Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello Folks, been awhile, boating season is over here, except for another sbc engine build. Gives me a bit of time to focus on the Silverado.

A few questions for you good people: 

I am installing a set of loaded front struts, and new upper control arms:

 

Why would I need to disconnect the battery for this install? Why would I need to disconnect all 3 connectors for the electric steering rack?

Now what exactly happens later when you disconnect the battery on these new vehicles? Will I lose my radio settings or need a code to turn it back on. 

Ive done many suspension upgrades on other vehicles, just not a newer 2019 Silverado LT.

Thank you in advance!

Posted

I would just pull the appropriate fuses.  That way you don't lose any memory stuff or settings.  If you wind up needing to disconnect the battery, I suggest you use a Keep Alive Memory (KAM) device that plugs into the OBDII port.  I have one of these:

 

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/memory-settings-saver/p/schumacher-obdll-memory-saver-cable/429081_0_0

 

Good Luck!

Posted (edited)

You don't lose anything when disconnecting the battery.

In some cases disconnecting the connectors is just to give you some more slack in them when dropping the control arms etc when you are pulling the old struts out.

Make sure you get the brake wear sensor bracket and brake lines loose as well I believe all of the brackets are 10mm.

Both sides of the truck need to be lifted off the ground at the same time for this swap just in case you did not know.

It is also a good idea to get the alignment checked at a reputable shop as the geometry of the suspension will have changed to some degree when changing it from stock especially if you are adding lift as I presume you are doing.

Be safe and have fun, if you need any help feel free to ask for pointers.

Cheers

 

Edited by Naughty Donkey Performance
Addl info
Posted

Thank you Naughty Donkey. yes, alignment afterwards. release all other connections for slack. The steering rack tho had me questioning it. RC says it does something to the steering rack when disconnecting the tie rod ends. I`ve never heard that before. I`ll update when I`m finished. Thanks! 😎

  • Like 1
Posted

going to be a delay on the install, heavy work load currently, and NO shop locally will install this for me because I bought the parts... wow... 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Pale Rider said:

going to be a delay on the install, heavy work load currently, and NO shop locally will install this for me because I bought the parts... wow... 

I live in SE PA, and every shop around me is the same way.  It's such a PITA.

Posted

I installed new springs and shocks on my front suspension and never disconnected the battery for anything.  Removing the UCA doesn't require it either as far as I know, so I am not sure why its requested during the install process.  During the install process you WILL remove the tie rod from the knuckle, but it bolts directly back up with no adjustments so I am uncertain of what that has to do with anything either.  A suspension install on this vehicle is very straight forward and easy to do with no adjustments necessary other than an alignment (or GM programming if you feel the need for it, which an overwhelming majority don't).

Posted (edited)
On 10/25/2022 at 11:24 AM, Pale Rider said:

Hello Folks, been awhile, boating season is over here, except for another sbc engine build. Gives me a bit of time to focus on the Silverado.

A few questions for you good people: 

I am installing a set of loaded front struts, and new upper control arms:

 

Why would I need to disconnect the battery for this install? Why would I need to disconnect all 3 connectors for the electric steering rack?

Now what exactly happens later when you disconnect the battery on these new vehicles? Will I lose my radio settings or need a code to turn it back on. 

Ive done many suspension upgrades on other vehicles, just not a newer 2019 Silverado LT.

Thank you in advance!

You can do the install yourself in an afternoon.  Its a very simple and straightforward install that can be completed with a jack, a deep socket set, and a torque wrench.

Edited by Gangly
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Gangly said:

You can do the install yourself in an afternoon.  Its a very simple and straightforward install that can be completed with a jack, a deep socket set, and a torque wrench.

I agree and then you will know it is done properly, most "mechanics" these days are not professionals if you do find one they are very valuable and very busy.

A jack, 2 safety stands, an allen wrench set, a deep socket set, aforementioned 10mm, torque wrench and a few hours and you are good to go and saving hundreds.

Edited by Naughty Donkey Performance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I went to order some PF63 oil filters from an on line GM parts source, and the blue PF63 oil filters seem to be getting phased out. They show the new part number as 19363567, which is a black colored AC Delco Silver product apparently marked PF63A. Some sites show a part number 12693541, which is a black colored AC Delco Ultragard Gold filter marked UPF63R.    I assume the UPF63R is the better one, but I’d be happy if I could just get blue PF63 filters I’ve been using.    Can anyone explain what is going on with the filter part number changes and any actual design changes?  Any other advice on buying OEM filters right now?  Thanks 
    • thanks for coming back and posting what the fix turned out to be.
    • Only TAN I have for the product was at 5K in service miles and it was 2.71
    • If anyone lands here looking for an update - the problem wasnt with the hose, the clamp, etc... I purchased a metal Thermostat housing that just must not of been made to spec. It just wouldn't plug up the hose.. Went back to a plastic cheap housing - leak fixed. Some plumbers tape carefully placed in tandem with a clamp likely would've gotten the job done.   Best,
    • For anyone following, this is what I have deduced from this forum - and my very specific niche case. Please do let me know if you see me going in the wrong direction here. For context, I have a 16 sierra 1500 w/t. Has TC and Cargo light switches. Removed the switch to find the X1 and X2 of the S48A connection populated with wires (x1 10-14, and x2 1-5).   Took photos of the X61A-X5 to find the wires from S48A-X1 land here at their respective pins (10, 11, 17, 23 on the X5). Was hopeful that this means my X51A fuse box has the appropriate pins... No cigar. So now I will be routing wires from the rear of the X61A-X1 to the engine bay and to their respective negative relay triggers. Please see to the diagram. If any has insight as to where the S48A-X2 pins 4 and 5 land that would be awesome.   Will be attempting this sometime shortly and will likely make a youtube video out of it.   Note: please disregard fuse sizes. Main fuse will likely be 25A, all mini bus fuses will likely be 10-15A.   Here is my parts list: GM 84347199 - TC, Cargo Light, Exhaust Brake (useless to me unless I find a means to reconfigure), Aux 1 - 4. 12V 6 Way Pre-Wired Fuse Relay Box Kit with 4 x 40A 4-Pin Relays (link below - some mods required to make negative trigger)            https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0F4KCS43B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Various wire sizes (12 AWG - red and black, 14 AWG, 16 AWG multi-colored bundle) Wire termination leads for X61A-X1 (unknown at this time) Crimp connectors/Soldering Gun Heat Shrink Split Wire Loom To be continued...    Cheers
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...