Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've got this code up, I have replaced BOTH the dash switch AND the relay under the spare tire to no avail. I have cleaned out the port on the bumper too. Gonna have my buddy scan it and pull the code for me. I'm out of ideas?

Posted

Did you check the fuses under the hood as well? When I blow my trailer brakes fuse, that is the message I get.

Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, NWI Denali said:

2017 6.2

All fuses are good and brake fluid is halfway between MIN and MAX

 

 

Three common parts.  Switch in the dash, the trailer 7 way in the bumper and the trailer brake control module.

 

Not sure what "relay" you replaced under the truck, as these don't use the relay like 07-13.  I'm assuming you meant the module?

 

You will probably find a C1111, C1112 or C1114 if its just a trailer brake code.  There might be another one causing it however.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted

Yes sorry, brain fart. I replaced the module. This is what I replaced. 

 

Do you know what those code #s correspond to? Do they each correspond to one item, the switch, the module, and the bumper port? 

 

Thanks for the quick responses. You seem very knowledgeable on the subject.

31Y9aOFDjPS._AC_SY1000_.jpg

Posted

I hate just blindly throwing parts at it but I was pretty confident from everything I read online that it was either the dash switch or the module. Oh well, ya win some and ya lose some I suppose. Lol

Posted
27 minutes ago, NWI Denali said:

Do you know what those code #s correspond to? Do they each correspond to one item, the switch, the module, and the bumper port? 

 

Thanks for the quick responses. You seem very knowledgeable on the subject.

 

 

 

Eh, somewhat.  C1114 typically is found with a bad control switch in the dash, but can also lead to the 7 way.  The module codes are more specific to the module.  It does ideally require some circuit testing based on the code(s) you find.

 

DTC C111B 03

Trailer Brake Power Control Module System Voltage — Voltage Below Threshold

 

DTC C111B 07

Trailer Brake Power Control Module System Voltage — Voltage Above Threshold

 

DTC C111B 5A

Trailer Brake Power Control Module System Voltage — Plausibility Failure

 

DTC C1112 00

Trailer Brake Signal to Trailer Brake Power Control Module Circuit — Malfunction

 

DTC C1113 01

Trailer Brake Power Control Module Enable Circuit — Short to Battery

 

DTC C1113 02

Trailer Brake Power Control Module Enable Circuit — Short to Ground

 

DTC C1114 00

Trailer Brake Control Solenoids Control Circuit — Malfunction

  • Like 1
Posted

I just replaced the bumper plug now too. So all 3 parts are new. Still no luck. Code still there.  🙄 Really at my wit's end now. Could it be a dirty connection further upstream from the bumper?

 

Here was my bumper connection. Pretty clean I thought and dielectric grease in it.

 

 

 

 

20210825_130409.jpg

Posted

Is it giving you this message when hooked up to a trailer or anytime the truck is on? 

 

I had similar issues with our gooseneck cattle trailer and threw all three of those parts at the problem as well.

 

I did a couple more things to help resolve my issues.

 

When I got the service trailer brakes message, my trailer was blowing fuses under the hood. I had to dig into the trailer brake wiring and repair a couple wires and replace those fuses in the truck to make it go away.

 

Keep us posted...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I finally pulled the code. Looks like a pretty generic code, loss of signal. U0137. Could this be a bad ground? Any insights? Anyone ever have this code?

 

 

20210907_205436.jpg

  • 1 month later...
Posted

following, my 2015 lt 5.3 randomly throws the service trailer brakes up on the dash a couple times then goes away for a while(couple weeks) then does it again and stops again.

Posted

You have to pull the internal trouble codes to begin to solve this without throwing money away.  Get a subscription to the shop manual at AllDataDIY so you can use the trouble shooting guide.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...