Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Have to replace front struts and rear shocks on my 2014 1500, and will be doing upper and lower control arms as well. I’ve a friend doing the work for me, but I need to get the parts to do it.

 

Regarding the control arms, will any upper/lower work (Moog, Kryptonite, etc) or is there a specific one for the lowers dependent on which control arms I currently have (steel/aluminum)?

 

Will be replacing my Fox 2.0s, haven’t decided if I’m sticking with them, or going to Bilsteins this time around.

Posted

I have take offs from my 2015 Silverado 1500 with 30,000 miles if you want stock. I’d sell for cheap. Also have stock struts if interested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, chrispassas21 said:

I have take offs from my 2015 Silverado 1500 with 30,000 miles if you want stock. I’d sell for cheap. Also have stock struts if interested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No thanks, I’ve already replaced the stock shocks and this will be the second time replacing the uppers/lowers, hence the question.

  • Like 1
Posted

The knuckles are different for trucks with Forged vs. Aluminum arms so they won't interchange.  Ball joint stud hole size is different on the knuckles. 

 

If you go OE and you have forged steel arms, GM still makes those and you can get them.  If you have aluminum arms, GM discontinued those and the OE replacements are the stamped steel ones off of 2016-2018 trucks.  You will see this with aftermarket OE replacements from Moog, Mevotech, etc. but those guys make forged for forged, and then for aluminum arms they do both the stamped and the aluminum from what I've seen.   

 

You will see this option on arms from Kryptonite and other aftermarket modified arms as well the KRUCA12 arms are for factory forged and the KRUCA13 is for factory aluminum or stamped.  

 

Posted
1 minute ago, newdude said:

The knuckles are different for trucks with Forged vs. Aluminum arms so they won't interchange.  Ball joint stud hole size is different on the knuckles. 

 

If you go OE and you have forged steel arms, GM still makes those and you can get them.  If you have aluminum arms, GM discontinued those and the OE replacements are the stamped steel ones off of 2016-2018 trucks.  You will see this with aftermarket OE replacements from Moog, Mevotech, etc. but those guys make forged for forged, and then for aluminum arms they do both the stamped and the aluminum from what I've seen.   

 

You will see this option on arms from Kryptonite and other aftermarket modified arms as well the KRUCA12 arms are for factory forged and the KRUCA13 is for factory aluminum or stamped.  

 

Thanks, kind of what I thought. Would there be any benefit to aftermarket? Longer life span etc? I average about 35k a year on my truck.

Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, cjlet said:

Thanks, kind of what I thought. Would there be any benefit to aftermarket? Longer life span etc? I average about 35k a year on my truck.

 

 

Stock or leveled?  If leveled, aftermarket upper arms like Kryptonite or Cognito have altered angles for better ball joint life when leveled.  

 

Arms like Kryptonite have the ability to replace the upper joints easy as they are bolt in.  OE and OE replacement uppers are most of the time part of the arm and not replaceable.  

 

Lower ball joints on the other hand are almost always replaceable in the OE and OE replacement arms.  

Edited by newdude
Posted
4 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

Stock or leveled?  If leveled, aftermarket upper arms like Kryptonite or Cognito have altered angles for better ball joint life when leveled.  

 

Arms like Kryptonite have the ability to replace the upper joints easy as they are bolt in.  OE and OE replacement uppers are most of the time part of the arm and not replaceable.  

 

Lower ball joints on the other hand are almost always replaceable in the OE and OE replacement arms.  

It’s leveled. 

Posted

this may be something to be concerned about *Our Control Arms will NOT fit with most OE Wheels on the 6 Lug Trucks. Please double check clearances before driving as contact and damage may result. just read this on the kryptonite site

Posted (edited)

That is a very valid concern as it is not tire rub it is rim rub, dealing with this now.  The cognito's state they will work with factory wheels but I dont have experience there.

I just put on an Eibach E80-23-006-02-22 suspension kit at lowest setting so 2.5" lift and did the kryptonite UCA's after talking with kryptonite support.  I was hesitant to go with it then pulled the trigger now I wish I would have waiting longer for better answers.

