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Posted

I am dropping the transmission on a 2016 z71 4x4 diesel and am hitting some roadblocks. Torque converter went bad at 90k, goal is to just change it, transmission seems ok still. I have the service manual, and all has been fine up to the point of pulling the starter.

It is billed as a 1.8hr job, but is also stated as requiring pulling a motor mount to get it out. I will ALMOST fit without removing it- 1/4” would do it. The motor mount requires pulling the steering shaft, which I would prefer to avoid. I can get most of the bolts loose, but two of the lowers are well hidden. Absolutely no way it’s 1.8hr with the motor mount. 

Has anybody done the starter replacement one and might have some insight? Or the whole thing. There is bizarrely little info out about thee diesel specifically. The rest, I think I’ve got a handle on, but this is proving to be a big pain.

Posted

Warranty time is 3.0for the starter.  Trans R and R is 12.1.The worst part of that whole job is the convertor bolts. I am the transmission guy at a GMC Buick dealer and have done a few of those. I hate that truck!!!

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, Delta456 said:

So they’re right with the removal of the front left motor mount then? No trick for slipping the starter out?

 

 

Correct.  

Posted

Thanks. We shall see then. 
 

As far as glitter, there was a bit, fluid looked dark. We bought it with 80k on it, and I’m fairly certain it’s never been changed. 
 

The transmission isn’t very available right now, that has been part of the not changing it logic, and cost. 

Posted
5 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

Correct.  


Thanks. Any tricks or tips with it? Or it’s just a PITA? I’ve done a few, this one is the worst for sure, nobody around here wanted to work on it either. I get why. 

 

5 hours ago, It's Tim said:

How much glitter is in the pan?

Do you have experience with one/ think we should be doing it too?

  • 7 months later...
Posted

I found a trick for sliding the starter out and the new one in in about 30 minutes. If you remove the stud above the starter that secures the metal lines in place and remove the dipstick tube there is just enough room. You will have to be very careful of the rubber hoses above the starter and will need a small port bar about 2 feet long. You have to wiggle the starter out, by raising the back end of the starter left, up and towards you. Also you have to twist the starter so the solenoid clears the motor mount. Then use the pry bar for the last 1/8 inch to make the noise come clear. Opposite to go back in. 

  • 8 months later...
Posted
On 9/17/2023 at 6:39 AM, tragson3 said:

I found a trick for sliding the starter out and the new one in in about 30 minutes. If you remove the stud above the starter that secures the metal lines in place and remove the dipstick tube there is just enough room. You will have to be very careful of the rubber hoses above the starter and will need a small port bar about 2 feet long. You have to wiggle the starter out, by raising the back end of the starter left, up and towards you. Also you have to twist the starter so the solenoid clears the motor mount. Then use the pry bar for the last 1/8 inch to make the noise come clear. Opposite to go back in. 

Im sorry but no. I removed the engine and had it on a stand. you cannot remove the starter this way. It is not 1/8 short. You have to removed the starter, mount, mount bracket and loosen the steering shaft. When you have the mount out, grind the shout outta it and the next starter will go much easier. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 9/17/2023 at 7:39 AM, tragson3 said:

I found a trick for sliding the starter out and the new one in in about 30 minutes. If you remove the stud above the starter that secures the metal lines in place and remove the dipstick tube there is just enough room. You will have to be very careful of the rubber hoses above the starter and will need a small port bar about 2 feet long. You have to wiggle the starter out, by raising the back end of the starter left, up and towards you. Also you have to twist the starter so the solenoid clears the motor mount. Then use the pry bar for the last 1/8 inch to make the noise come clear. Opposite to go back in. 

 

So I actually just came up with the exact same strategy as trason3 here, then found this forum while googling keywords for the video I made doing it. I can confirm it works perfectly and will link the repair video I made doing so. Wish I would have seen this before buddy, I did way too much staring trying to figure it out lolol. 

 

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