Jump to content

2021 GMC SIERRA - TWO EVENTS FIRST AT 520 MILES SECOND AT 1333 MILES - ENGINE POWER REDUCED

Fortyniner
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fortyniner New Member

Fortyniner

Posted
Posted

Both events kept vehicle in dealer's hands for 7 days - Baker Motors in Charleston SC only has ONE Master Tech able to do the work and even tho I was a repeat problem I was not put ahead of anyone therefore after the part came in it was two days more to get repaired.

Dmax3 Enthusiast

Dmax3

Posted
Posted

I had a warning about the DEF system, and a countdown of 100 miles until reduced speed, but it went away, and the dealer was unable to determine what caused it.  My suspicion is that it was due to running low on fuel beforehand.  After re-filling, it took it away to start up again.  No issues since.

AppDawg Enthusiast

AppDawg

Posted
Posted (edited)

My 3.0 currently has the same problem. First exhaust check engine light, dealer ordered parts, gave it back. 2 weeks later service Def system, 95 miles to reduced speed. Sat in front of the house for two weeks, dealer got the parts after almost 30 days, then could not replicate the first problem. Now high ambient temperature CEL. What a piece of ****** and Chevy dealers are not helpful at all. 4 months of ownership and only driven less 2.5 months. When I get it back may trade in on a Toyota Tundra 

On 1/21/2022 at 9:51 AM, Dmax3 said:

I had a warning about the DEF system, and a countdown of 100 miles until reduced speed, but it went away, and the dealer was unable to determine what caused it.  My suspicion is that it was due to running low on fuel beforehand.  After re-filling, it took it away to start up again.  No issues since.

 

Edited by AppDawg
Dmax3 Enthusiast

Dmax3

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, AppDawg said:

My 3.0 currently has the same problem. First exhaust check engine light, dealer ordered parts, gave it back. 2 weeks later service Def system, 95 miles to reduced speed. Sat in front of the house for two weeks, dealer got the parts after almost 30 days, then could not replicate the first problem. Now high ambient temperature CEL. What a piece of ****** and Chevy dealers are not helpful at all. 4 months of ownership and only driven less 2.5 months. When I get it back may trade in on a Toyota Tundra 

 

This has been my only real issue, and it never actually reduced speed.  32,000 miles on mine now, couldn't imagine trading it for any other engine.

Dmax3 Enthusiast

Dmax3

Posted
Posted

Oh, and 25 mpg over that 32,000 miles, lots of that mountain driving, some of that pulling a camper.

  • Like 1
JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted

WTH happened with this post?

 

No idea what the OP had for problems, now posts are about DEF fluid for the 3.0's🤔🤣😂😬

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,207 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...