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Disconnect Center Stack Tailgate Button


MrLeadFoot

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I'm not using anything, because I am not trying to stop my button from working. I was just trying to come up with an idea that might work for you.

What I was suggesting was to take a short piece of L-shaped plastic, aligning it so that one of the flats was on top, and the other is facing you. Then sliding it under the button such that the top is contacting the bottom of the button, and the side facing you is contacting the trim. It's only L-shaped with you view it from the end. Oriented as I'm suggesting you can't see the shape, and can only see the top and front of it.

If you experiment with pieces of plastic you could even end up with a piece that has it's inside surfaces pressed or fastened against the bottom of the button and the outside lip of the button, essentially oriented 180° opposite from the first suggestion. This orientation might even work better because the "leg" of the outside L could be just wide (tall), enough to cover the outside lip of the button, and the bottom of the L could be just wide enough to extend under the button and prevent it from being pushed down (because downward force would bump it up against the trim under the center stack). A judicious application of superglue on the inside of the L would then attach it to the button's outside lip and underside.

There. Clear as mud? :)

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I'm not using anything, because I am not trying to stop my button from working. 

I was actually referring to the display you mentioned that you used to use to monitor your trailer tire pressure. Since the new truck has that capability already built in, you don't need that thing anymore, so I was joking that you could send me the mount you made for that display you had mounted.

 

In any event, how about something like this?

 

 

ButtonStopper.JPG

image.gif

Edited by MrLeadFoot
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My apologies. It was @ExYukon who had the trailer tire pressure monitor. I got confused when you posted you weren't using anything to make the button not work. 

 

In any event, what I was trying to say before was that anything wedged between the bottom of the button and the trim will not work, because when you push down on the button, the wedge just flexes the entire trim piece downward, and because the button only needs to move downward a couple of millimeters, if that, the tailgate latch gets triggered. So anything you suggested won't work. I think the only way to make a physical "blocker" work from below the button is to do something like I showed in my my drawing. Not to say that your suggestions aren't welcome, I sure do appreciate the effort because without all the suggestions I would never have thought to use something that's fashioned more like a brace below the button. 

 

That said, perhaps a bead of silicone caulking would work put ABOVE the button right where the button meets the trim, but that would be more noticeable, and I'm not sure if the chemical properties of the caulking would mar the button and trim if you later remove it. 

 

Since the angle of the button in relation to the trim below it is nowhere close to a right angle, I'm going to take a piece of malleable aluminum and see if if I can simply bend something into that angle and tape it to the bottom trim, as I depicted. If it works, I will make it as small as possible and paint it black so you can't see it, and adhere it with something strong enough for the job, yet easily removable, so you won't easily be able to see anything was even there upon removal of it. 

Edited by MrLeadFoot
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Well, looks like I have a real good working prototype, the keyword being "working"!

 

I took an old garage door opener clip, the kind that's designed to slip onto a sun visor and already has some bends in it, and cut it down to the length I needed. I modified the bend to be more like 30 degrees so the top plane runs alongside the bottom of the button and the plane going downwards follows the slight contour of the lower trim piece. Nice thing is that the piece is a thin chromed piece of steel (I think), so it actually looks good because it kind of matches the interior. For now, I have 3M tape on both planes, so it sticks to the lower trim and the bottom of the button. Not sure how it will hold up in the heat of summer, but if the "support" continues to work as it has so far, but 3M tape fails, I will silicone caulk it instead, because if even if the caulking leaves a light mark after being removed, you won't see it since it's all under the center stack.

 

The pic below was taken from as low an angle as I could get so you can make out the entire piece. Sitting in the driver's seat, you can barely tell anything is there, even though I purposely positioned it in a manner that I can see the front edge of it under the button, so I can keep an eye on it during this "beta test" period. For example, I want to know by looking at it once in a while to see if it shifts or whatever, but so far, so good.

 

I have not pushed down on it very hard yet because I don't want to compromise the integrity of the tape adhesive until it cures, especially since I removed it twice without replacing the tape while initially positioning it, but I've tested it with enough pressure that causes all the other buttons to depress, and the support appears to be doing its job and preventing the button from moving. I've simulated a bump of it, and the button isn't moving then either. I am confident that if I used slicone caulking it would hold more tightly than the 3M tape, but if I don't end up having to use caulking, even better.

1015231559a.jpg

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Hey, that's great. Could you post a picture from the bottom side? Hard to see what you did there. Also, since you have a console your trim is different than mine, which would explain why you didn't "see" things as I was describing them, and visa versa. Good job on your solution though!

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I didn't know some models don't have the same "console".

 

This is the lowest I can get my phone to take a pic. You can see the tape adhering the "device" to the button. In addition to the piece of tape running down the other plane of the "device" and attaching to the lower trim, this piece on top is absolutely crucial, because without that piece of tape, upon pushing the button down, the buttons slides backwards along the top plane of the "device" towards the console. This action pushes the "device" downward which, in turn, flexes the trim below and the button moves enough to trigger the latch.

 

1015231559.jpg

Edited by MrLeadFoot
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I have the 60/40 split in my truck. It's actually two buckets with a middle seat between them. My shifter is on the column. So my setup is different than yours and the trim looks different (to me). I think you're issue would have been a bit more straightforward to solve than it was on your truck.

This picture is not of my truck, but is identical to what mine looks like.

 

interiorCenter.jpg

 

This one below is of my truck and shows the difference from yours a bit better though the area where you needed the fix is not as clear.

 

interiorWheel.jpg

Edited by TrueBlue
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I'm in and out of that cubby everytime the truck is driven with my wife as that's where the handicapped parking hanger is stored. I can see how all those buttons could be hit accidentally. Never has happened for me or my wife (she needs the hanger). You haven't turned on anything else, like 4 ways or windows? 

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  • 2 months later...
On 10/19/2023 at 3:00 AM, Jus Cruisin said:

I'm in and out of that cubby everytime the truck is driven with my wife as that's where the handicapped parking hanger is stored. I can see how all those buttons could be hit accidentally. Never has happened for me or my wife (she needs the hanger). You haven't turned on anything else, like 4 ways or windows? 

Sure I have, but the worst that happens is the windows open a little, and maybe you let some rain in. But, drop the tailgate while backed into a space and you just permanently damaged your tailgate! I can think of many different situations where you could easily damage your tailgate inadvertently, but that's never going to happen to me now. 😉

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3 hours ago, switch_skibum said:

I still think there’s a single pin that could be removed to disable/modify this switch. I want a switch to switch this DUMBASS switch 

I agree, but I didn't want to go through the process of dismantling everything on a "maybe". Let me know if you figure something out. In the meantime, my tailgate button "splint" is working for me. But, when temps here hit the 100s we'll see how good the 3M adhesive holds up.

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