Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just bought my first Chevy 2500 gas motor but wanting to level it and put 35s on it on factory wheels. Looking at the cognito leveling kit with shocks upper control arms and spacers fore the back. Seems like a good kit just wanted some input.

2878A2CD-6C05-45A8-A10C-90B0E9774BBF.jpeg

Posted

Yep it's a good kit , I combined mine with suspension max 1in rear block kit instead and suspension max diff drop . I'm also running fuel covert bronze wheels 20/10 -18 bs. Excellent ride had to do minor trimming on front mud flaps but other than that very happy. May add the suspension max steering damper soon just for the heck ove it.

IMG_20210810_152428.jpg

IMG_20210810_152441.jpg

Posted

truck looks good, im about to order cognito 3inch performance lift that comes with the shocks and im going to order the pitman idler arm support kit also. im going put put 285/75/18 nitto ridge grapplers on my factory wheels for now because i like them and havent seen anything that has stood out to me yet but if i do i will still be staying with the 18 i like more tire than wheel. do you recommend the diff drop?

Posted

I did the diff drop more for peace of mind, I figured it couldn't hurt to keep the CV angle flat as possible. I also did the pisk you ordered just forgot to put it in my post. The truck drives excellent in my opinion, in fact better than the 19 bone stock work truck we have for reference. 

Posted

Used the supplied fox 2.0 non reserve shocks on all four corners. With kit supplied front top shock mount, the only cutting you have to do on the hole kit is chop of the front service mounts located above the top a arm forward position.

3 hours ago, calcagno21 said:

Kjduvall, did you upgrade shocks or just use spacers on the OEM's?

 

Posted

Check out AccuTune.  I just ordered their Fox 2.5  Leveling Kit with Icon A Arms.  What I liked about AccuTune is that once they receive your Fox Shocks, they tune them to what you want which is included in the price. Seems like a good idea or I got scammed. Lol.  Anyone hear about AccuTune?  Oh well just a thought. Check them out as an option.  

Posted
On 3/15/2022 at 3:47 AM, Kjduvall said:

I did the diff drop more for peace of mind, I figured it couldn't hurt to keep the CV angle flat as possible. I also did the pisk you ordered just forgot to put it in my post. The truck drives excellent in my opinion, in fact better than the 19 bone stock work truck we have for reference. 

whats your fender height front a rear 

Posted

43 3/4 front 43 7/8 rear with a lot of thread left to go on the key adjustment up front, keep in mind I'm a reg cab 3500 so it may end up a little different on a 4 door 2500 . I always like to get the rear where I want it first then adjust the front accordingly.

Posted (edited)

well i want the back to sit alittle higher just because towing things im going to be running my factory wheels with 285/75/18 nitto ridge grappler which they show to be 35.2 inches tall and almost 11.5 wide.  i just dont want it to look like i bought 35s but need 37s kinda like skipping leg day at the gym. your looks good im just wanting it to look good i have the 275/70-18  now and they look small right now.  and dont the regular cabs look taller than the crew cabs?

Edited by whitesilvy256
Posted

well i want the back to sit alittle higher just because towing things im going to be running my factory wheels with 285/75/18 nitto ridge grappler which they show to be 35.2 inches tall and almost 11.5 wide.  i just dont want it to look like i bought 35s but need 37s kinda like skipping leg day at the gym. your looks good im just wanting it to look good i have the 275/70-18  now and they look small right now. 

Posted

if for some reason you dont like how it sits you can always change the rear blocks and u bolts. they make 1in 1.5in and 2in+ to get it how you want it. and there is also adjustment left to go up or down in the front as needed, once your happy with overall look then go get it alighned. go to customwheeloffset site and look at similar trucks, it may give you a good idea as to how it will sit .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...