Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
23 hours ago, SteveCZ said:

Oh, you mean like running different (heavier) weight oil than the manual states, because "0w20 looks way too thin when I pour it in the engine", or "I don't need to run this fancy synthetic witchcraft oil in my truck, I can put 1960's straight 30 weight as long as I change it every 3000 miles!"  

Because the engineers that designed these engines didn't spend ANY time analyzing data.........  🤣

 

I run Redline 5w-30 in my hemi, manual calls for 5w-20. The RL 30 is so thick it's almost a 40 weight. But the hemi was designed in early 2000's and called for a 30 weight back then, and the 6.4 and SRT hemis call for 0w-40 weights still even though they are pretty much all the same engine.

 

So to your point "engineer's know best", they probably do. But they don't write the service manual, and even though they most definitely would prefer the 30/40 weight oils, the 20 weight is in the manual because FCA needs to increase their corporate MPG. Using water for oil kills our engines (especially if you work them hard while towing), but helps them out corporately. So the manual says use 20 weight, but they really do need a 30 or 40 weight.

 

Sometimes it pays to look into it instead of blindly thinking your interests are the same as GM's/Ram's interests.

Posted
2 hours ago, the wanderer said:

 

I run Redline 5w-30 in my hemi, manual calls for 5w-20.

 

Sometimes it pays to look into it instead of blindly thinking your interests are the same as GM's/Ram's interests.

 

Game Set and Match!

 

From this months AMSOIL rag: Page 10

 

Using lubricants with too high a viscosity for the application may lead to the following issues

 

  • Increased fluid friction
  • Increased operating temperatures
  • Poor cold-temperature fluidity
  • Reduced energy efficiency

I don't see a single ISSUE listed as a problem. But hey, that is what the engineering experts are saying. Fact is I've run both 0W20 and 10W30 in my truck and I do monitor the oil/water and trans temperatures. It made 3 degrees F difference in bulk oil temps. So yea....increased operating temperatures. So what. 3F?? 

 

Just above this they wrote: 

 

Using lubricants with inadequate viscosity for the application may lead the the followi9ng issues

 

  • Increased metal to metal contact
  • Increased friction and wear
  • Increased oil consumption
  • Leaking seals

Now there are some issues... 😉  That one will heat your oil up. And tear a motor to pieces over time.  I run 10W40 in Harley TC88's and Sportsters and have for years and tens of thousands of miles. Red Line HP in matter of fact. While most guys I rode with ran oil temps in the bag over 270 F.  I run near 100 degrees cooler and 20 of that from reduced fluid friction while maintaining a HTHS higher than the 20W50 the 'engineers call for. The remainder is twin coolers. 

 

I underlined for the application to draw attention to that which is not obvious. 

 

When people read this they think that means for my 2015 Silverado 6.2; but what it really means is a literal implementation of the word application. Towing is a great example of an application that for most isn't 'every day' operation. 

 

Most guys that tow know that when done prolonged or heavy or both that a transmission cooler is a really REALLY good idea otherwise the fluid overheats, thins out and burns up. But few give the motor that same thought. That engineer may have intended the oil he specs to have a viscosity of 9 cSt based on a carefully calculated expected temperature. You run it hard and 40 degrees over his calculation and things don't go so well. Not for the oil, not for the motor, not for your wallet. 

 

An oil call out from a manufacture is base on expected temperature as viscosity is affected by same. If you run a different temperature due to 'application' then you need a different oil. One that will be the call out viscosity at the temperature you are 'ACTUALLY" running. 

 

You will never hurt anything running heavier other that your MPG and sometimes.....not even that. 

 

 

Posted (edited)

GM Trucks.com forum:  THERE ARE NO LIFTER PROBLEMS WITH THESE TRUCKS. 

 

Actual GM truck owners:  But there have been thousands (millions?) of documented lifter failures going back to 2007!

 

GM Trucks.com forum:  RIGHT. LIKE WE SAID, THERE ARE NO LIFTER PROBLEMS WITH THESE TRUCKS. 

 

:shakehead:

Edited by MaverickZ71
Posted
1 hour ago, MaverickZ71 said:

GM Trucks.com forum:  THERE ARE NO LIFTER PROBLEMS WITH THESE TRUCKS. 

 

Actual GM truck owners:  But there have been thousands (millions?) of documented lifter failures going back to 2007!

 

GM Trucks.com forum:  RIGHT. LIKE WE SAID, THERE ARE NO LIFTER PROBLEMS WITH THESE TRUCKS. 

 

:shakehead:

 

I don't know what brought that on but I don't think anyone is saying "THERE ARE NO LIFTER PROBLEMS WITH THESE TRUCKS". :dunno:

 

What has been said is  many of these failures are not bad materials or workmanship but oil maintenance related. The rest are of course as you say. :rolleyes:

 

Yes, even back to 2007. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
    • when it's greyed out that is it's way of telling you that it's downloading the patch in the background. Eventually it will be fully downloaded and then it will prompt you at ignition shut down to run the update. I highly recommend doing the update once you get home and can run it a few times. I've had several issues with updates not going the first time around and I had to retry the update multiple times in my driveway before it was successful.   Some updates are huge and take awhile to download. You can help it by connecting to your home WiFi and keep the truck on service mode for the ignition and keep it alive for awhile on a battery charger too. There are specs it needs to be in for updating such as a full enough battery charge, no running ignition, etc.
    • I am not techy at all but wondered if you have the truck running but sitting still in park as some functions gray out as soon as the truck is moving. I believe in the settings for updates you can choose for it NOT to update and I wonder by chance if maybe that was chosen before and now it won't allow you to chose to press update, I think that is back in the settings menu where it has all the items one wants on or off etc. Also I assume you have a wifi connection and checked that it has some signal strength, not that it would have anything to do with the grayed out updates choice in that case. What I am thinking out loud of here may be be of no value but thought I would suggest it, sometimes it can be the simplest thing that resolves an issue.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...