Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey everyone! I love the little bit of added rumble the muffler delete gave me on my 5.3 - 2016 Chevy Silverado 1500. I left the resonator on, as I cannot deal with drone. I am wondering if deleting the third cat will do anything to add a little more sound? Again I think I definitely want to leave the resonator on as I am very fearful of having drone.  Any advice is greatly appreciated!

EA067DE2-DE0F-4AD5-A88D-6169B9158F18.jpeg

Posted

You're not going to notice much of a difference in my opinion. The 3rd cat is just a mini resonator and not worth the hassle of removing.

Posted
7 hours ago, CamGTP said:

You're not going to notice much of a difference in my opinion. The 3rd cat is just a mini resonator and not worth the hassle of removing.

In my experience when I put loud mufflers on a vehicle adding  small glass packs down stream would deepen the tone. And quiet it down a bit. I left it on.

Posted (edited)

Cool thank you both, guess I’ll leave it on.  What about deleting the resonator at the rear? Obviously it’s going to be louder but do you think there’ll be terrible drone? I run a Range AFM disabler so it’s V8 all the time,  so don’t have to worry about the v4 drone but wondering if if get any v8 drone?  Thanks again!

Edited by SMID333
Posted

I have a dynomax system on my truck, so it's just the dynomax muffler with no resonator and I don't have any drone.

 

Never did it with just a muffler delete but it's likely to be the same.

Posted
10 hours ago, pokismoki said:

if you activate enrichent function in the ECU , I would delete the 3rd cat. 

First time I've ever heard anyone say that. I've been tuning my trucks for years, even running E85 and never removed the 3rd cat. Never lost performance or melted down a cat with any modification to the power enrichment settings or commanded air fuel ratio.

Posted (edited)

I've had them melt down before on stock tune, i always figure that GM designed the cats to operate under their lean tune to last the 100K warrantee on this emmissions part.  i would remove it so, at a later date one can reinstall it and it will perform to spec, by not getting cooked with excessive fuel.. its just a thought I had, i doubt anyone will do it , unless they want a higher flowing exhaust

 

better yet take down the factory exhaust dont cut it up,  and buy the offroad system and add your own mufflers

Edited by pokismoki
Posted (edited)

What part of the tune in lean though?

 

You have tuning software just like I do, it's not hard to see that they run them rich like they always have since I don't know, forever? Sure stoich was changed to 14.1 for the E10 fuels but these DI trucks run 11's AFR right from the get go, that's not lean at all.

 

Lean would be 13's or higher at full throttle. And there is no lean burn mode on these trucks that are from North America. In fact in many calibration files the Cat Over Temp Protection is actually richer than the commanded AFR at full throttle, the idea is that the rich air fuel ratio will lower EGT's to try and save the cats. At a certain point too much fuel would be a bad thing and start doing the opposite.

 

If you ask me, changing the enrichment settings to a more respectable setting of around 12.5ish AFR would make the cats lasts the longest. It's not rich and it's not lean, so best of everything. Enough fuel to keep the cats working correctly and enough fuel to keep EGT's down. Plus ignition timing is a big factor as well, too low of timing would just be sending fire balls straight into the exhaust and melting them down.

Edited by CamGTP
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • That computer lies!
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...