Cold Start Problems - 99 Z71

77ddt · January 21, 2004

I've got a 99 Silverado that has been giving me some cold start trouble lately. I noticed last week that the truck was starting a little slower than normal, similar to last year when I had to replace the battery. This weekend, after sitting out in the cold (0-20F) for about a day and a half without moving, it wouldn't even crank. I tried jump starting and it still wouldn't crank, just a click from the starter solenoid. I took the battery in to get it checked and they said it tested bad so they replaced it under warranty. I installed the new battery and still nothing no reaction from the starter other than a click. Finally, after sliding a space heater under it and letting it run for about an hour and then jump starting it, it ever so slowly cranked over. It started fine a few times after that, but last night after work and again this morning it was really struggling to crank and it hasn't even been as cold as it was last weekend. I've had the alternator and the battery replaced within the last year, so I am doubtful that is the cause. That leads me to think it is the starter, but if anybody has any other ideas, I'm all ears. The kicker of it is, my extended warranty just ran out the first of the year.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

77DDT

99 Silverado Z71 - Reg Cab Short Bed

JayMan · January 21, 2004

Other users have reported problems with the Side Post battery cable bolts. Carefully inspect the side post cables: if there is even a HINT of corrosion, replace them. It doesn't take much corrosion in the bolts or the battery side posts to stop most of your electrical current, and in cold temps you need it most.

I would also check the Jump Start point - the red plastic box by the power steering pump - to see if that has corrosion. Also check the vehicle ground for the battery for a poor connection.

Next, check the electrical connections at the starter itself. Then do a Load Test, maybe a local shop will let you borrow a Load Tester to see how things work in your actual cold start conditions. I think NAPA and AutoZone let you borrow these tools with a security deposit.

I know this is a lot of work, but if you try to jump and it STILL won't crank, you have a poor connection somewhere. It takes a slow process of elimination to check these connections. Finally, yeah it could be the starter itself.

When you applied heat under the motor, everything warmed up so the motor was a LOT easier to start. Not as much current needed to spin the motor and fire it up.

FWIW: when my truck was new, I disconnected the battery. Starting at the starter, I took the connections apart, applied Silicon Dielectric grease (You can get it at NAPA) and put the connectors back together.

I then did my Jump Start Point connectors. Then the body ground for the battery cable. Then I smeared the grease into the battery side posts, then reassembled the battery cables in proper order. That was in fall of 2000 and my battery still appears to be good, even at -40 F.

I did all this as my folks bought a new 1976 Chevy Monte Carlo and we had problems about 2 years later with those infamous "side post" cables. My Uncle, a mechanic by trade, had to throw away the cables and battery. He applied Silicon Dielectric grease to everything and the Monte Carlo was starting fine until 1985 when the folks traded for a Chrysler 5th Avenue.

Boy, was THAT a mistake! But that's a topic for another time.

SilveradoWV · January 21, 2004

That part about putting the heater under it for a while then it starts is pretty weird for sure.

77ddt · January 22, 2004

Thanks for the tips guys. Unfortunately, it wouldn't start after work for me to drive it home to check those things. I got a ride to the dealership and arranged for them to come and get it. I got an Avalanche for a 24 hour test drive in the meantime, and they said I could keep it longer than that if it takes a couple of days to get my truck fixed. The Ave is nice, but thought of my baby on the back of a tow truck pretty much kills the excitement. I'll let you guys know what the dealer finds out tomorrow.

77ddt · January 24, 2004

Got the truck back, but I am still smarting from the bill. $285 for a new starter motor, $120 for labor and $60 for a tow. I'm sure I could have fixed it for much cheaper myself, but unfortunately I don't have a shop to work on it in and it's too cold to do it in the driveway. As if that wasn't bad enough, as they pulled my truck around for me to leave, the "Check Engine Oil Level" light came on. Apparently they forgot to plug the oil level sensor back in. The technician plugged it back in, and messed around with it for another 15-20 minutes trying to get the light to turn off. Finally, he gave up and told me to try driving it for the weekend to see it goes off on it's own. That solution certainly didn't inspire much confidence in my technician's abilities, but it did end up working. After about half a dozen starts, the light quit coming on.

77DDT

JayMan · January 24, 2004

Yeesh, that's steep.

I have to question how most technicians do their job these days. It has been my personal experience that rather than do the "simple things" which also fix the problem, they do "unit replacement." You know, upsell parts.

Example:

"Took apart, inspected, cleaned, and reassembled vehicle ground, starter wiring harness, jump start point connections. Found light corrosion, used silicon dielectric grease to reassemble cold start amp draw normal. Total Labor: 1 hour, total shop supplies $10." That sort of "low level" work doesn't generate much profit.

Say it was a bad connection at the starter solenoid, by replacing the starter they automatically cured the bad connection. Of course, it could always come back. This is a temporary cure at best.

It has also been my personal experience that if you live in a part of the country with excessive humidity, and especially where they salt the bejeezus out of the roads, you will have early wiring problems. Where I live you seem to get mysterious wiring gremlins within a year or two. Then try to fight apart the connections when the oxidation has advanced, a lot of broken connectors.

Doesn't matter what you drive. That's why when it's brand new and everything is still easy to take apart, I go over all the connections and smear a little silicon dielectric grease on. The SD grease protects the connections from normal oxidation and from any salt spray you may experience.

I have a 1984 Ford F-150 that I bought new. WIth yearly rust-proofing and the initial connection maintenance, the only electrical problems I had was with the dash, but that was "from the factory." That Ford wasn't a quality piece to begin with.