Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone installed 5100's along with a level kit?  If so, how did it work out and what circlip setting did you use?  I've got a 1.75 Zone level w/upper control arms installed and now wanting to upgrade shocks.  I assume there are no issues if you use the stock setting but what if you used the middle or high?  Would that net additional lift but cause too much stress on other components?  I was thinking of using the middle setting that gives ~1/2" so would my total come out to 2.25?  Just not sure how that math actually works out.  Thanks guys!

Posted

You would get additional lift. It would increase operating angle of the lower ball joint and CV-shafts they would be operating out side of their designed parameters and the result is usually decreased service life. 

 

The aftermarket upper control arms might rectify the upper ball joint angles, and increase suspension down travel to make up for the taller strut assembly moving the suspension geometry closer to the droop limit. 

 

If the aftermarket upper control arms DO NOT fix those, then the upper ball joint would be subject to the same limitations as the lower ball joint - reduced service life from operating outside the design parameters. Additionally, the ride would suffer by hitting the droop stops prematurely in the suspension cycle.

Posted (edited)

What is a zone level? Is it a just a spacer? If so, remove the spacer and set the 5100's to 1.5 or 2" lift and install. 

 

What model truck do you have? Is it a Trail Boss or RST/LT/Custom?

 

Edited by Diamond817
Posted (edited)
On 4/12/2023 at 2:35 PM, asilverblazer said:

You would get additional lift. It would increase operating angle of the lower ball joint and CV-shafts they would be operating out side of their designed parameters and the result is usually decreased service life. 

 

The aftermarket upper control arms might rectify the upper ball joint angles, and increase suspension down travel to make up for the taller strut assembly moving the suspension geometry closer to the droop limit. 

 

If the aftermarket upper control arms DO NOT fix those, then the upper ball joint would be subject to the same limitations as the lower ball joint - reduced service life from operating outside the design parameters. Additionally, the ride would suffer by hitting the droop stops prematurely in the suspension cycle.

Guys with Trail Boss models put 2" leveling kits in them all the time without any issues. That equals 4" of total front end lift over the RST. The Trail Boss and RST/LT use the same upper and lower control arms, ball joints etc. Look under a TB if you get a chance  the control arms are just about level, there is nothing extreme about the angles. 

The CV shafts on the TB are different/longer. If going more than 2" lift/level on the RST/LT you should get the TB CV's. 

Edited by Diamond817
Posted

Funny enough, I just had this accidentally done to my truck over the weekend. I paid a shop to install the 5100s and they kept my 1.5” level blocks in place, even though I told them to remove. I used highest clip setting on the shocks for the 2” level. I went back and had the shop remove the level blocks. The truck had a slight squat so I didn’t want to keep that look. But if you get a 1.5-2” block in the rear it would look better. Since I have 22” wheels, my tires look so small so not a fan of the look with the truck higher. 

IMG_9977.jpeg

Posted
5 hours ago, Diamond817 said:

Guys with Trail Boss models put 2" leveling kits in them all the time without any issues.

...yet... However, no one will ever have enough data to know how much is too much and at what rate.

 

5 hours ago, Diamond817 said:

The Trail Boss and RST/LT use the same upper and lower control arms, ball joints etc.

I thought the TB had different upper control arms, but I might be making that up. 

 

5 hours ago, Diamond817 said:

That equals 4" of total front end lift over the RST.

That's more than I would do. With out a different upper control arm there is no way the ride is not compromised. They would almost certainly have to be riding on the droop stops. 

Posted
6 hours ago, Diamond817 said:

What is a zone level? Is it a just a spacer? If so, remove the spacer and set the 5100's to 1.5 or 2" lift and install. 

 

What model truck do you have? Is it a Trail Boss or RST/LT/Custom?

 

My Zone level uses preload spacers and a top spacer to get the lift, similar to the Readylift SST.  I'm considering removing the preload spacer then circlip on #2 or #3  on the Bilstein 5100's to make up that lift.

Posted (edited)
On 4/17/2023 at 3:34 AM, Diamond817 said:

Guys with Trail Boss models put 2" leveling kits in them all the time without any issues. That equals 4" of total front end lift over the RST. The Trail Boss and RST/LT use the same upper and lower control arms, ball joints etc. Look under a TB if you get a chance  the control arms are just about level, there is nothing extreme about the angles. 

The CV shafts on the TB are different/longer. If going more than 2" lift/level on the RST/LT you should get the TB CV's. 

