Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey folks! I'm new to the forum, and seeking some input from the folks who own these. 

My wife and I are looking to purchase a Suburban 2500, specifically a 2000 - 2006 model with 4wd. For the next 2 years, the truck will primarily be an "around town" truck, but will also be used to drive my grandparents and great grandfather to Connecticut to visit my mother. 

The reason we're looking into a 2500 is because we plan to purchase a camper in 2-3 years and take several cross country trips with it, and this will be our tow mule. The truck will also get used to tow other vehicles, firewood, and other remodeling projects around our property.

Short research has shown me the 6.0 is good for 10k towing, and the 8.1 is good for 12k. While I don't feel it's needed to purchase an 8.1, I want to get some feelers on any issues either engine has, and maybe some pointers on fuel economy expectations. 

The truck will be stock. No lift or leveling kits. Most aggressive tire I plan to run may be a Discover A/T, but more likely the H/T will fill my needs.

Towing wise, my F250 weighs 6700 pounds (it has a service body). It'll probably be the main culprit of being towed unless I buy another project. We're planning on a 24'-27' toy-hauler style camper that weighs 6k - 8k empty.

 

Any advice on the 6.0 or 8.1 (and their transmissions), pro or con, is appreciated!

Posted

Personally the occasional tow is perfectly fine for the 2500.  Low mileage will be your key factor.  I had a 05 gmc 2500 with the 6.0 and I pulled a 14 foot job trailer daily and the occasional 28 ' camper.  It pulled fine, as for gas mileage, it didnt seem to get any worse gas mileage full, or empty.  I dont know what sort of hills you have where you plan on towing, but that may well factor into your plans too.   I don't know anything about the 8.1.

Posted

You are going to get destroyed by MPG but they are great trucks. Single digits when towing most likely

Posted

Thanks! I realized this morning there is a 2500 forum, sorry for dropping this in the wrong place. All of the adds make the mobile website hard to navigate. 
 

We're fully expecting single digits while towing. Outside of towing, I was really hoping for 15-ish on the highway, but the nature of a 8.1 big-block makes that seem unlikely. I'm mainly curious how bad it'll be. 

Posted

Unless you are a serious person about limiting your weights when towing I feel you're better off with excess capability then having just enough to pull the weight you have Having said that, having more than you need is wasteful too, I mean you're gonna be drivin' around for a couple of years with a 8.1 carrying people, certainly over kill (for the present) unless you haul a lot more than planned around your property. I feel it's better to have more than you need than not enough and remember, things and plans change; you might get into some thing else hobby wise or other things can change.

Posted

Realize what you are asking a 16-22 year old truck to do for the next 5-6 years.  Can it still haul at maximum loads this old?  Do you plan to go through all the components and make them new again, new bushings, seals, etc.?  

 

I'd be more inclined to run a 2008-2013 2500 wagon.  Better mileage, newer, can haul just as much with 6-speed transmission even though they are rated for under 10K pounds.  They are towing beasts.

Posted

Yeah but it is a disgusting 08-14 2500. The worst GM interior literally ever. Luckily the 2500s have a decent front end but it doesn't take away from that disgusting inside.

Posted

I had a 2001 8.1 Suburban.  Yes it can pull just about anything you need to pull.  However, mpg was 10 mpg at best.  That is towing or not towing.  

Posted
On 10/24/2021 at 10:13 PM, shakenfake said:

Yeah but it is a disgusting 08-14 2500. The worst GM interior literally ever. Luckily the 2500s have a decent front end but it doesn't take away from that disgusting inside.

Boy, tell us what you really think about the interiors!  LOL

 

I like it!  hahaha

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,412 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...