Jump to content

2003 Sierra Denali

Forkliftfranky12
 Share

Recommended Posts

Forkliftfranky12 New Member

Forkliftfranky12

Posted
Posted

New member here but not new to this generation truck. I am about to aquire a 2003 Sierra Denali Quadrasteer. Truck needs some TLC but I'm pretty excited to have another truck from this generation. Now one of my questions is it being 18 years old and it only has 155k miles on it what do I need to replace or look into first? Also the bed caps are missing what can I put in it's place as a replacement?

 

I used to have 2003 Silverado SS about 10 years ago now but it had low mileage so I didn't really have to do much in terms of maintenance besides a starter and brakes. Thanks

received_1024240481717955.jpeg

received_220069113277139.jpeg

received_1430143117363475.jpeg

received_1278385992596701.jpeg

received_157482386426354.jpeg

received_3079805735639299.jpeg

received_818155562162547.jpeg

received_388756362571142.jpeg

received_945110542724368.jpeg

received_163038809201165.jpeg

received_828039841482108.jpeg

received_489806062096785.jpeg

received_204736324853275.jpeg

received_1200868060341474.jpeg

received_797970527756701.jpeg

received_813430325945277.jpeg

received_487588442508684.jpeg

received_1664215723762402.jpeg

received_4285166481541994.jpeg

received_2612554072383483.jpeg

Sharpz Enthusiast

Sharpz

Posted
Posted

If it were me I would be looking mostly into the drive train and undercarriage. Check for noises, rust, etc.  I see you have some body damage and rust on places on the exterior, plus the interior floor carpet looks like someone hauled a Torque converter upside down in there.  As it has been said before on this site, if anything is wrong with the drive train, rears etc it is very costly to fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • DustMcGrath
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By DustMcGrath · Posted

      First of all sorry, I know there are a ton of transmission temperature threads...   My truck is a 2025 LZ0 High (10l89 10-speed) High Country with NHT max trailering package. The NHT package is supposed to have "enhanced cooling."   Normally the trans temp sits around 200. It seems like with any real stress it quickly jumps into the 220s (for example climbing a grade unloaded at lower speeds). I haven't towed much with this truck, but I'm concerned if it gets this hot unloaded.    I've tried a few different things to keep the temps down (tow/haul mode, sport mode, low range when that makes sense) and nothing seems to affect it.    I'm curious if others are the same behavior or if anyone has found techniques to keep the temps down. It seems like it just can't handle reduced airflow at lower speeds, even with relatively light loading.    Thanks!      
    • cautious optimist
      2027 3.0 l Duramax

      By cautious optimist · Posted

      I'm at 105,000 miles on my baby Duramax. No issues yet. I hit 31 mpg's traveling through hilly terrain to a project in Colorado. I will buy another 3.0. I'm not concerned.
    • cautious optimist
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By cautious optimist · Posted

      I'm glad you have 14,000 trouble free miles. Frankly though, that's a really low bar. A bare minimum of 80,000 trouble free miles as the norm (rare exceptions always exist) across the whole model year should be a starting point. Good maintenance habits should push these past the 100,000 mile mark with only the most minor of issues. Let's hope GM truly leveled up the quality game with these new engines and exploding engines under 50,000 miles are gone. 
    • Atlas
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Atlas · Posted

      This is exactly the reason our EV has consumed so much of my driving. I don't want to fire up a cold diesel or gas engine just to drive 2 miles up to the store. It's arguably terrible for an engine. If I'm not driving at least 10 miles and don't need to do truck things, the truck stays parked.   Enter the EV. It's immediately heating or cooling the cabin as needed (heat pump). An engine doesn't need to warm up or be driven gently. I can tear off in it with ZERO guilt. Move the car 1/4 mile from store to store and not think "gee, I'm short-cycling a lukewarm engine".   It doesn't idle in a drive-through. Doesn't idle at stop lights. (OK, neither would the diesel, if I let stop-start have its way, but I don't).   Even moving it out of the garage to wash it... HA! It doesn't need to be started just to move 40 feet. I have cars that I will actually put in neutral and push (no start) in/out of the garage or shop if they absolutely HAVE to be moved. My nice Camaros.
    • ducky911
      side view camera

      By ducky911 · Posted

      Some trailer plugs don't work. This one worked for me. Been using it for two years no issues. Amazon.com: Reese Trailer Plug Adapter, 7-Way Male Plug to 7-Way Female Plug, LED Lamp Out By-Pass, Plastic, Black, Each : Automotive

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...