Jump to content

Information New Sound System Non-Bose

marcki8506
 Share

Recommended Posts

marcki8506 New Member

marcki8506

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi !

  

I bought a GMC Sierra Elevation 2021 w/o Bose Sound System. 

My Radio is IOR 8inch.

 

What is the best way for add a Ampli ?

 

I have 3 Solutions.

 

- T-Harness of LLJ Custom with LC-4.800

 

- Axxess Integrate AXDSPL-GM31 or AXDSPX-GM31 setup with CellPhone and Add Ampli LC-4.800

 

- Sound System Kicker Full Plug and Play of GMC # Parts 19417165 (2 Ampli with Wiring and Subbwoofer)

  

In the 3 situations, I will change my speaker afterwards.

 

Thank You !!

Edited by marcki8506
Albert Palos Enthusiast

Albert Palos

Posted
Posted

Hey there, if it planning on keeping the oem head unit you're going to have to install an LOC,  it's a processor that allows you to use your infotainment system if you plan on upgrading with speakers and or amplified. I happen to be in the process of upgrading. I've already installed new speakers, subwoofer. Just waiting for my harness that's been made so that I can set up and install my processor and amplifier

  • 4 weeks later...
vwgtiturbo Enthusiast

vwgtiturbo

Posted
Posted
On 12/22/2021 at 2:08 AM, Albert Palos said:

LLJ Customs car audio fabrication is doing my harness. I have an IOS with no factory amplifier

Hi Albert,

 

Since you are in the middle of this process, maybe I could poke your brain a bit... Looking at my screen (8 inch), I am confused by my IOR RPO code. According to some oddity I saw online, the IOR has a 7 inch screen and doesn't have Sirius radio, but mine is 8 inch and does have Sirius.

 

Beyond that, I am thrown for a loop about the factory amplifier. How on earth do I tell if I have one? Crutchfield seems to think that the Tuner and Amplifier are one unit, and it is separate from the display. So the display is in the dash, but the Tuner/Amp combo is under the dash on the right side. The confusion comes from the fact that some online state that the IOR doesn't have an amplifier (but if the screen in the dash is only that... JUST a screen, wouldn't there HAVE to be an amplifier circuit somewhere??).

 

All of this comes up as I see more and more contradictory info, with no solid answer, and in choosing which equipment to get, I have to obviously know what exactly I have, versus what exactly I need.

 

Thanks in advance for any insight you could lend me!

 

Take care,

 

Ron

Tom Purser Enthusiast

Tom Purser

Posted
Posted

What I have been told by the dealership parts/service people is that the only way to know which unit you have (IOR or iOS) is to give them the vin and they will tell you.  Due to parts shortage and suppliers issues there has been a mix match of parts installed during build depending on availability at the time your truck came down the assembly line.  I purchased the kicker sub package with extra 4 channel amp and had the dealership install it. However while doing so they found that the supplied wire harness only fits the IOR system and I had the iOS..  also found out that GM doesn’t offer a wire harness for the iOS system so I have a $1200 purchase that I can’t use.  If you have the IOR system it will plug and play for you if interested I’ll sell it to you for $700

  • 3 weeks later...
MrJoSmo New Member

MrJoSmo

Posted
Posted
On 12/29/2021 at 7:19 PM, vwgtiturbo said:

Hi Albert,

 

Since you are in the middle of this process, maybe I could poke your brain a bit... Looking at my screen (8 inch), I am confused by my IOR RPO code. According to some oddity I saw online, the IOR has a 7 inch screen and doesn't have Sirius radio, but mine is 8 inch and does have Sirius.

 

Beyond that, I am thrown for a loop about the factory amplifier. How on earth do I tell if I have one? Crutchfield seems to think that the Tuner and Amplifier are one unit, and it is separate from the display. So the display is in the dash, but the Tuner/Amp combo is under the dash on the right side. The confusion comes from the fact that some online state that the IOR doesn't have an amplifier (but if the screen in the dash is only that... JUST a screen, wouldn't there HAVE to be an amplifier circuit somewhere??).

 

All of this comes up as I see more and more contradictory info, with no solid answer, and in choosing which equipment to get, I have to obviously know what exactly I have, versus what exactly I need.

 

Thanks in advance for any insight you could lend me!

 

Take care,

 

Ron

In the middle of an install of a sub amp and sub box under back seat and speakers in doors and tweeters replaced with focal speakers. All this in my 2019 AT4. From what I understand, if your door speakers have the Bose badge then you amp/tuner is behind the back seat. There is a T harness available but I tapped into the yellow/yellow black wire for sub and went into a LC2 converter (you can google the LC2). If your doors do not have a Bose badge the your amp/tuner is under the glove box. There is nothing in the dash but the display and there is zero room behind the display. I can only assume all this is still true for your year model.

Tom Purser Enthusiast

Tom Purser

Posted
Posted

Yes it’s the same for 2021.  The screen is just a display. The unit itself is behind the glovebox and does NOT have an amp.  It has its power internally just like any base stereo does.  The Bose has an external amp and it’s behind the back seat.  The kicker sub alone is a perfect match for the bose system and sounds great!!! For those WITHOUT the Bose you can buy and install the kicker sub and it makes a great addition to the non Bose system as well.  If you want more power then I can tell you from experience that it’s priced too high through GM.  If you DO get the $1200 system from GM, MAKE SURE YOU ORDER THE ONE THAT GOES TO YOUR PARTICULAR SYSTEM!!! Some are IOS, some IOR.  Give your ViN to the parts department and they can tell you which system you have.    
 

  • 3 months later...
Djcrusherr New Member

Djcrusherr

Posted
Posted
On 11/22/2021 at 5:17 AM, Albert Palos said:

Hey there, if it planning on keeping the oem head unit you're going to have to install an LOC,  it's a processor that allows you to use your infotainment system if you plan on upgrading with speakers and or amplified. I happen to be in the process of upgrading. I've already installed new speakers, subwoofer. Just waiting for my harness that's been made so that I can set up and install my processor and amplifier

Help me understand new here to owning a stuck with this crappy infotainment restrictive POS system Chevy has locked us into. An LOC? So if I am just tapping into a rear speaker connection for a signal and running a line level converter to a mono amp with a bass knob why do I need to complicate my life with a processor also I’m upgrading all speakers to pioneer Pros.

Tom Purser Enthusiast

Tom Purser

Posted
Posted

You don’t have to have a dsp or loc if your just adding speakers and sub.  Gm sells a kicker system ( 4 channel amp + mono amp and 10” sub that plugs right in IF you have the IOR radio.  If you have the IOS radio then you can tie in to the FRONT speaker wire and run it to sub.  Use the front because it is where the bass signal is best.   If you want a full 4-7 channel system then you need an LCI or LOC to convert all 8 speaker wires to rca jacks for the amps

  • 2 years later...
yzinger Enthusiast

yzinger

Posted
Posted

hey all - bringing this back to top please. 

 

I did search but it seems different on each post I read so wondering is someone in this thread can tell me exactly what are the rear speaker colors for a 2021 GMC Sierra x31 Elevation (non Bose).

 

I've even read some where stripe wires are negative, others where stripe wires were positive 😉

 

So, I've come to the gurus. (i really dont want to remove door panels, i only tapping into these for a small powered sub)

 

Thanks for all responses.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,475 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MASONV88888888
      Another 6.2L engine failure!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • MASONV88888888
      Rattle in the rear!

      By MASONV88888888 · Posted

      Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • Buckwild27
      Gas Prices

      By Buckwild27 · Posted

      I have 2 choices. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...