Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The biggest thing is backspacing on the wheels for uca's.

 

For me I was wanting to keep my factory 20s that have 6 " backspace.  A spacer could have fixed but I am not a fan of that and some tire places can give you crap on them as well.

 

So it is either new wheels and/or tires, stick with factory ucas, or go cognito in my case.  Already bought the kryptonites not spending more than I have to at this point t so went back with factory ucas for now.  I mean in reality the originals went 80k

Posted

Yeah, I need to figure that part out I suppose. Probably going to need to reach out to the manufacturers to see what will work.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/11/2021 at 12:50 PM, cjlet said:

 

Other than the UCA issue, how do you like the Eibachs? Debating on those with some Motofab UCAs.

I'll warn you about the Motofab UCAs.  I've had mine for about two months, and one of the bushings is already failing. 

Posted
11 hours ago, jabba7 said:

I'll warn you about the Motofab UCAs.  I've had mine for about two months, and one of the bushings is already failing. 

Good to know. Thanks!

Posted
On 4/26/2021 at 8:37 AM, jabba7 said:

I'll warn you about the Motofab UCAs.  I've had mine for about two months, and one of the bushings is already failing. 

I beg to differ - I've had mine for three months now and have had zero issues.
I think mine have updated bushings for the version I bought.
I'm running a 3" level and the bushings align very straight to the bushing mount.
Also, these bushings have zerk fittings for grease if ever they get dry - instructions mentions NOT to grease them on install as the are pre-greased from the factory.

Posted

So, ultimately I decided to go with the same setup for struts and shocks. Fox 2.0 coil overs and 2.0 on the rear. 
 

Should I swap my UCA for something after market, or stick with OEM and upgrade the ball joint? Should I replace the LCA, or upgrade the lower ball joint?

 

Angles aren’t bad, but they’re also not the stock angle.

Posted (edited)

Hmm, reached out to Kryptonite and they said I’ll rub with my setup. I’m running 20x9 +12 wheels and a 275/60/20 tire. Fox 2.0 Struts. They suggested wheels with more back spacing, or spacers, which I don’t want to do.

 

Anyone know if I’ll run into the same issue with Cognitos? Or for that matter, if there are UCAs that I won’t have issues with? Can always go with the stock UCAs I suppose

Edited by cjlet
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

What about JBA? I don't see too many people using them here but the toyota guys love them. I think the caveat is they only work with a cast iron steering knuckle/spindle. On the newer gm vehicles (2016+) they came aluminum is my understanding, this is route I'm planning on going with my 2015 unless I get any compelling arguments for a different option 

https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-hd-upper-a-arms-for-2007-2015-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra.html

Edited by RJSmithers
Posted (edited)

I wanted JBA but they didn't have any for mine...I am running cognito on 3 in front lift on my T1 with stock tires and it clears....reason I got them cuz I read they would....I would assume if they say they will they should 

20210510_192033.jpg

20210510_192047.jpg

Edited by Dunn
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...