Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I’ve got a 2024 Silverado 2500 Custom with multiflex tailgate.  Does anyone know if the disable/lockout feature for the upper tailgate is included in all builds?  Mine isn’t working and my local dealer was reluctant to try to repair because they weren’t sure if my truck was supposed to have that option.  I thought all trucks with that tailgate had that feature.  Mine even has the decal next to the tailgate.  

IMG_8670.jpeg

Posted
4 hours ago, Slsl123 said:

I’ve got a 2024 Silverado 2500 Custom with multiflex tailgate.  Does anyone know if the disable/lockout feature for the upper tailgate is included in all builds?  Mine isn’t working and my local dealer was reluctant to try to repair because they weren’t sure if my truck was supposed to have that option.  I thought all trucks with that tailgate had that feature.  Mine even has the decal next to the tailgate.  

IMG_8670.jpeg

I'm sure you already tried, but just to make sure, are you holding your key fob right next to the button when holding it for the 7 seconds?

  • Like 1
Posted

I have not heard of any of those tailgates from 2022 and on not having the disable feature, and that sticker seems like confirmation you have the feature.  

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Mine needed a software update at the dealer (likely can be done over the air like normal too, not sure) until it worked for my 2022.

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine didn't work at first, until I placed key fob right next to button.  Hold button until tail lights flash three times. Worked great!

Posted

I believe the lockout is only trucks with the keyless entry(buttons on the door handles). To my understanding it doesn't have the antenna in the rear that it would need detect the key.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 536 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...