 

Long story short I am probably going to have to eat the expense on the kryptonites since I have new tires Michelin Defender(stock size) and wanted to stay with factory wheels.  The options I have as I see it are new wheels, possibly a 1/2" hub/wheel centric spacer but the issue there is tire place wont touch with spacer, or order new control arms.

I am usually pretty good on research and getting my ducks in a row so I am a little pissed at myself here.

Also it is a holiday weekend so getting answers is a PITA.

Edited by rlnthndr
Posted (edited)

As for what else was done I have aluminum lower control arms and replaced the lower ball joint with the Moog-K500245, this was a little work to swap but not bad. 

Edited by rlnthndr
Posted
On 4/4/2021 at 9:49 AM, rlnthndr said:

That is a very valid concern as it is not tire rub it is rim rub, dealing with this now.  The cognito's state they will work with factory wheels but I dont have experience there.

I just put on an Eibach E80-23-006-02-22 suspension kit at lowest setting so 2.5" lift and did the kryptonite UCA's after talking with kryptonite support.  I was hesitant to go with it then pulled the trigger now I wish I would have waiting longer for better answers.

 

Long story short I am probably going to have to eat the expense on the kryptonites since I have new tires Michelin Defender(stock size) and wanted to stay with factory wheels.  The options I have as I see it are new wheels, possibly a 1/2" hub/wheel centric spacer but the issue there is tire place wont touch with spacer, or order new control arms.

I am usually pretty good on research and getting my ducks in a row so I am a little pissed at myself here.

Also it is a holiday weekend so getting answers is a PITA.

 

Other than the UCA issue, how do you like the Eibachs? Debating on those with some Motofab UCAs.

Posted
I have take offs from my 2015 Silverado 1500 with 30,000 miles if you want stock. I’d sell for cheap. Also have stock struts if interested.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you still have these and are they the rancho shocks? How much are you asking for them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Do you still have these and are they the rancho shocks? How much are you asking for them?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do still have these. My truck is a z-71, so yes the shocks are rancho. If you are still interested PM me so we don’t jack this thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

So far I like them.  Just drove 3 hours out to a travel baseball tournament and 3 hours back.  Drive as good as the factory less body roll in corners at speed, etc.... Maybe a bit stiffer in some aspects but I like that.

 

Hitting neighborhood speed bumps is night and day better.  Have not hauled my boat yet either but again I am happy so far.

Posted
10 hours ago, rlnthndr said:

So far I like them.  Just drove 3 hours out to a travel baseball tournament and 3 hours back.  Drive as good as the factory less body roll in corners at speed, etc.... Maybe a bit stiffer in some aspects but I like that.

 

Hitting neighborhood speed bumps is night and day better.  Have not hauled my boat yet either but again I am happy so far.

Thanks. Now I’m kind of looking at different UCAs, but still thinking the same struts. Glad to get some recent feedback regarding the shocks/struts!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,180 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
    • "Life is getting back to normal."    I'm driving again and all new joints are operating as expected for this stage of recovery.   My most recent joint replacement still requires a lot of attention but experience has taught me that time will quiet the remaining pain.  I joked with my surgeon that another joint replacement would take my mind off my most recent surgery and he responded by saying the next will be a hip!  There are no plans for another surgery but, unlike me, I don't think he was joking!  I certainly wouldn't refuse further replacement  if required but hope to spend time out of the "post-op"  period.  I can't stress enough that if you have been recommended for total hip, knee or shoulder replacement that you welcome the offer.  Post-op "recovery" may sound daunting and painful, however, this is far better than the insidious erosion of mobility you are currently experiencing.  Imagine what it would feel like to wake up most mornings feeling better and more mobile than you did the previous day!  Prior to my first surgery in June 2025, even getting out of bed was becoming a formidable task.  Since the day after my first surgery, I get out of bed everyday easily and unassisted.  Making the switch to feeling a little better each day rather than a little worse, is hugely motivating!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...