 

They have problems, shoot auto 4wd doesn't work with some of those kits. Stacking kits is never a good idea. Some don't have issues that they share or know about, they will still wear out parts sooner in the long run and have other handling/driving characteristic issues that are more an annoyance than an issue... Not sure why someone would want to do this, it is the equivalent of cutting your springs to drop, just the cheap and incorrect way of doing it that causes more harm than good. Pictures show they have some good angles, not extreme but not good for longevity either. I don't know about you, but I don't care to replace front end parts before 100k if I don't have to. 

 

Trail Boss Leveling with Diff Drop? | Chevy Trail Boss Forum

 

Tyler

Edited by Amcguy1970
Posted
On 4/17/2023 at 9:52 AM, David Sherill said:

My Zone level uses preload spacers and a top spacer to get the lift, similar to the Readylift SST.  I'm considering removing the preload spacer then circlip on #2 or #3  on the Bilstein 5100's to make up that lift.

 

How did this end up?  I've got a set of 5100s with the Bilstein B8 UCAs waiting for for install.  I'd really like to get closer to 2" of lift in the front (with a little rake) and have considered stacking.  Trying to determine if this puts anything in a bind or at unacceptable levels and which spacer (top vs bottom) has the least amount of downside.

Would love to see some after pics and what you ended up with lift wise. Thanks!

Posted

I ended up using the stock setting on the Bilstein's so no change other than the shocks.  Wasn't comfortable trying something that most recommended not to do.  I also called Zone and asked their opinion and was told they don't test with anything other than stock shocks so they couldn't give a solid answer.  I don't see why it wouldn't work, but again wasn't a chance I was willing to take.

  • 10 months later...
Posted
On 4/28/2023 at 10:21 AM, David Sherill said:

I ended up using the stock setting on the Bilstein's so no change other than the shocks.  Wasn't comfortable trying something that most recommended not to do.  I also called Zone and asked their opinion and was told they don't test with anything other than stock shocks so they couldn't give a solid answer.  I don't see why it wouldn't work, but again wasn't a chance I was willing to take.

 

Update.  I ended up going through some trial and error, but finally got everything installed and I think i'm to a stable point with the truck.

I ended up grabbing a set of Bilstein 5100s and a set of their B8 Upper Control Arms (very nice kit btw).  Huge upgrade in both ride quality and handling even with the additional ride height.  Even if you're not using the "lift" settings (BTW in previous versions of the 5100s there were 4 different height settings to choose from.  These only have 3 and IMO the settings are too far apart to be helpful for my situation) the 5100s are a huge upgrade over the Ranchos.  Unfortunately, I did not get the advertised 1.1" of lift at the highest setting.  I saw a gain of 7/8" and 15/16" in the front, which is close but also sucks b/c the truck sat level from side to side with the OEM struts / shocks.  The rear a tiny increase in height of 1/8" and 1/16".  

 

I tossed a set of BFG KO2 tires in a 295/70/18 (~34" tire) and had a small amount of rubbing.  I don't tolerate rubbing tires and wasn't interested in trimming, so I grabbed a ReadyLift 1.5" lift for the non AT4 Sierras to stack on top of the 5100s.  

 

With the 5100 and RL 1.5" lift combo I ended up with a level truck and 2 9/16" and 2 3/8" of lift in the front over stock.  There is no zero rubbing in any circumstance (I tried to get it to rub) and the truck still aligns to factory settings with very little force required during reinstall.  Nothing looks to be in a bind, steering effort is low, axle angles look happy, and ride has been minimally impacted.  

This seems to be a non typical, but good combination to level the truck and the 5100s provide superior handling and ride even with larger / heavier tires.  The longer shocks seem to take the place of the lower spacer w/o the negative side effects.

Posted

It's not recommended to stack leveling kits. In this case you would be stacking the bilstein level with a spacer level. This would have detrimental effects on your ride quality and longevity of suspension components.

 

Others have tried this and have regretted it.

Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, fondupot said:

It's not recommended to stack leveling kits. In this case you would be stacking the bilstein level with a spacer level. This would have detrimental effects on your ride quality and longevity of suspension components.

 

Others have tried this and have regretted it.

 

The effect of stacking kits in my case mirrors the ReadyLift and other 2.5" lifts.  However instead of the lower spacer you get the same effect from the longer strut.  It has not resulted in any noticeable stiffness in the front and the ride improvement from the 5100s is significant.

Edited by DrNick
Posted
1 hour ago, fondupot said:

It's not recommended to stack leveling kits. In this case you would be stacking the bilstein level with a spacer level. This would have detrimental effects on your ride quality and longevity of suspension components.

 

Others have tried this and have regretted it.

His use of alternate upper control arms has likely been the key to preserving a reasonable ride quality. 

 

This might also preserve the life span of the upper ball joints. 

 

Lower ball joints will have a decreased life span, by how much is debatable.

 

Same goes for cv-shafts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,271 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...