Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi, I’m new to this site and hoping to get some help. 
I have a 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 and when i turn either direction to leave from being parked sometimes one of my wheels lock up and it will skid on pavement but it will continue to rotate til it gets back to the same spot and will skid again until I straighten the wheels.    

Posted

 I have checked and I am NOT stuck in 4x4, I recently replaced both cv axles, but while doing that I noticed the driver side time is really worn on the inside as I’d I have negative camber adjustment.   But in January I replaces my rack&pinion and then took it to big o tires for alignment.  When I drove off their facility I went across the street and thats the first time I felt this happen so I went back to big o tires and told me to leave my truck and they would recheck it the next day.  So the next day I picked it up and the problem was still happening.  They said thats the alignment was as good as they could get it.  I have paperwork that shows all the adjustments made and what they were before they touched it as well.  

Posted

If you already replaced both CV axles, we can rule that out. This sounds internal to the front diff. You could pull the fill plug out or just drain it and see how much metal is inside there.

Posted

I was hoping it wouldn’t be the diff but I agree with you that would probably be a good idea.  If it’s the differential wouldn’t that cause both wheels to lock at same time?

Posted

Most front axles on 4 X 4s are conventional, meaning they are don't have some form of positraction.You need to know for sure what you have before you can trouble shoot. Now I have no idea if GM offers a posi front end on these axles, they are essentially units for front wheel drive cars (at the 1/2 ton level anyway) because it was cheaper for the auto companies to have one type of front end axle VS. 2Also you could use the McPherson strut, rack and pinion front steering and suspension also (prolly) cheaper than the old way. Also the transfer case became what it is now, we don't have to turn knobs on the wheels to engage the axles to the center section any more.

I agree with CAM above.

Posted

His front differential is open, not a posi or a locker.

 

I would go somewhere else and have the alignment and rack and pinion checked, preferably a dealership that is familiar with these trucks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 6,945 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...