Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2021 Yukon xl and was wondering if anyone has tried swapping out the switches to a 2022 for the hard button for the camera. I know it’s a long shot, but any chance it’s doable?

asked a dealer and they had no idea.

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Man, this forum doesn't get as much help as the truck side of things.

Anyways, update on my question.  IT IS PLUG AND PLAY for my 2021 Yukon XL Denali (build date May 2021).

 
Several people were saying it was not possible and just to trade up to a 2022 model, but I didn't want to lose any features I currently have. This was by far the best $70 I have spent on this vehicle.
 
There are 25 part numbers for the switch with camera, so you will need to figure out which is correct for your vehicle based on RPO's. Parts guy at the second dealership I went to (first was not interested in helping me) was willing to print out the list for me to figure out which it was as he could not find it based on a VIN I gave (I have attached the part numbers pages so hopefully others can find their's easier). 
Mine was an ultimate:
UHX: Lane departure
JHD: Hill Descent
UD5: parking sensor
KL9: Auto start/stop
UV2: 360 camera.
Z88: GMC
 
Other RPO's listed:
NSS: no start / stop
X88: Chevy
 
You can find your RPO code on the driver's side door jamb and scan it with your phone camera to read it.
 
Once you get the part, it literally took less than 10 minutes. 
  1. Popped off the 2 panels: Do the bottom left of the kick panel first, then do the side piece. 
  2. remove 7 mm screw that holds the trim piece with the switch.
  3. pull straight out on the trim piece with the switch (4 retainer clips, see picture).
  4. remove clip but first using small flat head to slide red locking piece out (to the right in the picture) and then flip green piece down and it will release the harness.
  5. Remove switch from trim piece with small flathead to release clip at each corner.
  6. Install new switch and then put everything back!

Parts list 1.jpg

Parts list 2.jpg

Switch comparison.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Very informative posts. I have a 2021 high country suburban with the same switch setup as you. Ordered part # 84786497, I will report back with another data point after install. I also plan on installing an auto stop eliminator at the same time. 
 

FYI, for anyone with a non Denali Yukon or Tahoe/Suburban the switch panel disassembly/assembly is covered in a video on the auto stop eliminator web site. 

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Installed my switch panel today, everything works as advertised. It’s nice not having to navigate the touch screen to get the 360 cameras up. Thanks peterlawl84 for sharing the information to make the swap possible. 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Thank you for all your help on this! We have an 2wd Duramax Yukon SLT that does not have Hill Descent Control. I ended up ordering the part number 84786496, and I also paired it with the auto stop eliminator and everything works great.

 

 

Screen Shot 2022-04-07 at 2.27.36 PM.png

Posted

My 2021 Suburban controls do not have the hill descent button.

It looks like b0hr found the right part to substitute to get the camera function.

 

But, if I add the button assembly that peterlawl84 used, will I also get a working descent button?

Is that plug and play also?

Posted

b0hr, what is the auto stop eliminator and where do you get it?

I can guess what it does but what does it look like and how is it installed?
 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/11/2022 at 6:47 PM, studly said:

My 2021 Suburban controls do not have the hill descent button.

It looks like b0hr found the right part to substitute to get the camera function.

 

But, if I add the button assembly that peterlawl84 used, will I also get a working descent button?

Is that plug and play also?

You will not gain descent control. thats a separate module.  This has been confirmed by others that tried to use the same button I did on their vehicle without it. 

 

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Another successful installation. 

As noted by b0hr above I used part number 84786496 for my 2021 4WD Suburban LT.

I also installed the TRL Autostop Eliminator at the same time.

Everything works great!

