy interior without going to a 3/4 ton.

  • Like 1
Posted

I agree with TNT, but for the reasons JJ wants. The LTZ is more comfy. You'll pay more for it, too. LTZ has heated and cooled seats. RST will only have heated seats. LTZ has factory navigation and Android Auto/Apple Carplay. RST will only have Android Auto/Apple Carplay. There are a few other creature comforts the LTZ has. It all depends on what you want and how much you're willing to spend.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Transient said:

I thought GM said a RST 6.2 Max Tow crew cab 4wd was 13,300

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

The only one in the chart that shows 13,300 is on the 6.2  DC 4wd with NHT (CK10753)

Requires 20" wheels.  When equipped with 18: wheels the rating of the CK10753 drops to 12,100. 

 

Chart ignores trim level truck weight differences.

 

 

Edited by redwngr
Posted

Payload and towing will depend on configuration and options. My RST has a crew cab, 6.5 bed, 6.2, 10 speed, max tow. Trailering capacity is 11,900 and payload is 1806. It has the fancy tailgate and moonroof so that's eating up some payload. A couple options that I could do without but its what was available. Coming from a Lariat Ultimate to an RST I do miss some of the creature comforts, but all that comes with a cost. I guess it depends on what you are used to and what options are important. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Transient said:

I agree with TNT, but for the reasons JJ wants. The LTZ is more comfy. You'll pay more for it, too. LTZ has heated and cooled seats. RST will only have heated seats. LTZ has factory navigation and Android Auto/Apple Carplay. RST will only have Android Auto/Apple Carplay. There are a few other creature comforts the LTZ has. It all depends on what you want and how much you're willing to spend.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

My LTZ does not have factory nav.

Posted

Navigation comes in LTZ Convenience Package II, which is also a part of the LTZ Premium Package.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 5,246 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...