Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2020 Silverado 1500 Double Cab that I'm considering lowering 3 inches in front and 5 in the back.  I've investigated the IHC kit because it claims no frame mods are needed.  Since my truck is a 2020 I don't want a C notch or other cuts to the frame.  I'd appreciate comments from anyone who has accomplished modification.  Thank You

Posted

I’ve had the kit for 5 months now.  It’s my first ever lowered truck.  I gotta be honest...I love the look but I hate the ride.  With my previous trucks and with this one when it was stock, I wouldn’t even blink an eye at potholes or curbs.  But with a lowered truck and low profile tires there’s no such thing as “monster trucking” over obstacles.  I knew that going in but I thought I would’ve got used to it by now.  


Anyways regarding the kit itself...plus and minuses.  The 5” rear drop is not really a 5” drop.  You need to run at least 5-10lbs of air in them always.  Otherwise you’ll bottom out if there’s no air.  IHC will even tell u that if u don’t run air in the bags then you’ll need to notch the frame.  The bags are a plus tho.  You can air up the bags to 50psi and tow a trailer with no rear squat.  Their front control arms are unable to get 0 camber on alignment.  You’ll get all greens but there’s still a slight negative camber.  Take that for what you want but just thought I’d let you know.  The front does drop 3 inches so no complaint with that.  I would recommend swapping out the struts and shocks to Belltech.  IHC does provide rear shocks but the Belltechs are better IMO.  Not needed, but I would also recommend to upgrade to moog balljoints.  You’ll need to buy bumpstops too.  Requires you to cut the rear bump stops off the frame.  Just get those pancake style bumpstops with the self tapping screws.  Sorry kinda lengthy but let me know if you have questions.  I know I mentioned more negatives than anything but honestly I really do love the look of my truck.  Side note, maxtrac also makes a 3/5 kit.

Posted
2 hours ago, KriptiK said:

I’ve had the kit for 5 months now.  It’s my first ever lowered truck.  I gotta be honest...I love the look but I hate the ride.  With my previous trucks and with this one when it was stock, I wouldn’t even blink an eye at potholes or curbs.  But with a lowered truck and low profile tires there’s no such thing as “monster trucking” over obstacles.  I knew that going in but I thought I would’ve got used to it by now.  


Anyways regarding the kit itself...plus and minuses.  The 5” rear drop is not really a 5” drop.  You need to run at least 5-10lbs of air in them always.  Otherwise you’ll bottom out if there’s no air.  IHC will even tell u that if u don’t run air in the bags then you’ll need to notch the frame.  The bags are a plus tho.  You can air up the bags to 50psi and tow a trailer with no rear squat.  Their front control arms are unable to get 0 camber on alignment.  You’ll get all greens but there’s still a slight negative camber.  Take that for what you want but just thought I’d let you know.  The front does drop 3 inches so no complaint with that.  I would recommend swapping out the struts and shocks to Belltech.  IHC does provide rear shocks but the Belltechs are better IMO.  Not needed, but I would also recommend to upgrade to moog balljoints.  You’ll need to buy bumpstops too.  Requires you to cut the rear bump stops off the frame.  Just get those pancake style bumpstops with the self tapping screws.  Sorry kinda lengthy but let me know if you have questions.  I know I mentioned more negatives than anything but honestly I really do love the look of my truck.  Side note, maxtrac also makes a 3/5 kit.

Is there anything out there less aggressive? I wouldn't mind a 1-2 inch drop, and I love the 3-5 look. But I really don't want to deal with the issues that come from something that low. 

Posted
6 hours ago, 1454 said:

Is there anything out there less aggressive? I wouldn't mind a 1-2 inch drop, and I love the 3-5 look. But I really don't want to deal with the issues that come from something that low. 

If you don’t want to do a rear flip kit, the simplest would be to do a drop shackle.  There’s 2” drop shackles that’ll get you level with the stock front.  Or, you could go with one of maxtrac 2/4 lowering kits.  They lower the front either with lowering struts or spindles and the rear would be a combination of hanger and shackle.

  • Like 1
  • 8 months later...
Posted
On 5/21/2021 at 6:53 AM, KriptiK said:

I’ve had the kit for 5 months now.  It’s my first ever lowered truck.  I gotta be honest...I love the look but I hate the ride.  With my previous trucks and with this one when it was stock, I wouldn’t even blink an eye at potholes or curbs.  But with a lowered truck and low profile tires there’s no such thing as “monster trucking” over obstacles.  I knew that going in but I thought I would’ve got used to it by now.  


Anyways regarding the kit itself...plus and minuses.  The 5” rear drop is not really a 5” drop.  You need to run at least 5-10lbs of air in them always.  Otherwise you’ll bottom out if there’s no air.  IHC will even tell u that if u don’t run air in the bags then you’ll need to notch the frame.  The bags are a plus tho.  You can air up the bags to 50psi and tow a trailer with no rear squat.  Their front control arms are unable to get 0 camber on alignment.  You’ll get all greens but there’s still a slight negative camber.  Take that for what you want but just thought I’d let you know.  The front does drop 3 inches so no complaint with that.  I would recommend swapping out the struts and shocks to Belltech.  IHC does provide rear shocks but the Belltechs are better IMO.  Not needed, but I would also recommend to upgrade to moog balljoints.  You’ll need to buy bumpstops too.  Requires you to cut the rear bump stops off the frame.  Just get those pancake style bumpstops with the self tapping screws.  Sorry kinda lengthy but let me know if you have questions.  I know I mentioned more negatives than anything but honestly I really do love the look of my truck.  Side note, maxtrac also makes a 3/5 kit.

So I keep flip flopping back and forth about this IHC 3/5 kit for my double cab. My main concern is towing my 20ft toy hauler with my race bikes in it. I've never used helper bags before, have you towed anything like that with your kit? Or is this idea out to lunch? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 501 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...