Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This 5.3 has an oil leak I cannot find. We are at 268K and I don’t know the life for the first 220K. My dad bought the truck with 220K and we swapped it back and forth for a while until we both moved on to other rides. The truck was purchased and while that person had it, this leak started. They parked it for two years and didn’t run it. I finally got it back. It still runs great. Oil leak is pretty bad though. I can’t find the source. From what I can tell It’s not rear main. The bottom of bellhousing is dry, flex plate appears dry through viewing window. The leak is showing up much further back, so my best guess is that it’s leaking from above the bell housing and running down. Most of it accumulates and drips off the corner of the transmission pan around the shifter linkage. I just changed valve cover gaskets and PCV valve while I was there. Leak showed no change before/after VCG change. I am at a loss of where too look next. Oil pressure sensor I’ve seen mentioned online. I got my hand back there and felt around and didn’t come out with any new oil on my fingers. Granted that’s not a very foolproof check. Another note, it only leaks while running. Not sure if that helps. 
 

any ideas on where to check next? 

47A0A35C-86E3-4D4D-8519-B40AA5B5BF3D.jpeg

B6584704-4BF5-43D2-9170-5AAFF57CCC6E.jpeg

F65E0494-69DF-47FE-A1B0-78A6799E2E20.jpeg

Posted

The oil pressure switch and the camshaft sensor o-ring are going to be the main leaks at the very rear of the engine. You could also have leaking valve cover gaskets on the back side.

 

ccrp_0803_03_z-msd_ignition_timing_rev_c

 

 

I would clean everything really really good. Get some degreaser, some oven cleaner, spray it all down and let it soak then wash it all away.

 

You'll probably want to remove the intake manifold to clean everything and replace the o-ring in the back. Good time to do intake gaskets while you're in there.

Posted

Thanks for that. I will work on pulling the intake and inspect. Is there any way to check for leaks once intake manifold is off? The leak is only active with the engine running. I really don’t want to guess work getting this deep but not sure how to check. I don’t want to pull this, change the gaskets mentioned, put it together only to see the same thing. 

Posted

A probe camera or like a borescope camera would let you see the leak prior to taking stuff apart.

 

I suppose you could disable the fuel pump and unplug the coils with the intake manifold off, then use the stater motor to spin the engine over a bunch. That will engage the oil pump and push oil through the engine but the oil pressure will be far less than when running. It may or may not let you see the leak. There isn't much else to check back there. I rarely see the valley cover gasket leak and drip oil because oil doesn't really get splashed up there nor is it under pressure.

Posted

I believe once the intake is off you will be able to see the leak.]

If it was me with that many miles and if you plan on keeping it I would replace all parts on the back of the motor.

Posted

This isn’t my daily driver, so I am using it to expand my knowledge. I’ve worked on small engines, boat motors and such, but only done accessories previously. I have a decent understanding of how the thing works, but everytime I tear into it, it’s my first time seeing that deep into the engine in person. I’ve watched videos on it all but just not sure what to look at past the obvious. I’ll get the intanke off and see what all I can see. 

Posted

Got the intake off, haven’t had a chance to inspect it all just yet. I had some fresh oil on the pressure sending unit, but the leak isn’t active unless the engine is running so I figure I’ll just be looking for the newest oil I can find. I’ve got my eyes on oil pressure sending unit, can position sensor o-ring, intake gasket. 
 

Is there anything else I should be specifically looking for while intake is off? 

Posted (edited)

The pros clean the engine and put a dye in the oil that fluoresces under a black light and run the engine and look for glowing oil. There is some thing about a valve or port on the back of a 5.3 that leaks, mine does I believe. Look into that....

Push comes to shove I suppose you could get a banjo bolt and oil pump feed line on the oil pan drain, put a  an electric pump on the feed line to move the oil at operating pressure, like a pre lubing system....

Edited by dna9656
Corrections
Posted (edited)

I had a similar problem with my 2003 Silverado 1500 vortec 4.3L V-6.  Turned out to be a blown head gasket.  I was also losing coolant but it didn't show up in the oil.  That turned out to be the water pump.  The bad water pump may have caused overheating which may be why the head gasket blew.  I was told by an old schooler that my year range GM pickups had a problem with head gaskets being manufactured too thin and blowing between 80-100K.

Edited by wayne white
Posted

I have thought about head gasket but from what I can tell I am not losing coolant. Granted I can’t run it very long because I’m losing about half a quart of oil by the time I get to operating temp.

 

Posted

I’ve got fresh oil around the oil pressure sensor. Also the intake manifold appears to have been bad, but it’s dry soot, no wet oil on or around the valley cover/knock sensors. 
 

question, oil pressure sending unit works still, but leaking. Is there supposed to be an o-ring or is this metal ring the proper seal? Photo is attached of what I have. Can I seal this anyway or should I just replace?

9BDEEA27-C8E8-4221-B9E2-DE7D63FD8463.jpeg

Posted

Nope no o-ring, just metal washers. I'm looking at one right now.

 

Leaking sensors that failed internally can be common

 

Posted

Replace it then. Heard that. Now that you mention it, I think there was some oil up top when I removed the first plastic connection. I thought it was normal but an internal failure makes sense. 

Posted

Get an OEM sensor too. I know they cost more but I've had so much trouble with aftermarket sensors in the past. The $30-40 parts store sensor always die.

Posted

Just wanted to post a major thanks to you all for the input. Got it put back together with new oil pressure sensor, cam position sensor o-ring, and intake gasket. Along with valve cover gaskets that i did prior to this post. we appear to be leak free, and come to find my oil pressure sensor was bad. i has been sitting around 35 on a cold start but with the new sensor I am now reading around 55 at cold start. thanks for the knowledge shared!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...