Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

2016 Sierra Denali, 4wd w/5.3

 

About 6 weeks ago I had the front Magneride coilovers replaced with reman assemblies, including springs and sensors. 

 

When I picked it up, the tires squealed anytime I turned, like they were under-inflated and I noticed there seemed to be a lot of negative camber. 

 

Lately I've noticed I'm hitting a lot of parking blocks/curbs/sidewalks on the front air dam when I park. I've never had this in the 5 years I've owned it. 

 

I measured front tires to fender is 3" (seems low) and rear is 9" (seems high). 

 

I called the shop, and told them it seems low in front and he told me to get an alignment... He said there is no adjustability and they're just mechanical, with adaptive shocks. 

 

What should the stock ride height be? Is the front low? Is the rear high? Is there any impact to ride height with the magneride (e.g. If the sensors are faulty) 

20220718_173937.jpg

Edited by Hystiker
Add pic
Posted

Your front is lower than the factory for sure. It looks like my truck does and I installed parts to lower it.

 

Saying to get the truck aligned is just some bullcrap, they should have done a full alignment when they replaced the struts in the first place. Any shop that doesn't do that shouldn't be a shop at all. Also a smart mechanic would have put the struts side by side to make sure they are the correct length before installing them too.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Yeah, thats weird for sure. GMT800 & 900, and K2 have a pile of different suspension options that demand direct replacement and no retrofit or deletion. I bought a Suburban from auction and some doofus before me replaced the rear struts with non Premium Smooth Ride struts which caused the whole truck to handle effed up. I bought AC Delco struts for the ZW7 option on RockAuto and that made the truck a lot safer. I wonder if these MagneRide struts are like the transmission pan gaskets, just better to get right from GM and not use an aftermarket equivalent? So perhaps someone ordering the parts had no idea how dependant these trucks can be for a direct replacement. As goofy as it sounds, I'd check to make sure the struts are connected first, then I'd check to make sure these are the exact struts needed for your RPO codes/VIN. 

Edited by stu_pidasso
Posted
2 hours ago, stu_pidasso said:

Yeah, thats weird for sure. GMT800 & 900, and K2 have a pile of different suspension options that demand direct replacement and no retrofit or deletion. I bought a Suburban from auction and some doofus before me replaced the rear struts with non Premium Smooth Ride struts which caused the whole truck to handle effed up. I bought AC Delco struts for the ZW7 option on RockAuto and that made the truck a lot safer. I wonder if these MagneRide struts are like the transmission pan gaskets, just better to get right from GM and not use an aftermarket equivalent? So perhaps someone ordering the parts had no idea how dependant these trucks can be for a direct replacement. As goofy as it sounds, I'd check to make sure the struts are connected first, then I'd check to make sure these are the exact struts needed for your RPO codes/VIN. 

According to this shop, these were original GM units that were rebuilt, not aftermarket.  It's almost sitting like it's 2WD now.

 

I've been looking online to see if I can find any reference to stock ride height, fender clearance, bumper height but nothing concrete.  I figure if I can show specifically what the stock height is supposed to be, that should be irrefutable evidence that something is off.  

Posted
14 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Your front is lower than the factory for sure. It looks like my truck does and I installed parts to lower it.

 

Saying to get the truck aligned is just some bullcrap, they should have done a full alignment when they replaced the struts in the first place. Any shop that doesn't do that shouldn't be a shop at all. Also a smart mechanic would have put the struts side by side to make sure they are the correct length before installing them too.

Maybe I should just lower the rear and call it good :) Although I'd still need to fix the front camber or I'll wear out the inside shoulder of those tires.

Posted
1 hour ago, Hystiker said:

According to this shop, these were original GM units that were rebuilt, not aftermarket.  It's almost sitting like it's 2WD now.

 

I've been looking online to see if I can find any reference to stock ride height, fender clearance, bumper height but nothing concrete.  I figure if I can show specifically what the stock height is supposed to be, that should be irrefutable evidence that something is off.  

I do not think they rebuild the Magnaride shocks. Shop is not telling you the truth?

 

Front end is way to low, did they make sure all of the sensors were hooked up correctly? It looks like they are already compressed, how does it ride?

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, Hystiker said:

2016 Sierra Denali, 4wd w/5.3

 

About 6 weeks ago I had the front Magneride coilovers replaced with reman assemblies, including springs and sensors. 

 

When I picked it up, the tires squealed anytime I turned, like they were under-inflated and I noticed there seemed to be a lot of negative camber. 

 

Lately I've noticed I'm hitting a lot of parking blocks/curbs/sidewalks on the front air dam when I park. I've never had this in the 5 years I've owned it. 

 

I measured front tires to fender is 3" (seems low) and rear is 9" (seems high). 

 

I called the shop, and told them it seems low in front and he told me to get an alignment... He said there is no adjustability and they're just mechanical, with adaptive shocks. 

 

What should the stock ride height be? Is the front low? Is the rear high? Is there any impact to ride height with the magneride (e.g. If the sensors are faulty) 

20220718_173937.jpg

 

 

I think you've got an issue with your "new" shocks.  They either got the wrong parts or they are no good.  

 

What brand are the new shocks?  Just from some quick googling, I can't find anyone that's doing remans.  

