Jump to content

2009 6.2L Engine knocking.

Shaun Toole
 Share

Recommended Posts

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Get a mechanics stethoscope, have a listen at valve covers, oil pan.

  • Like 2
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
On 5/27/2023 at 6:12 PM, swathdiver said:

 

Fellas, should he do a compression test first?  Inspect the plugs first and do a compression test.

 

 

That and a leakdown

 

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
On 5/27/2023 at 6:12 PM, swathdiver said:

 

Fellas, should he do a compression test first?  Inspect the plugs first and do a compression test.

 

 

That and a leakdown

 

  • Like 2
Shaun Toole Enthusiast

Shaun Toole

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/26/2023 at 3:39 PM, newdude said:

That sounds like a broken valve spring or a shot cam.  

 

Or its a rod about ready to depart the block.

 

Either way, time to open it up.  

 

You nailed it on the rod. The bearing was gone on the cylinder I could here the knock the best on.

I have a new question, the crank and rods do not have visible signs of wear fitting metal on metal contact. What I mean by that is the are smooth with no tracking. However, I am noticing where the bearing was shot that the crank has a noticeable step on the compression side and if I didn’t know any better I would assume it was turned that was. 
 

Is it possible to just replace the bearings or do I need a new crankshaft?

IMG_2624.jpeg

IMG_2621.jpeg

IMG_2620.jpeg

  • Like 1
Shaun Toole Enthusiast

Shaun Toole

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/28/2023 at 7:32 AM, diyer2 said:

Get a mechanics stethoscope, have a listen at valve covers, oil pan.

I did use one, the knock only resonated through one cylinder, but all lifters, injectors, and valves were functioning and consistent. I didn’t check the oil pan with it, but did pull it today and it is a rod bearing failure.

  • Like 1
Christopher Strode New Member

Christopher Strode

Posted
Posted

Shaun, Thank you for posting your knocking problem and especially for your follow through.  I am experiencing the same issues.  The video you posted was spot on!  I knew better than trying to drive it but I was just as cautious in running the engine at idle to isolate the sound.  I’m new to the forum and I’m grateful to all who shared their experiences and processes of troubleshooting.  I’ll perform my due diligence and ask in advance for any counsel available.  “Put me in coach!”

  • Like 1
swathdiver Senior Enthusiast

swathdiver

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Shaun Toole said:

I have a new question, the crank and rods do not have visible signs of wear fitting metal on metal contact. What I mean by that is the are smooth with no tracking. However, I am noticing where the bearing was shot that the crank has a noticeable step on the compression side and if I didn’t know any better I would assume it was turned that was. 
 

Is it possible to just replace the bearings or do I need a new crankshaft?

IMG_2624.jpeg

IMG_2621.jpeg

IMG_2620.jpeg

I haven't done a motor in years but a machine shop can tell you whether that can be fixed and run larger bearings to compensate.  Used cranks are plentiful I'm told.

  • Like 1
Shaun Toole Enthusiast

Shaun Toole

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/29/2023 at 5:11 PM, Christopher Strode said:

Shaun, Thank you for posting your knocking problem and especially for your follow through.  I am experiencing the same issues.  The video you posted was spot on!  I knew better than trying to drive it but I was just as cautious in running the engine at idle to isolate the sound.  I’m new to the forum and I’m grateful to all who shared their experiences and processes of troubleshooting.  I’ll perform my due diligence and ask in advance for any counsel available.  “Put me in coach!”

My neighbor worked as a machinist for GM, the other an engineer for them but only on conflicts. This forum has been super helpful to say the least because “just replace it” isn’t helpful on a $6,000 engine. I’ll post a follow up when I get it back together. It’s a very doable project considering I’m doing it on a gravel driveway in 90 degree weather.

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Good Luck Shaun. To be young and determined, that's a good thing.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Keith179
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By Keith179 · Posted

      I’m out of ideas on this truck. 2020 Silverado 1500. 5.3 135,000 miles. Has a p0308 and p050d codes. Smokes From exhaust when cold. Compression test passed. New plugs, wires and coil on cyl 8. Same issue. New coil on 8, no change. Replaced injectors, no change. Bore scope showed oil pooled on the piston after sitting overnight. Pulled head and had machine shop check it out. No cracks. Stem seals looked good, replaced anyways. He also ground valve seats. Put it all back together and still have the same issue. Bore scope shows oil on the piston again. Leaning towards maybe a cracked ring but unsure. Cylinder looked good when the head was off, no scoring or scratches. Any ideas on what else I should look for?  Appreciate the help 
    • HeronLeal
      2021 Silverado 2.7L – N232395310 – Can someone with GM dealer access check my VIN?

      By HeronLeal · Posted

      Just want to make sure it is covered by Special Coverage N232395310 Evaporative Emission Purge Pump 2021 Silverado 1500 Custom 2.7L L3B ~100k miles I'm getting DTCs P146B and P146F. VIN 3GCPWBEK2MGxxxxxx   I spoke to a person that works at GM and he said it is not covered after checking my VIN.   Is there anyone here who currently works for a GM/Chevrolet dealership and has access to GM Global Warranty Management / Investigate Vehicle History who could explain how the VIN eligibility is determined?   thank you    
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Thanks for all that information, I might purchase one and see if it will work for me, if not they may let me return it! Yes for sure the tires are definitely within limit for my truck empty, and when I do tow I'll definitely make sure to raise the rear psi for the amount of weight that's going to be on it.
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Yes exactly, more and more these days people/companies are afraid of liability issues so its easier just to say no rather than risk putting their neck on the line.    I will say with the Autel unit or when I used it last year on my truck, it wasn't like I could choose the 2025 model year or even the 2024 model year as that option was not there to manipulate the placard pressures but had to go back to 2023 or there abouts and then it showed up as an option, odd but that was how the software was then and I can't say one way or the other now as they throw out updates every so often. I still would talk to your tire dealer though to start with and they may do it for nothing but also they may have a comment on a better unit to purchase. All I know is that one of the large tire shops in my area happens to use these Autel units for their use and set them up to use the wifi and all of that jazz for constant updating because each tire tech has one handed to them by the shop but I just plugged it into my laptop to update it and yes if one is bought it has to be registered so you can get the link to do updates and then the unit has to be updated before its even used. I am not at all techy so it took me a bit but anyway just a heads up for anything you buy, most likely it will need to be connected to a computer to access the internet to have it updated to the latest software version before you can put it to use.   If your truck is near empty, those tire pressures you listed are a very safe upper range pressures to carry the weight, both the front and rear as I know they could be run lower yet with an empty truck. And if its a trailer and not some motorcycle your going to strap onto the front of your truck on a rack, you shouldn't have a need to inflate your front tires if your at 55 front already, its the rear ones that would need more air if you have much hitch weight. 
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Thank you, I'll check that Autel scanner out and see if it will work for me! Ya I can see GM's point of view if they lower the psi set value for someone and the person sell's the truck and the new owner puts the factory tires back on then their could be liability issues cause the psi warning light wasn't coming on when the tires were under inflated for towing their load and then it might be able to be traced back to GM lowering it.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...