SwitchInstallation.jpg

  • 1 year later...
Posted

OMG this has been driving me crazy ('21 Yukon Denali). Stumbled upon this thread and just ordered the upgraded part (84786497). Can't wait to have a hard cam button - thank you, all!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thrust bearing is a very small window.  But nice try.   Turbo oil filter?  Haven't seen any failures.  Change your oil more frequently.  Use a better oil than the factory oil.  
    • There is a p/n called out in the one PI that GM has.  Curt 57003 inline load adapter that is used for LED trailers that are having trouble with these newer trucks.  No cutting, no splicing, etc.  GM did update the lighting module around 2023 to better pick up trailers with LED lighting, but it still can happen.     Here's the link to the Curt site for it - 7-Way RV Blade LED Electrical Adapter (Not a Wiring Extension) SKU #57003 by CURT   The PI I am referencing - MC-10208985-9999.pdf   Its not just a GM deal either.  Newer Fords and Rams have this same problem.       In another PI, they recommend that the trailer has a Pollock brand 7 way on it as that is who makes the truck sides for the OEMs.  GM is also big on making sure the trailer is trouble free.  So no wiring issues, all lights are functional, better quality 7 way plug, etc.     The other PI I am referencing - MC-10178359-9999.pdf   The model year range is older but it is the current PI for 2014-2026.  It calls out the Pollock RV HD 7 way they recommend.  
    • That's part of the problem...the EGR has already been replaced, and I've already had the complete intake assembly removed, and the EGR passages were clear at that time. That leaves wiring, PCM, or another variable that I wasn't expecting. Best I can tell, it's not wiring or the PCM, so I'm grasping for straws.   The PCM uses the MAP reading to confirm the requisite loss of vacuum in the manifold when the EGR activates. Since that's vacuum related, it involves a lot of other systems which could play a role.   The overall diagnosis has to be considered too. The fuel lines in the intake had rubbed through and were dumping fuel into the intake, drowning the cylinders in fuel, and putting raw fuel into the sump and cat converter. The fuel system has been fixed but the complete path of damage may not be. If the cat was damaged and melted the internals, it could be partially obstructed and also playing into the EGR issue.   I'm retracing my steps; trying to go back to thinking thinking Horses not Zebras based on the clues I've been given. These engines aren't *that* complex.   Could it be, now that the truck is running well, that carbon and crud from being run with the fuel system in disarray is now dislodging and clogged my clean EGR passages where I can't see?  That's what the code is actually saying. The flow is restricted, dummy. Retrace step 1.   I may just need to remove the lower intake again. Before I do that I'm going to try removing the EGR and running the engine for a few seconds to see if it will blow anything lodged in the egr passages out through the open ports.     That's been helpful in the past. For the spider injector, there's no guarantee I'll get a working one. The spider I have seems fine now that the high pressure fuel line isn't making an early delivery via large hole. SO at least I'm not marooned and looking for one of those.   Row52 (dot com) is also a good one for watching for vehicles at local yards.  
    • Disassembly may be Required!   Every blender makes claims but do  you ponder those claims? What was really said? Was it true?  Motive for saying it? What does in infer?  Is that inference true?    Let's do one.    Claim: Made from shear stable base oils.    What was said: Base Oils are shear proof.   Was it true: Yes.  ALL base oils are Newtonian.    Motive / Inference: To imply the fully formulated product is Shear Proof.    Is the Inference true?: Most fully formulated multigrade oils contain Viscosity Modifiers or VM's, sometimes called VII or Viscosity Index Improvers. There are four types. One is in fact shear proof but it also has a bad effect on extreme cold flow and is restricted to use in specialty oils. A second has limited shear called a 0-5 SSI polymer. Meaning its shear is limited to a range of zero to five percent as reported by the ASTM D6278 Shear Stability Index test. A few high end oils, like Torco SR-5, use them and brag about it profusely. Actually all that use it point it out. The last two shear dramatically and are often marketed as a 'feature' of the product aiding the oil to meet fuel standard requirements of ever stricter rules. One shears more than 5% and the other up to 20%. As you make guess, cost is directly linked to shear down and as such the majority of oils use the cheapest organic polymers sold to make grade and pass stringent tests.    PPD's or Pour Point Depressants also shear a bit, only a few percent and hide inside the 0-5 SSI capabilities.    The blender knows he can not out engineer Stribeck. Physics is not a suggestion. But he can wordcraft the unsuspecting toward believing a false claims INFERENCE. This is LEGAL. It is COMMON, and it is EFFECTIVE.         
    • I don't recall ever dealing with one on an '06 and back. It may not even exist on that. I can't remember for sure.   Any kind of ice in or after the evaporator is normally due to low charge with both a clutch-cycling orifice tube system, and a TXV system.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...