Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I worked at a Chevy dealer a long time ago and I seem to remember a salesman telling me there are two invoices. One to show the customer and the true invoice they kept separate.  I got this inv20230110065018.pdfoice from a dealer and he's telling me his cost is 67278.51. Anyone in the know think this is really his price? Thanks in advance. 

Edited by Lunar68
Posted (edited)

They will NEVER show you the real invoice from the manufacturer. Too many holdbacks and incentives on those. My experience has been that any "invoice" that is shown to a customer is doctored to reflect the dealers cost plus their overhead and whatever profit they build in. Everyone I have known in the business says the same thing. I bought all my vehicles using the GM employee discount, its a fixed price thats non negotiable. 

 

But hey, I am just a random person on the internet, why would you trust me ?  😉

Edited by 64BAwagon
  • Like 1
Posted

I need to look into the legacy employee discount. My Uncle worked for GM for I think 40 years but has passed away. I see there may be a way to still get the employee discount but am not sure how to go about it. Thanks. 

Posted (edited)

Well a few years back I bought a truck that the dealer had to trade to get and since I knew the owner/dealer/salesman and he let me go and get the new GMC because it was going to have to be driven back and I was not willing to let some ahole drive it.. I had all the paperwork and what you show was the ONLY invoice on the vehicle and all the paper work on the business transaction between the 2 dealers reflected the invoice prices. 

 

 

Edited by elcamino
Posted
39 minutes ago, Lunar68 said:

I need to look into the legacy employee discount. My Uncle worked for GM for I think 40 years but has passed away. I see there may be a way to still get the employee discount but am not sure how to go about it. Thanks. 

 

I don't believe you will be eligible. It has to be children once the family member that worked for GM passes. When my grandpa was alive I was able to get that discount, after he passed I lost it but my parents still are able to get it. 

 

I picked up a GM card that I couldn't use earlier with the GM family discount; that gives me 4% on all purchases. In the years since he has passed I have racked up a ton of points and will continue to until it is new truck time in a few years. Would have been nice to combine that with the GM discount (many years ago you could but they stopped that and only have a much less rewarding card now for those with the discount program), but these points will give me a larger discount in the end. 

 

GM Legacy | Family First | GM Vehicle Purchase Program (gmfamilyfirst.com)

 

Tyler

Posted

There's only one invoice price.

 

Incentives are added later.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Lunar68 said:

I worked at a Chevy dealer a long time ago and I seem to remember a salesman telling me there are two invoices. One to show the customer and the true invoice they kept separate.  I got this inv20230110065018.pdfoice from a dealer and he's telling me his cost is 67278.51. Anyone in the know think this is really his price? Thanks in advance. 

 

 

Looks right to me.  You can even see the "less holdback and finance credit" price on there of $63,884.16.

 

You can also see on the right hand side about middle it has "Suppler" and "Employee" pricings.  $66047.05 is Supplier, $63,488.97 is Employee.

 

All of those are before TTL.  Is the price he gave you including TTL?  Or before TTL?

 

If you are eligible for supplier or employee and the dealer is accepting them, then you could get supplier or employee.  

Edited by newdude
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I've seen a paper like that before. I was looking at a truck and was told what the numbers on it means. I got the info from the only salesmen I've ever trusted. He actually talked me out of buying a truck before.

 

Posted

He wants $67, 765 for his and only offering $36K for my 2019 Trail Boss w 58k miles. Black book shows $40K for trade. I know the market is slowing but I think he's too low on trade. I'll keep looking. May head to LTZ or RST with the LZO. 

Posted
7 hours ago, Lunar68 said:

He wants $67, 765 for his and only offering $36K for my 2019 Trail Boss w 58k miles. Black book shows $40K for trade. I know the market is slowing but I think he's too low on trade. I'll keep looking. May head to LTZ or RST with the LZO. 

Try carmax in your area and see what they offer for your truck. We took them my wifes old traverse when we got her new one last year. I looked at the offer online and printed the offer number. We were only at the dealer about and hour and were driving off with a check to get her new one. Easiest I've ever sold or traded a car.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...