 

Sometimes its worth going OE so its done right...

  • Like 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

I think you've got an issue with your "new" shocks.  They either got the wrong parts or they are no good.  

 

What brand are the new shocks?  Just from some quick googling, I can't find anyone that's doing remans.  

 

Sometimes its worth going OE so its done right...

I offered to buy the Delco direct units, he said he's got a local shop that rebuilds them. He said he buys them as a complete coil over assembly and that it'd cost less for him to swap the coilover, versus transferring over the springs and swapping separate sensors. 

 

All-in-all it wasn't cheap. It cost me $2,200 but that was still something like $800 less than the dealer. 

Posted
1 hour ago, JimCost2014 said:

I do not think they rebuild the Magnaride shocks. Shop is not telling you the truth?

 

Front end is way to low, did they make sure all of the sensors were hooked up correctly? It looks like they are already compressed, how does it ride?

It seems smoother (but one of the old shocks was siezing up, so it was quite choppy before). 

 

I definitely notice the camber though, the steering wheel snaps back to center and the tires squeel like I'm in a parking garage. 

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Hystiker said:

I offered to buy the Delco direct units, he said he's got a local shop that rebuilds them. He said he buys them as a complete coil over assembly and that it'd cost less for him to swap the coilover, versus transferring over the springs and swapping separate sensors. 

 

Well, there is your problem. 

 

I don't mean to sound like a dick here but you should've trusted your instinct on it buying the Delco struts. Sounds like he just didn't want to do work, period, especially considering he didn't align the truck after. There is also no core charge on AC Delco MagneRide components so there is clue one that this sounds like a bad idea. 

 

On 7/19/2022 at 1:31 PM, JimCost2014 said:

I do not think they rebuild the Magnaride shocks.

 

 

I didn't think so either. Arnott is the only suspension component manufacturer that I know of who will take a core charge on parts and rebuild. The only trucks I know that have Arnott brand shocks are Z55 AutoRide equipped Burbs, Yukons, etc... Arnott will also take back German car struts on Benzes with an air suspension. 

 

 

Edited by stu_pidasso
  • Like 1
Posted
On 7/19/2022 at 10:18 AM, stu_pidasso said:

It almost looks like the stock regular suspension set up, nose down so the truck is level when towing. 

The stock does have a F/R differential but from what I'm reading online it should be about 4" and I'm seeing 6"+

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Hystiker said:

It seems smoother (but one of the old shocks was siezing up, so it was quite choppy before). 

 

I definitely notice the camber though, the steering wheel snaps back to center and the tires squeel like I'm in a parking garage. 

I would take it elsewhere, have it checked out before you destroy your frontend and tires.

 

Those shocks are bad, are installed incorrectly, or maybe a cheap knock off that has already failed. I bet your truck did not sit like that when you first bought it.

 

We paid $1600.00 at dealer for the rear two on our Tahoe, and it looks just like it did from the factory.

Edited by JimCost2014
Posted
1 hour ago, stu_pidasso said:

 

Well, there is your problem. 

 

I don't mean to sound like a dick here but you should've trusted your instinct on it buying the Delco struts. Sounds like he just didn't want to do work, period, especially considering he didn't align the truck after. There is also no core charge on AC Delco MagneRide components so there is clue one that this sounds like a bad idea. 

 

 

 

I didn't think so either. Arnott is the only suspension component manufacturer that I know of who will take a core charge on parts and rebuild. The only trucks I know that have Arnott brand shocks are Z55 AutoRide equipped Burbs, Yukons, etc... Arnott will also take back German car struts on Benzes with an air suspension. 

 

 

I called the shop and he said he used Arnott and claims they make units inclusive to Silverados and Sierras (as well as the SUVs).  He's going to call Arnott and get some guidance on what could be causing the low ride height.  

 

He previously told me he recently changed out the Magnerides on his own Denali, but when I pressed him about it today, he said he owns a Yukon and not a Sierra.  

Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, Hystiker said:

I called the shop and he said he used Arnott and claims they make units inclusive to Silverados and Sierras (as well as the SUVs).  He's going to call Arnott and get some guidance on what could be causing the low ride height.  

 

Hmm... MagneRide isn't air and Arnott makes air suspensions. Could it be this guy put air struts in a vehicle that take electronic struts? That would certainly explain the low nose. I always thought GM only had air suspensions in the SUVs, Ill check up on that as I could be way off. 

 

Did a little googleating here, Arnott now makes aftermarket MagneRide struts but for Z95 suspension option cars. There is one front strut for GMT900 SUVs, not trucks. Magnetic Ride Shocks | Arnott (arnottindustries.com)  And they also make them for K2 SUVs but not trucks... Front Coil-Over Shock - Cadillac, Chevrolet, GMC SUVs (K2xx) w/Magneride (arnottindustries.com)

 

The plot is thickening here...

 

 

Edited by stu_pidasso

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well one of our most reliable vehicles was sold yesterday. The first and only I gave for free to a grandkid. If they got skin in the game they take care of it. My wife bought new. Five years later my daughter got it to use. We got it back and gave it to our grandson after graduation. He did zero maintenance just oil changes. When the AC quit he drove his mother’s car rather than get it fixed. Instead he just bought a beater and sold the Elantra. 
    • I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...